Driver side window problem...
#26
I just started having the same problem with my 08 MCS, but the weather here in the mid Willamette Valley in Oregon hasn't been all that cold. Don't think it would matter anyway since my MINI is parked in the garage at night and never gets iced over.
So, I'm really looking forward to arranging my first service call at the dealership which is 80 miles away.
So, I'm really looking forward to arranging my first service call at the dealership which is 80 miles away.
#27
They fixed the window this morning. Fortunately, it only took a couple of hours, not counting the drive there and back. The service advisor said that this window issue is happening quite a bit and that there was some new guidance issued by MINI since I was there for the same problem just a couple of months ago. They didn't replace any parts. We'll see how long this fix lasts.
#28
Same issue with my 08MCS and it has been rather frigid here in Cincinnati over the past few months. Just had it in for service last week and all is well since but reading this thread has got me a little worried. I also thought it may be an issue with cold weather but my SA told me it had nothing to do with it. And, I also worried about the functionality of the windows over the life of the car, especially in the cold months. Well hopefully, this first fix is the last for the windows...
#31
Hi all!!! I just had my windows' software updated for this very same problem.
My SA told me that the software update is basically a temporary fix but he is seeing it work for several other mini's in the area. He said that Mini is looking for a permanent solution but not to expect it to be introduced before another couple of months.
So far my "fix" is doing the trick!! (But it is hard to relax and not worry that my window might be down)
My SA told me that the software update is basically a temporary fix but he is seeing it work for several other mini's in the area. He said that Mini is looking for a permanent solution but not to expect it to be introduced before another couple of months.
So far my "fix" is doing the trick!! (But it is hard to relax and not worry that my window might be down)
#33
Well had my MINI in for window rehab on Wednesday. Window is now working fine. Also told them not to touch the tailpipes, which they honored. And also found out that I had the wrong floormats. My husband has complained about them not fitting right ever since I brought the car home. Turns out I had the european mats.
#34
My car's in service for this right now.
Dealer opened a PUMA case, as there isn't a service bulletin out yet. SA claimed that the problem is rare to Northern CA, and they'll likely just reprogram the car.
If this car is as much of a shop queen as my last MINI...
Anybody else miss "real" switches?
Dealer opened a PUMA case, as there isn't a service bulletin out yet. SA claimed that the problem is rare to Northern CA, and they'll likely just reprogram the car.
If this car is as much of a shop queen as my last MINI...
Anybody else miss "real" switches?
#36
LOL yeah right, except the window motor and all the fuses would blow if you got the car in the water. Unless they mounted the water sensor on the bottom of the car to give you a 5 second head start before the water reached the battery.
But you are correct on the second idea, the computer monitors the voltage from the lift motor to look for over-torque condition which would be cause by some thing getting trapped.
But you are correct on the second idea, the computer monitors the voltage from the lift motor to look for over-torque condition which would be cause by some thing getting trapped.
Actually they will not. Your power windows will continue to work even if the car is submerged under water. I don't know of any cars where the windows will roll down automatically when the car is submerged, but manually you can still open them.
#37
It's a feature that keeps you from crushing your fingers if you were to put them on the glass and try to close the window. The window motor is able to sense resistance in the window, when it exceeds a certain threshold of resistance the window will automatically roll down half way. Keeps small children and pets from being accidentally decapitated.
You can try this your self. Open the door and keep it open (to avoid the danger of actually jamming your hand between the glass and the roof). Roll the window all the way down. Press the button for auto up and then quickly put your hand on the edge of the glass, as the window is going up apply downward pressure, the window will stop and roll back down.
In cold weather especially when you get snow and ice buildup on the window, or the window freezes shut, that ice adds resistance, and the motor senses it and the computer interprets it as little (insert pet name here) is getting it's (insert body part here) stuck in the window and rolls it back down.
When the window gets "reprogrammed" they are actually adjusting the resistance threshold, because the cars computer gets a little confused and has a tendency to lower the window even though the physical resistance is no longer there.
There's your safety feature
#38
window
#39
Just had a problem today, window didn't come back up after the door was closed getting in (had to hit the button to have it come all the way back up), it happened again when I wasn't paying attention, and window was about a half an inch down (started whistling). After I cleaned off the window seemed to go back to working normal. Hope it was just because of dirt/salt build up and not related to the ongoing issues here.
#40
#41
Just so some of you know...there was a bulletin release that stated that cars until 9-2009 could be affected by this issue. Although the reprogram could do some good, the bulletin made me aware that the problem could come back. I expect they are waiting on either further developement of software and testing or there is a third party vendor for the FRM that wont be released until the third quarter.
#42
For those of you getting a software update, who also have the Bluetooth option, be sure to check that your phone still works before you leave the dealership. On my first "update" visit, I didn't think about doing this, and realized later my car and my phone were no longer talking to each other. Went back, and they told me they "updated the update", which could be legit, or the tech could have installed the wrong version of the update the first time...
My window is still working properly, fifteen days out.
My window is still working properly, fifteen days out.
The "wrong version" can't be installed in the car, at least not by us. The VO is determined by the SSS or PROGMAN and automatically determines what updates your car needs. No input from any dealer tech unless directed by Teileclearing would take place, wouldn't even have an alternate VO to install.
#43
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The "wrong version" can't be installed in the car, at least not by us. The VO is determined by the SSS or PROGMAN and automatically determines what updates your car needs. No input from any dealer tech unless directed by Teileclearing would take place, wouldn't even have an alternate VO to install.
