OK So I just ordered my F&R Green stuff pads and and my EBC Rotors + F&R Sensors. I ordered my Haynes manual. I know I need a caliper spreader so I am going to pep boys later. Anything I need to know or get before I start.

Any advice or words of wisdom?

 

There is an excellent illustrated how-to on both front brake and rear brake R&R on this website. Do a search, print it off, and you won't even need the Haynes. You'll find it a rewarding experience. I did find when I replaced my OEM pads with Green Stuff pads, the brake dust was just as bad.

 

A can of PB Blaster to soak those pesky front rotor Torx retaining screws.
They can be a PITA to remove.

Cheers!
Jim

 

take your time and make sure the rear inside pad clips on all 3 sides to the piston.

 

here's the instructions:
nice write up with pictures.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...beginners.html

 

Getting the rear piston to retract can be a PITA. Might want to read up around here a little on it just so you are prepared.

 

You need the type spreader that rotates as it compresses The rear piston WILL NOT compress without rotating....and yes I found this out the hard way.

 

and a T-50 TORX for the rotors

 

Here's some additional info on the back brakes that may help. It's part 2 of BEAVR's link.

 

Can't stress that enough. I had some work done (coilovers) on my car at the shop, usually I do my own brake stuff but since they had the tires off, I had them slide in my track pads. Only they just set them in, they didn't clip them on the piston. The rears kept seizing, not good, but I finally figured it out before hitting the track.

If you've never clipped them in, and have the type with the wire clips (not the ones shown in the above link), slide them from directly on top of the piston on down--won't work very well any other way, especially from the side. Only reason why I mention this is it seems intuitively obvious, when you see the pad, but I've seen people struggle with rear pad changes more than once on the track, trying to slide the pad in from the side instead of from the top.

As for retracting the piston, the harbor frieght tool works well if you can get one, although it can be done with a c-clamp as well.

 

A few years ago, I bought a "Disc Brake Piston Tool" from KD Tools, Danaher Tool Group, 805 Estelle Drive, P.O. Box 3767, Lancaster, PA 17604-3767 for the specific purpose of rotating the rear piston inward on my 1997 Acura. I just used the tool on my 2009 Clubbie S and it worked beautifully. My recollection is that it was inexpensive and is designed to be used on multiple cars. Good luck!

 

Is that harbor took brake caliper compression the one that compresses the rear caliper? Anything cheaper? Can I get one at pepboys?

Does anyone in Broward, fl have one to borrow for the day?

 

new HF in DelRay Beach .....

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...l_Store_ID=316

many part stores have a tool that will work that they will loan ... I've only used the HF tool however

 

Just take your time on the rears. I was so pissed because I couldn't get them to go back in. After an hour and a half of sweat, bloody knuckles and lots of salty language, it went in and it took less than 15 min to get the other rear side done.

A T50? I just used a 1/4 and a Dewalt cordless. If it's seized, drill it out, it won't hurt anything.

Be sure to use a Brillo pad with warm soap and water on the rotors. Then be sure to wash off any of the natural oils from your hands off the pads and rotors with brake cleaner.

Finally, for the first couple of days, I'd recommend you take it easy on the brakes. If you warp them now, all that time and money will be wasted. I try not to hold the brake pedal when the brakes are warm/hot. For example, try not to sit at a stop light holding the brake pedal. I even refrained from using the park brake after I did my brakes. Although your greenstuffs will probably break-in quicker than my Yellows did. I've always heard 30 stops from 30mph.

 

First time, I borrowed the tool from O'reilly's Auto-Parts. The next time I'd been to a Harbor Freight and got my own...around $20 if I remember right. I've used it on several different cars now so it is worth the purchase.

 

Yes, the harborfrieght tool is for the rear caliper, and you can get them cheap. As metioned, it's worth the money; it comes with multiple adapters, so it can be used on many different vehicles besides the MINI.

 

heres some adive I didnt see anyone else say, change your brake fluid... ATE superblue is a good choice.

 

Nobody has mentioned the obvious thing- GET GLOVES. I've done brakes without them, and you'll NEVER get your hands clean again...

 

Did It. Now I cab stop the car. I got the harbor freight caliper too. I did front and rears for less than the local guy wanted for fronts. I messed up the front sensor. But O well. Now I have brakeing power. Thank you all for the help.

 

So I started this job today but stopped when I tried to get the rotor retaining bolt out with a 6mm hex key. Started to strip it and thats when i stopped and put back the assembly. In researching is how i came across this thread and discovered I should have used a t-50 torx So now i have called my buddy who works at a Mini dealer and he says he will do the job for me plus a whole of other stuff i need. Total labor for Power steering pump replacement, front&back rotors and pads, control arm bushing replacement + coolant and brake fluid flush all for $600. I think I will go for that considering the dealer would charge me double that for labor.

 

We coated the bolt to get it off with pte. Worked like a champ.

 

I bought an impact wrench from Sears for the T-50 retaining bolts and used liberal amounts of PB blaster for the retainers but they didnt budge. So I drilled them out with no problems. Make sure you take your time, the write up on NAM is great. I had zero experience with brakes prior to this install and after seeing what is involved there is no way I would ever pay the dealership to install pads and rotors. Plus, its a great way to learn more about your car.

 

I had a buddy do them. But I know i could do it myself. it really is easy. Just messy.

 

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