Engine rattle/tapping when hitting 3k RPM
Engine rattle/tapping when hitting 3k RPM
Hey all,
About a month after having my 15% pulley installed two months ago, I started to notice an engine rattle/tapping sound when I got up around 3k rpm. The sound is still consistently present. The noise is definitely coming from the driver's side of the engine as I hear it when I'm driving. It's not that loud but it's definitely noticeable as I'm pretty aware of any new noises with my car. It's the kind of noise that's similar to a kid putting a playing card in their wheel spoke and sounds possibly more like a drivetrain noise the more and more I hear it. The noise is really only noticeable when I get up to the 2.9k-3k range not any less. After 3300, the engine is already too loud for me to notice if its still going on. I don't know if its the pulley, the fact that I installed some polyurethane lower engine bushings, the cold weather, a combination of these factors, or something unrelated. Any one have any ideas?
About a month after having my 15% pulley installed two months ago, I started to notice an engine rattle/tapping sound when I got up around 3k rpm. The sound is still consistently present. The noise is definitely coming from the driver's side of the engine as I hear it when I'm driving. It's not that loud but it's definitely noticeable as I'm pretty aware of any new noises with my car. It's the kind of noise that's similar to a kid putting a playing card in their wheel spoke and sounds possibly more like a drivetrain noise the more and more I hear it. The noise is really only noticeable when I get up to the 2.9k-3k range not any less. After 3300, the engine is already too loud for me to notice if its still going on. I don't know if its the pulley, the fact that I installed some polyurethane lower engine bushings, the cold weather, a combination of these factors, or something unrelated. Any one have any ideas?
Is there any chance you could post a video with the noise?
I'm thinking it's probably something on the belt end of things: tensioner pulley or idler pulley going out... Did you replace your belt when you changed to the new pulley?
I'm thinking it's probably something on the belt end of things: tensioner pulley or idler pulley going out... Did you replace your belt when you changed to the new pulley?
I don't have the equipment to make a video right now unfortunately. And yes, my dealership put on my pulley and added a jcw belt.
if your saying its on the left side then id rule out the belt/tensioner being thats on the rht side of the engine.
do you have any engine performance problems? rough idle? cel on? notice anything loose/missing? belt still tight?
can you see the metal piece that sticks out the tensioner spring, and if so , how many holes do you see?
do you have any engine performance problems? rough idle? cel on? notice anything loose/missing? belt still tight?
can you see the metal piece that sticks out the tensioner spring, and if so , how many holes do you see?
Last edited by 1FSTMINI; Mar 6, 2009 at 10:19 AM.
Oh duh. Somehow I didn't see where he posted "drivers side" in the OP.
Some of these cars were known to have issues with the dual mass flywheel. There were quite a few threads on it in the past, and if memory serves me right, there's even a TSB out for it. Might want to do a search on the DMF and see what you find.
Some of these cars were known to have issues with the dual mass flywheel. There were quite a few threads on it in the past, and if memory serves me right, there's even a TSB out for it. Might want to do a search on the DMF and see what you find.
that was for a rattle at idle.
MODEL
R52, R53 with W11 ( MINI Cooper S/Cooper S Convertible) with GS6-85BG manual transmission.
SITUATION
The customer may complain of a rattling noise coming from the transmission area when in neutral. The noise becomes louder with increasing operating temperature and disappears when the clutch pedal is depressed.
CAUSE
Excessive engine vibration is being transferred to the transmission due to inadequate dampening capabilities of the dual-mass flywheel.
CORRECTION
On a customer complaint basis only, replace the dual-mass flywheel with the improved part (PN 21 20 7 548 804). For flywheel replacement procedure, refer to RA 11 22 500 found in MINI TIS.
[NEW] Important Diagnostic Hints:
Make sure the complaint is reproducible. Carefully listen to the noise (preferably with a vehicle on the lift, and a second technician activating a clutch pedal) in order to determine its source.
Generally, if the rattling noise originates from the bell housing area, then a dual-mass flywheel is a root cause.
When replacing a dual-mass flywheel make sure to inspect a clutch disc for the signs of excessive play at the input shaft splines. If found defective (excessive play), replace a complete clutch disc assembly.
PARTS INFORMATION
Part Number Description Quantity21 20 7 548 804 Dual-mass flywheel 1
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the MINI New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
Defect Code Refer to KSDLabor Operation: Refer to KSDLabor Allowance: Refer to KSD
MODEL
R52, R53 with W11 ( MINI Cooper S/Cooper S Convertible) with GS6-85BG manual transmission.
SITUATION
The customer may complain of a rattling noise coming from the transmission area when in neutral. The noise becomes louder with increasing operating temperature and disappears when the clutch pedal is depressed.
CAUSE
Excessive engine vibration is being transferred to the transmission due to inadequate dampening capabilities of the dual-mass flywheel.
CORRECTION
On a customer complaint basis only, replace the dual-mass flywheel with the improved part (PN 21 20 7 548 804). For flywheel replacement procedure, refer to RA 11 22 500 found in MINI TIS.
[NEW] Important Diagnostic Hints:
Make sure the complaint is reproducible. Carefully listen to the noise (preferably with a vehicle on the lift, and a second technician activating a clutch pedal) in order to determine its source.
Generally, if the rattling noise originates from the bell housing area, then a dual-mass flywheel is a root cause.
When replacing a dual-mass flywheel make sure to inspect a clutch disc for the signs of excessive play at the input shaft splines. If found defective (excessive play), replace a complete clutch disc assembly.
PARTS INFORMATION
Part Number Description Quantity21 20 7 548 804 Dual-mass flywheel 1
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the MINI New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
Defect Code Refer to KSDLabor Operation: Refer to KSDLabor Allowance: Refer to KSD
also check the exhaust to make sure its not touching anywhere....the center mounts on the sqaure bracket in the middle of the system are known to fail and cause metal on metal noises and vibrations
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Hey all,
About a month after having my 15% pulley installed two months ago, I started to notice an engine rattle/tapping sound when I got up around 3k rpm. The sound is still consistently present. The noise is definitely coming from the driver's side of the engine as I hear it when I'm driving. It's not that loud but it's definitely noticeable as I'm pretty aware of any new noises with my car. It's the kind of noise that's similar to a kid putting a playing card in their wheel spoke and sounds possibly more like a drivetrain noise the more and more I hear it. The noise is really only noticeable when I get up to the 2.9k-3k range not any less. After 3300, the engine is already too loud for me to notice if its still going on. I don't know if its the pulley, the fact that I installed some polyurethane lower engine bushings, the cold weather, a combination of these factors, or something unrelated. Any one have any ideas?
About a month after having my 15% pulley installed two months ago, I started to notice an engine rattle/tapping sound when I got up around 3k rpm. The sound is still consistently present. The noise is definitely coming from the driver's side of the engine as I hear it when I'm driving. It's not that loud but it's definitely noticeable as I'm pretty aware of any new noises with my car. It's the kind of noise that's similar to a kid putting a playing card in their wheel spoke and sounds possibly more like a drivetrain noise the more and more I hear it. The noise is really only noticeable when I get up to the 2.9k-3k range not any less. After 3300, the engine is already too loud for me to notice if its still going on. I don't know if its the pulley, the fact that I installed some polyurethane lower engine bushings, the cold weather, a combination of these factors, or something unrelated. Any one have any ideas?

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