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Door locks bowden cable service bulletin

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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 12:40 PM
  #51  
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Any idea where i can get a replacement green rod holder? mine snapped when I was taking apart my door panels. I don't even know where to start when searching for a part number or anything like that

halp
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 09:08 AM
  #52  
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Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread-especially the photos. It took me three tries on different days to realize that the blue plastic piece at the latch end of the cable was out of position, but one I got it snapped back into place all is well!
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 01:46 PM
  #53  
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This is all wonderful information, except for the fact that my door won't open so I can't take off the panel! Someone please please help
 
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Old May 24, 2013 | 06:57 AM
  #54  
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R53 Drivers side door will not open from the inside

Came across this post which saved me a ton of time. Sharing...

SITUATION
There was a service bulletin for that type of concern. It states... Bowden cable on door may become loose causing door not to open from inside the vehicle.
CAUSE
The internal Bowden cable of the door latch assembly may not have been attached to the rotary striker properly, or has come loose. It is not necessary to replace the Bowden cable or the latch assembly for this situation.
PROCEDURE
http://www.justanswer.com/car/2oes2-...e-willnot.html
 
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #55  
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Gotta love a multi-generational post that resolves the exact issue I had.

Pulled door panel off, felt around inside for a while and discovered the bulbous end was not attached (felt like the cable inside was the only thing making contact with the lock assembly) so I aligned it and pushed down the bulbous end without a mirror and with a bit of just feeling around.

15 minutes in and out. Took longer to read the thread and I'm glad that I did
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 03:16 PM
  #56  
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bowden cable pops out

I've found that there seems to be a problem with the cable routing. As the cable adjusts from use, it moves toward the lock mechanism, becoming loose and then easily popping out of its fixture.

I put a zip tie next to the first routing stop after the cable exits the interior of the door to hold it in place. Seems to be working.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 09:58 AM
  #57  
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Thanks

Of all the garbage on the internet this thread in certainly not one of the them. Great pointers to the actual problem and an easy fix. When my drivers inside door handle wouldn't work on the 05 S my first thought was "oh great I can only imagine what a door handle is going to cost. A little futzing in the garage and tada it works again.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 03:40 PM
  #58  
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Deleted by author; wrong thread.
 

Last edited by Mynewt; Mar 21, 2014 at 05:20 AM. Reason: Wrong thread.
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 11:20 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by fuse
My 04 MCS had the problem with opening the driver side door last night. I can open from the outside, but not from the inside. I cracked the door panel a few mins ago and it seems that all was in order except the tension on the cable is just too lose, not pulling on the door latching mechanism enough to open the door. There are 2 cable guides that routes the cable, between the guides there is a hole in the door. I used a spare interior trim piece plastic snap that fit perfectly in the hole, routed the cable above the snap extending the run for the cable slightly. It does not add any additional stress on the cable, but picked up enough cable slack to make the door open perfectly as new now.

It all took about 10 mins to undo the door panel, fit the snap, and reinstall the door panel.
I decided to try this rout first before taking the lock assembly out. Moving the cable just that little bit made it like new again. Unfortunately, the dealer doesn't have the clip in stock so I have to wait until Monday to actually make everything work again. Thanks for everyone's input it helped me save a lot of money.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:25 PM
  #60  
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now what

my driverside door wont open, so how do I open it to remove the doorcard to check it out?


some others have asked the same question without an answer, and yeah the "dukes of hazard" maneuver gets old after awhile...
 
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 05:20 AM
  #61  
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It's been a while since I did this repair, but open the door from the outside, remove all of the screws from the interior handle and interior latch handle, then remove the interior door panel. From there, follow instructions in earlier posts.

Somewhere, someone suggested putting some clear silicone on the "clip" near the end of the cable that pops out, and this worked for me.

Good luck!

http://www.justanswer.com/car/2oes2-...e-willnot.html

This is a link to a Mini service bulletin on the repair, but there are other threads with much more detail, if you search around. The tricky thing is you cannot see this assembly inside the door, without a mirror.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 05:29 AM
  #62  
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Here is a great picture that may help further. Unless your cable or latch has been otherwise damaged, all this repair involves is getting the blue plastic thing in this picture snapped back into place, which can be done without taking any of the lock assembly apart. You just have to reach up into the door, and figure it out with your fingers, or use a small mirror to see it.

