CHECK THIS OUT: Crank Pulley gone bad
CHECK THIS OUT: Crank Pulley gone bad
SO I have an MCS 2006 with NO mods what so ever. It has 63K miles on it. I would drive the car and it would go in LIMP mode. So I would start the car and try to listen and I would here a lump on the passenger side. so I pulled the belt and check the crank pulley. it was free and spinning with put the balancer. here are some pics.
tell me your thought on why and what happened.

CHECK OUT MY GALLERY. IT HAS THE PIC

tell me your thought on why and what happened.
CHECK OUT MY GALLERY. IT HAS THE PIC
Last edited by timmyz1963; Aug 15, 2009 at 08:26 PM. Reason: pic pointing
Light weight aftermarket pulleys fail often too...esp when there are engine mods. Basically, the light weight spokes can't take the punishment.......
A club member I know found this recently: http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...ts/dammini.htm

And a OEM Stock Pulley mfg in the 2005/2006 MCS is much better than the one in earlier models, it's three pounds lighter too and looks very much like the one above.
A club member I know found this recently: http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...ts/dammini.htm

And a OEM Stock Pulley mfg in the 2005/2006 MCS is much better than the one in earlier models, it's three pounds lighter too and looks very much like the one above.
Yikes, I just installed an 05/06 damper on my 03 yesterday. Didn't know ATI made a damper, thanks for that info. I'll have to look up my old buddy who was a machinist there.
In the Drag world ATI has a solid reputation.
OP, guess you figured out why the AC wasn't working.
In the Drag world ATI has a solid reputation.
OP, guess you figured out why the AC wasn't working.
put me down as mad as hell ; i got a 05 pulley from web (used) at a great price last yr. and it's going the way of the playing card in the spokes deal . maybe it was two yrs ago, lol but still it didn't last long . thx for info on ati .
That's what mine sounds like!!
Last edited by Motor On; Sep 25, 2009 at 02:49 PM.
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Mine went in the 50s and my wife's just went at 66K miles. WTH? I have never had a pulley go bad like this and with so few miles! MINI charged us $440 for the pulley and another 300+ for install! What is the cost of the ATI?
How do you know when the crank pulley is going? Is that possibly the squeak I'm beginning to hear when the engine goes below idle, i.e. when I let out the clutch in 1st gear or when the engine kicks over?
With the early model damper it starts with a rattle noise as the damper body touches the cam chain cover at idle or low rpm; that is if the luck is with you. Here’s a way to tell if the early model damper is failing, remove tension from the belt, remove the lower splash shield (or the wheel well cover), grasp the crankshaft pulley between thumb and forefinger and wiggle, if it touches the cam chain cover (ding, ding), it’s begun to separate at the backside or lost its elasticity; in either case it’s not damping anymore. If it will move while pressing with the heal of a hand, it’s on its way out.
I don’t feel comfortable with that, but I also feel squeamish about striking the extractor bolt on a puller when the pulley is stuck; sometimes it must be done, but if it’s not required, don’t.
my crank pulley is on its way out - think it may be causing a rattle that ive got (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JasoHbWGmBM) so will be getting a new crank pulley done soon (may also be a timing chain tensioner so that will probably get done at the same time if its worn) but am hoping the ATI will be the way to go 
Im a JCW owner so a +2% version would provide a bonus of some extra power too :D

Im a JCW owner so a +2% version would provide a bonus of some extra power too :D
my crank pulley is on its way out - think it may be causing a rattle that ive got (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JasoHbWGmBM) so will be getting a new crank pulley done soon (may also be a timing chain tensioner so that will probably get done at the same time if its worn) but am hoping the ATI will be the way to go 
Im a JCW owner so a +2% version would provide a bonus of some extra power too :D

Im a JCW owner so a +2% version would provide a bonus of some extra power too :D
I don't think they always make a noise. I've had a couple customers that never noticed noise, only the burning rubber smell. I've just been replacing them with the ATI dampers.
I don't think they always make a noise. I've had a couple customers that never noticed noise, only the burning rubber smell. I've just been replacing them with the ATI dampers.
When you say "playing card in the spokes", are you referring to the sound? That could explain the fluttering sound Im getting. One more thing to check when I replace the belt.
That could very well be the sound. Even if you can't physically move the damper with your hands, it could still be bad. Mine felt very solid but I replaced it with the ATI anyways and the flutter is now gone.
Make sure the fluttering isn't "normal" flywheel chatter by pushing in the clutch when you hear it. The Supercharger death rattle starts out sounding like that too.
Definitely going to the ATI 2% on both cars in the future—16%+2%+stage 2 meth injection=loads of fun.
One thing I've noticed (anecdotally through conversations with several others and personal experience) the non-damped pulley might lead to premature supercharger death. I'll know for sure when I pull mine apart and see what the damage is and how it appears to have been caused.
The supercharger is belt driven directly off the crank pulley which stock is 2 pieces of metal with an elastomer between them absorbing radial loads caused by changes in rpm. The faster the change the harder the shock. It makes some sense that a system that does nothing to absorb violent rotational shock will wear components faster along the line (like the non-metal coupler that is what usually goes in the s/c).
In the case of my car I got the death rattle approximately 30% sooner than most stock cars get it. By amazing coincidence that is the percentage over stock I was spinning my supercharger pulley-undamped.
The cost of a rebuild is between $900-1300 with a refurbished unit from MINI running $1600 and new $1800. My s/c went at just about 76000 miles of very hard undamped driving. $1300 every 75000 miles is a very inexpensive repair to driving time ratio ($13 every 750 miles). Don't let this post scare you if you have or want an undamped pulley. I'm just a cheap scotsman who wants that ratio at $13 every 1000 miles.
Definitely going to the ATI 2% on both cars in the future—16%+2%+stage 2 meth injection=loads of fun.
One thing I've noticed (anecdotally through conversations with several others and personal experience) the non-damped pulley might lead to premature supercharger death. I'll know for sure when I pull mine apart and see what the damage is and how it appears to have been caused.
The supercharger is belt driven directly off the crank pulley which stock is 2 pieces of metal with an elastomer between them absorbing radial loads caused by changes in rpm. The faster the change the harder the shock. It makes some sense that a system that does nothing to absorb violent rotational shock will wear components faster along the line (like the non-metal coupler that is what usually goes in the s/c).
In the case of my car I got the death rattle approximately 30% sooner than most stock cars get it. By amazing coincidence that is the percentage over stock I was spinning my supercharger pulley-undamped.
The cost of a rebuild is between $900-1300 with a refurbished unit from MINI running $1600 and new $1800. My s/c went at just about 76000 miles of very hard undamped driving. $1300 every 75000 miles is a very inexpensive repair to driving time ratio ($13 every 750 miles). Don't let this post scare you if you have or want an undamped pulley. I'm just a cheap scotsman who wants that ratio at $13 every 1000 miles.
I've just been replacing them with the ATI dampers.
I've just been replacing them with the ATI dampers.
I understand that in conjunction with a JCW supercharger pulley a +1% ATI crank equates to roughly a 13.25% overall equivalent reduction on the Sc while a +2% works out at roughly a 16% reduction on the SC.... thought that may help put it in context....
If it is the SC then its the second time it will have failed. First time is sucked some black gunk through the intake...Ferman "replaced". Sounds like it can only be the Sc or the crank pulley. It will get checked this weekend when I change the Sc belt.
Thanks!
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