AAAARRRGGGHHH!!!
I am in the middle of a mess with my MCS. It has 94K miles, and has thus far been bulletproof (literally stopped a bullet when someone tried to carjack me in AZ) then all of a sudden I start to overheat! Thought it was air in the system, bled the system, no change. . Found a T-connector that was broken and leaking coolant. Replaced, no change. Took it to the shop, they said Water Pump and Thermostat. Replaced those last weekend, still overheats. I am confounded and frazzled, any ideas are most welcome. Thank you for your time.

 

humm did the shop by any chance check the supercharger output shaft that connects to the water pump, to make sure it was spining the pump???

have you heard any weird noises coming from the engine recently??

also are both of the stages on the cooling fan working properlly???

 

The madness....

 

the cooling fan is working, both stages, checked the fuses.
No abnormal noises.
I replaced the water pump, and before i married the shafts together, i made sure they spun. Bad thermostat? bad seal on replaced thermostat? clogged or blocked hoses? Got pressure in the coolant system, bled OK, but no heat from A/C, and temp guage spikes after 5-8minutes of idling, with or without the A/C on.
I am stymied, I try and turn my own wrench, but I cannot figure this one out.
Thank you for the help.

 

Bump, need assistance
thanks

 

I assume the Power Steering fan is working and was replaced years ago with the new one and separate fuse?

Rich

 

hey i know you said you checked the shafts on the supercharger and water pump and they were turning, but did you by any chance pull on the sc shaft. meaning away from the sc?

only because i had a car overheating and i checked all i could think of and it turned out to be bad gears inside the sc; the teeth were damage on the center of both gears so that they would lock during the first spins but then work there way to the spot where both sets of theeth were gone and the pump would stop turning. (i know kinda hard to picture...)

by any chance have you done a compression/leakdown test?

 

no heat, eh?

I'd say it is possible that you haven't got the entire system bled properly. There can only be so many things going on here, and I think you've identified most of them.

 

Sounds to me like air trapped in the cooling system,too.
Try bleeding it with the front of the car raised about a foot off the ground.

Jim

 

Are you bleeding it from BOTH bleeder screws?

 

Is an mcs so you will only have 1 bleeder screw and the 8mm bolt under and to the front of the thermostat housing.

 

It is now blowing the 5 amp fuse, every time I start it, within 5 minutes or so, and I have not had the service to separate the fuses. Hope that is all it is, all I can imagine is a warped head, or head gasket, or blockage in the line.
no mixture in exhaust gases, no leakdown/ compression done yet.
I get NO HEAT to the radiator.
engine runs well, goes into low idle.
as it is overheating, I can still touch the radiator with my bare hand.
Bled fine and I believe completely, bled it with front end up after draining it to install water pump and thermo.
Will check power steering fan again and replace, unless anyone has any other ideas???
thank you for all of the input

 

Any coolant in the oil? (it will have a foamy "milk-chocolate" look to it).

I agree that it doesn't sound like you're getting any circulation at all. When you drained the system, did it seem like an appropriate amount of coolant came out?

The only thing I can think of is to drain the system again and start pulling hoses. I had a rubber oil cooler line once where the inner lining of the hose separated from the hose wall, and would "flap" into the oil stream, blocking it like a check valve. But it would only do it under high flow/high pressure conditions, so when we removed the hose, we could pour cleaner through it all day long and it didn't look like anything was wrong with it.

 

Does the fuse popping repeatedly mean the Power Steering fan is the issue?
I am going to pull hoses and check for blockages, but I think whatever is causing the fuse to pop is also causing my overheating. No coolant in the oil, no mixture in exhaust gases, no leaks. thank you for all of the advice.

 

yes the fuse poping could be caused by the ps fan binding. which then stops the cooling fan from working.

 

Just remove the ps fan and see if the fuse blows again. if not then there ya go, its the fan. I've even seen the PS fan there but not connected to eliminate that...

 

I know that sorry. I didnt call it an 8mm screw, but some people dont even know about the screw.

 

just for the record, it is quite hard to bleed out system for some reason. Took almost 3 days of driving around with the heater going full blast to finally get mine air free. What a pain it was. On short trips, it would suck any more water in, but drive for 20 minutes, and my reservoir was dry. Took 3 fills of the reservoir after 20 minutes drives to finally get the heater to blow hot (not just warm) and for it to stop sucking water from the tank.

Beecher

 

oh i wasn't trying to be an ***, i'm sorry. and you are correct, hardly anybody knows about it.

anyways, loki any updates???

 

BTW, my 05 MCS has 2 bleed screws: the plastic one on the hose at the front of the car coming from the radiator, and the 8mm one just above the thermostat housing. I would highly recommend bleeding both, as until I did this I was still getting overheating.
Of course, if you have an earlier model it may not have both bleeds.

good luck.

 

all r53's have both bleeders and the r50's have 3.

 

the r50s have 3? I only know about the one on the front pipe, psgr side, and i think that was it. hahah. Other than the thermo cap, which was very hard to get off, and almost as hard to get back on properly again. Wheres the other 2?

Beecher

 

The other plastic bleeder is on the heater core lines going into the firewall. it looks just like the plastic one on the front of the engine bay. and the other one is the 8mm bolt(goldish color) sitting to the right of the intake manifold when looking down onto the engine.

its on a metal hose that follows the side of the cylinder head. so if you look thru the right lower corner of the intake manifold it will be there.

 

I have little patience left for this string of difficulties. I disconnected the P/S fan, and the cooling fan now works, but it still overheats. Fuse no longer blows every 5 minutes, but it still overheats. Rechecked thermostat install, rechecked water pump install ( Pain in the unowhat ) tried to clear all cooling system hoses, found a clay-like substance in the hose system, gray and, well clay-like. thought I had it solved, but no such luck.
Think I am going to bite the bullet and fork over the greenbacks for a guaranteed fix.
Frustration passed five days ago, now I must just accept this situation, or shoot my car. Like the car, so I will give it one more chance. Hope the pros can deduce what I could not. Thank you all for the help, feel free to keep the advice coming if you have some insight as to what is going on.

 

is the radiator cool to touch at bottom then hot at top ? could be a clogged radiator.