 
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 01:59 PM
  #63  
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That's it above on the service action, if the outside handles are older and stick , you will just need the updated handle part #'s.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 03:42 PM
  #64  
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On my 2004 MCS with 145K, when I open the driver's side door from inside it feels like the cable is binding on something, and I am concerned that it may someday break. Any thoughts anyone? TIA.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 08:22 PM
  #65  
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well I'm pretty sure the electric part is shot in mine. even though I tried the outer door handle, the inner door handle, the switch in the console, and the key fob, the door wouldn't unlock, but what I forgot about was trying the actual key. that worked for me, now I can get the door open to remove the doorcard and check the bits!
 
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Old Jun 4, 2015 | 06:52 AM
  #66  
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Here is everything from the door lock that can fail , or the door cables that can snap. When the door cable / interior handles feels tight lube the door lock first.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...wont-open.html

 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 06:16 PM
  #67  
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Pulled into work this morning and my driver side door wouldn't open from the inside....A quick search on here and fuhgeddaboudit i had that son o'b!tch fixed an hour later.....Would've been faster but short fat fingers aren't the greatest tools for this job...I would like to send a HUUUUUGE Thank You to everyone who contributed to this thread....Once again NAM members come to the rescue...
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 09:10 AM
  #68  
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Awesome, glad the thread helped.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 12:41 PM
  #69  
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that darn door pad!

So... I'm confident I can fix this myself... BUT I can't get the door pad to come off so I can get to the last bolt. My brother tried to help and he couldn't get it off either. Can someone PLEASE tell me how to get that stupid clip to lie down so I can slide the handle forward?

...I'm starting to think the previous owner gorilla glued the damn thing in place. :(
 
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 12:52 PM
  #70  
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Clips that holds cable ? should lift off from the bottom and push the door card upward. Make sure the trim for the handle / speaker is off.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 01:29 PM
  #71  
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nonono... you misunderstand.

I got the reflector off (bolt #1)

I got the door handle/small speaker trim off (no bolt, but has to come off per directions)

I got the other two bolts unscrewed (the two exposed bolts)

but there is ONE more bolt, underneath that padded thing on the door... like an armrest, but your arm would never really sit there? Right in the middle of that big oval. There's supposed to be a clip that, if you insert a flat tool, will lie flat, allowing one to pull the padded thingy forward, exposing the last bolt. But I either can't find the clip, or am doing something wrong because we can NOT get the darn thing off.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 01:48 PM
  #72  
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Ahh, the flat screw driver goes between that pad and the brace, then push the ppad forwards to expsoe the last screw.



Get a schawben tool or a flat tol to press back the tab.


https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Schwaben_Trim_Tools/










https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...mrest/ES99658/


 
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 01:58 PM
  #73  
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*nod*

that's the exact video we were using. None of the flat tools my brother had were doing the trick. We even filed one down, and, after letting it cool, it still wouldn't press that damn thing down. Though, from that lovely picture up there with the pad removed... it looks like it might be further along than we were able to get the tools he was using.

... I am SO going to use a butterknife tonight. He wouldn't let me use one of his (for fear of bending a butterknife)... but I think it's a better tool than the putty knife he was using, or the narrow flathead screwdriver.

Thank you so much! Trying again before I give up and find a bodyshop to take it off for me.

...maybe if I make them cookies they'll take it off for free???
 
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 02:03 PM
  #74  
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Its might be stuck from a damaged gash from the metal tools. See the tab locations on the pic of the door without the armrest. It does not have to pry that far. Also wiggle the armrest forward at the same time. And pop , it should work.

Unless they super glued the pad to the door because the busted the pry tab, i have seen it.

 
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 02:36 PM
  #75  
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That's kind of what I'm fearing. o.O

Though... I guess if worst comes to worst I rip it off and then Gorilla Glue the thing back on myself, eh?

CRAZINESS!
 
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