#44
I've seen random programming issues affect other modules, but not often. Is anything on your Most bus working. Do you have Sat. Radio, Hifi, or Ipod? Could be that he left the most bus cable unplugged. If you look under the Gbox on the right side, above and further back than the fuse box, you will see multiple sets of most bus cables. There will be several that are just loose for accessories but theres a rectangle plastic bracket that holds two connectors. They should be clipped onto the bracket. One would be a real pain in the *** to remove, and is not the one you have to access when programming. The other one however might be in the general area of the bracket and could be disconnected from it's mating half. Just look there and if you see 2 obvious connectors that should be together plug them in. These are Fiberoptic signals for Audio commands and such and no Power or ground runs through them so you can't damage anything. If that doesn't work, the ULF(Telephone module) would just have to be checked the normal way.
#45
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I've seen random programming issues affect other modules, but not often. Is anything on your Most bus working. Do you have Sat. Radio, Hifi, or Ipod? Could be that he left the most bus cable unplugged. If you look under the Gbox on the right side, above and further back than the fuse box, you will see multiple sets of most bus cables. There will be several that are just loose for accessories but theres a rectangle plastic bracket that holds two connectors. They should be clipped onto the bracket. One would be a real pain in the *** to remove, and is not the one you have to access when programming. The other one however might be in the general area of the bracket and could be disconnected from it's mating half. Just look there and if you see 2 obvious connectors that should be together plug them in. These are Fiberoptic signals for Audio commands and such and no Power or ground runs through them so you can't damage anything. If that doesn't work, the ULF(Telephone module) would just have to be checked the normal way.
#46
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I just got off the phone with the dealer. The window reset procedure is to press the the window switch down and hold it down as the window lowers and keep holding it down for 15 seconds after the window has gone all the way down. Then flip the switch to the up position and hold it up while the window goes up and keep holding it up for 15 seconds after the window is all the way up.
Please note that when you go from holding the switch down to holding it up, that should all be in one motion. In other words, to do this correctly you should be holding the switch down or holding it up through the entire procedure. The switch should never rest in the middle position.
I haven't tried this yet. I literally just hung up with the service guy (who said he was well aware of the window issue). I'll post back to say if it works or not. I asked him if this was a permanent fix or if this would just be temporary (like when they did whatever they did to fix it a couple of months ago). He basically hedged and said that if it does happen again, they'll have to keep the car a few days.
I suspect if this does fix the problem, it probably isn't a permanent fix. It is good to know how to reset the window though so I can at least delay getting the permanent fix until I have to go in for scheduled maintenance.
Please note that when you go from holding the switch down to holding it up, that should all be in one motion. In other words, to do this correctly you should be holding the switch down or holding it up through the entire procedure. The switch should never rest in the middle position.
I haven't tried this yet. I literally just hung up with the service guy (who said he was well aware of the window issue). I'll post back to say if it works or not. I asked him if this was a permanent fix or if this would just be temporary (like when they did whatever they did to fix it a couple of months ago). He basically hedged and said that if it does happen again, they'll have to keep the car a few days.
I suspect if this does fix the problem, it probably isn't a permanent fix. It is good to know how to reset the window though so I can at least delay getting the permanent fix until I have to go in for scheduled maintenance.
My problem was with the passenger side window. It would not roll up with the key I had to hold the switch in the up position to get it to go up. It would open with the fob or with a single flip down. Resetting worked perfect thanks to the near 60,000 other Mini owners for the help
#47
Same problem on the 2009
I live on the Central Coast of California and we have been experiencing unusually high amounts of rain. Last week I noticed that the driver's window wasn't making that little "pop" noise when it seals closed. The next day, my seat was wet, because the window was open enough to let in rain. I tried to raise the window, and it went to the top and then immediately came down again. This has been happening since. Fortunately, I can manage after several attempts to get it almost fully closed but not quite. Wouldn't the 09 have been reprogrammed? I live 160 miles from a dealer so this is a big deal. Anyone know how to fix it without taking it in? And why don't the dealers/manufacturers read these posts! I love my Mini but as far as getting good information (how about a DVD manual that really explains things? or a website manual?), it's the worst car I've owned. Anybody have a dealer with a website that has a FAQ or troubleshooting page?
#48
If you call the dealer, you can get the exact instructions but if I remember correctly...
You close the doors and push both front window buttons and push them down, once down, hold them for 10 seconds and then roll them up. When you hit the top, again, hold the buttons for 10 seconds.
Then go down one last time. Again, when you hit the bottom, hold the buttons in the down position for 10 more seconds.
Whenever we disconnect batteries in the bodyshop, we have to do this to many cars.
It's no big deal and once you get it done, you shouldn't have a problem again.
If my instructions don't work, call the dealer and they'll tell you how to do it over the phone.
HTH's,
Mark
You close the doors and push both front window buttons and push them down, once down, hold them for 10 seconds and then roll them up. When you hit the top, again, hold the buttons for 10 seconds.
Then go down one last time. Again, when you hit the bottom, hold the buttons in the down position for 10 more seconds.
Whenever we disconnect batteries in the bodyshop, we have to do this to many cars.
It's no big deal and once you get it done, you shouldn't have a problem again.
If my instructions don't work, call the dealer and they'll tell you how to do it over the phone.
HTH's,
Mark
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John J Ferrari (12-05-2018)
#49
#50