I posted this already in the "Coupe Talk (2002-2006)" Forum, but had not responses at all, so even though I hate and I know everyone else hates double posting, I need some help and I cannot believe there isn't anyone out there that can offer one!

I have an ‘02 non-S w/ about 56,000miles. I don't know if this is just coincidence but I hit a deer about 3 months ago (my baby was in the shop for a month ). After I got mu mini back it had a pull which the shop insisted was a tire (radial pull)(They had rotated the tires front to back). They did double check the alignment, which made me feel better. Anyway, I decided they were probably right since the tires are worn and probably need replaced.

However, I was putting air in my tires about a week ago and noticed that my left rear brake pads were about gone (about 1/8" of pad) while all the others looked new!

It all fit after I saw that, since I was also getting awful gas mileage! Oh yeah the pull is to the left! I change breaks this past weekend hoping that the pins that hold the calipers on where just gummed up. No such luck! They did have a little gunk on them, but after cleaning them up and lubing them, the brakes are still sticking.

Is there something that could have been damaged in the ABS when I hit the deer? I have looked at most of the brake lines to see if any had been pinched but I did not see anything. Most of the suspension on the front driver’s side had to be replaced as well as the inner fender, battery, fog light... Also, when the shop was finished they had to take it to the mini dealer in Indy to have the airbag light turned off, so maybe something else got damaged???

Any suggestions would be great, before I start replacing things!

Thanks everyone!

 

Try putting the vehicle on stands, remove the rear wheels, unbolt the sway bar drop links, place a jack under the lower strut mount on the troubled side and lift the trailing arm, with the parking brake off, there should only be a very slight drag (hear more than feel), if it is hard to rotate then suspect either the Bowden cable or caliper piston. Remove the P-brake boot and center console, back the P-brake nut out enough to remove the end of the cable from the saddle, take the other end off the caliper, the cable should move in and out freely, mine was completely frozen, and I mean absolutely stuck https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=87528 . If not then remove the brake pads and retract the caliper piston, reassemble, adjust the P-brake and try again.

 

K-huevo - Thank you for your response!!!!!

Why go through all that? Is it just to make sure there is no "outside" interference? Why not just jack up the car, take the wheels off and spin??

I have looked at my parking brake, but not for the gap shown in your link. I use my parking brake all the time, so I wouldn't think that it would freeze.

As a matter of fact I wouldn't think that a car that is only 5 years old w/ only 56,000 miles would have any brake issues, have you heard of many issues like this?

Thank you agian!

 

There is always more than one way to approach trouble shooting so do as you reason best. Resetting the brake piston could be performed first instead.

There will be a gap when the P-brake is properly adjusted and the trailing arms are at full extension, after the suspension is compressed the gap will narrow to almost touching, it should not be like the 5mm+ width shown in the link’s photo.

At some point the tension on the cables has to be eliminated in order to isolate cause for the drag.

Removing the center P-brake console allows a closer inspection of the saddle, to be sure one cable side has not cocked unnaturally, upsetting the balance.

 

Thank you! I will give your suggestions a try and see what happens!

I will post back my results!

 

Well, I have rulled out the paking brake. The cables were fine and everything was loose. So it kinda sounds like its probably the caliper itself.

Has anyone out there rebuilt there calipers, is there even a rebuild kit available?

Thanks everyone!

 

Around my area, getting a rebuilt caliper is actually a pretty good deal - I'm speaking in general terms. Twice I had to replace a front caliper on our 1995 Toyota work truck (left front 2 years ago, right last month). It is super easy to swap them... $80 for a rebuild with a warranty. The truck has 130k+ New England snow/salt/crud miles on it so I don't feel too bad...

Anyway, if the piston is frozen you might find getting a re-man worth the saved time.