I’d suspect you have a bad wire and/or connector leading up to the sensor. Have you tried replacing the connector and inspecting the wiring very carefully?

i believe they are diodes, so you need to check that it is sending pulses as you spin the wheel. Measuring voltage isn’t enough.

 

So are we thinking a broken wire?

 

Been fighting the left front sensor error for a while. The error was intermittent. I broke off the old sensor as it would not come out. I drilled it out and cleaned out the hole with WD40 and brake cleaner. I put on a new sensor and now the lights just stay lit.

If I watch the speed sensor with my reader it shows the same speed as the other 3 sensors.
However if I watch the left front one in line/graph mode it shows speed but has an intermittent drop of signal.
What is the speed sensor reading against? Could that part need cleaned or replaced?

Between those 3 lights, the airbag light, and the recently fixe post 02 sensor too lean fix engine light that I spent about 2 thousand dollars fixing I am ready to drive this car off a cliff.

 

There's a ring on the back of the wheel hub assembly. Cleaning it is worth a shot.

 

The tone ring might be damaged also. I recall an old thread where drilling out a stuck wheel speed sensor resulted in damaging the ring.

 

Currently dealing with this on mine. Did a full R56 rear arm swap, new hubs, new subframe, and initially installed R56 ABS sensors. After some reading, seems the R56 sensors don't always play nice with the R53.

So, I ordered new R53 sensors, and it's still showing the left rear is faulty (5DB3 code)

Going to swap sensors side to side tonight and see if it follows the sensor. If it doesn't, then it's either the hub or the wiring.

 

Good luck on this. I don't have my R53 any more so can't offer any hands on advice.

I was convinced the computer wasn't very smart about guessing which wheel had the bad sensor, so always keep your mind open to it being a different one. I also had the body-side of the electrical connector to the wheel speed sensor go bad, so no new sensor will fix that... had to replace that connector. Not terribly hard soldering job, but pretty tiny wires.

If you can find some software that will display the individual wheel speeds as you do a test drive, I think it helps figuring out which one is bad.

 

inpa can display sensor data, no?

 

I actually sorted it all out. I had not fully tightened down the bolt holding down the left rear wheel speed sensor to the trailing arm.

Regardless, I still pulled the sensors, cleaned them, and swapped them side to side. Cleared the ABS module codes and put 40 miles on the car; no issues.

Additionally, for anyone else who stumbles down this path, 3/8" fuel line with the inner diameter slightly enlarged makes a perfect grommet for fitting an R53 sensor into the R56 trailing arm.

 

I have been searching through this thread and some history on continued ABS 5DB3 rear left wheel speed sensor, any thoughts on next steps greatly appreciated (I have 2005 Mini Cooper Base ):

History= Swapped out to aluminum R56 trailing arms, I transferred both used ABS sensors from donor R56 . Transferred one of my R50 hub bearings (aftermarket MOOG), purchased new SKF on the other side. At the same time, I replaced both rear brake lines from the dash rearwards with a s/s kit.

I first bled the rear right and then the rear left using conventional 2 person method, the brake pedal feel and function has been great since.

Symptoms: Active ABS code 5DB3 / 'Wheel speed sensor rear left'. , ABS and Tire lights ON, just these 2.

I replaced the wheel speed sensor with a new Bosch one, cleared code using Foxwell NT630 Plus and the code returned as soon as I went over 10 mph. Then today I replaced the used rear left (MOOG) hub bearing assembly with a new SKF item, cleared the code and it returned again > 10 mph. Wiring looks to be in good shape. I am wondering if my ABS unit is throwing this code because of my bleeding process?

I see some ABS functionality on my Foxwell NT630 Plus for exercising each corners ABS Intake and Exhaust valve. I have the Bentley shop manual, it reads to put tool in scan tool into service bleeding function. Is this something that the Foxwell tool offers? I am not adverse to taking to a shop either for a proper blake fluid change where they can use the correct master pressure bleed equipment..

I see that maybe using R50 wheel speed sensor might potentially also fix the issue.

thanks,

Pete

 

I have now just replaced the rear left speed sensor with a new Bosch Gen 1 sensor , my scan tool still showing zero wheel speed on that corner!

Rear right is just just fine with Gen 2 sensor / Gen 1 hub. I disconnected rear right to make sure 'rear right' really is 'rear right' and it is.....

How do I check body wiring?

thanks,

Pete

 

*updates - I ordered a 3D printed part from the UK, it fit the sensor but was a little loose in the hole, I attached to the Bosch sensor - fault code persisted. Then thanks to a member I decided to order my third sensor, but this time I ordered a Gen 1 OEM supplier = Siemens_VDO rather than Bosch, I reinstalled with the sleeve, and this time I made sure that it was more centered and nowthe fault code is no more.

If anyone can make use of either a Gen 1 or Gen 2 Bosch sensor then you are welcome to what I purchased as I will not be using, both sensors used for less than 5 miles and kept dry. FREE.

Pete.

 

Have the trifecta a couple months ago, fixed it by cleaning all the sensors and reinstalling. Maybe surprisingly or unsurprisingly, I bought all four new sensors from RockAuto, URO brand, and not a single one worked. So, two questions:

1. Do new sensors need to be coded to the car? When I cleaned and reinstalled the old ones, the lights went away immediately. With the new sensors installed, the lights stayed on, my speedometer didn't work, etc.

2. OEM brand sensors are ridiculously priced, is there a trusted brand to use instead?

Thank you

 

Check out the info i just posted here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...sor-brand.html