05 Automatic Transmission "EP" Issues
Just me, but now way in heck I'd buy a car that was lemon lawed.
You are going to buy used & you will not have the ability to lemon law it if it turns out to be a lemon for you also. It was for the previous owner.
You are going to buy used & you will not have the ability to lemon law it if it turns out to be a lemon for you also. It was for the previous owner.
Does any one know if I can reset the computer to make that EP code go away? I have a 06 MCS and it just showed up. The car does not drive any different. I have a automatic with paddle shifters.
I disconnected the battery for over 8 hours but that did nothing. I did test the battery with a meter while it was connected to the car with the car not running and it showed 12.4V but it was 20°F outside. While the car was running it showed 14V.
I disconnected the battery for over 8 hours but that did nothing. I did test the battery with a meter while it was connected to the car with the car not running and it showed 12.4V but it was 20°F outside. While the car was running it showed 14V.
Last edited by piotrek1313; Jan 7, 2010 at 09:10 AM.
The battery at 12.4 and the car off is about right and the 14V when the car is running is the alternator doing it's job. My EP went off after it was induced by trying to shift to fast and into and out of sports drive two years ago. With the paddles it could have been a case where the transmission did not know where to go and it threw the code. Now with 29,000 miles on it my 07 has not shown any more EP issues. The scan tool or maybe a day or two of normal driving might resolve the issue.
After reconnecting the battery and driving to work with the EP light on I thought that I would just have to go to the dealer. But driving after work it was clear. It was clear today as well, lets hope that it stays that way.
Before I decided to disconnect the battery over night, I took my car to Auto Zone and had them check the computer, and it did not come up with anything. Does Auto Zones scan tool just suck?
I am certain that Tron Chief is on the money, looks like the wrong light is lit on the shifter when i start my car. So, who knows where the sensor is that determines all that? Can it be changed, tightened, or adjusted?

Before I decided to disconnect the battery over night, I took my car to Auto Zone and had them check the computer, and it did not come up with anything. Does Auto Zones scan tool just suck?
I am certain that Tron Chief is on the money, looks like the wrong light is lit on the shifter when i start my car. So, who knows where the sensor is that determines all that? Can it be changed, tightened, or adjusted?
Last edited by piotrek1313; Jan 18, 2010 at 12:13 PM.
Lanacop
Thank you for sharing the problems you and Austin were having and especially the solution. My 2006 Mini is dealing with the same issue which is what drove me to Google and find this forum.
Big help! Happy Holidays!
Big help! Happy Holidays!
Ep light but i can still shift
I have the EP light. But im still able to drive in manual. I can shift through all the gears but backwards..push forward to get higher gears..so in essence i push it backwards for 1st gear..unless thats how ths manual works....any thoughts? My EP light was interminent for about 2 days now its on all the time. 2004 mini cooper base model.
Last edited by Shua; Mar 11, 2019 at 09:39 PM. Reason: More info
Mini 2006 Convertable RN code
Recently purchased this car with a 150000 miles and the RN code comes on intermittently. When it comes on the car seems to go into a spastic mode and the brake light comes on it down shifts into 1st gear and would not let me shift out of 1st gear. If I pull over and let the car sit for a while it usually fixes the problem and drives perfectly fine until it happens again
Yes!, just unplug the tach right up on the steering wheel and (for me anyway) it was fixed.
Its been a while but I relate the problem like having a five year old chattering incessantly at Thanksgiving dinner. With the noisy chattering Tach going on and on, none of the other CanBus systems can communicate and then problems occur such as the CVT going into limp mode which takes it to an engine speed over 3,000 rpm. If you are casually driving and then the engine goes over 3,000, it sounds like it is headed for an explosion (but it is actually trying to be safe???).
A month later I bought a used tach on eBay and it continued to run fine. I didn't want to pay big dealership money if a $40 tach worked, which it did.
Peter
Its been a while but I relate the problem like having a five year old chattering incessantly at Thanksgiving dinner. With the noisy chattering Tach going on and on, none of the other CanBus systems can communicate and then problems occur such as the CVT going into limp mode which takes it to an engine speed over 3,000 rpm. If you are casually driving and then the engine goes over 3,000, it sounds like it is headed for an explosion (but it is actually trying to be safe???).
A month later I bought a used tach on eBay and it continued to run fine. I didn't want to pay big dealership money if a $40 tach worked, which it did.
Peter
CVT means "Continuously Variable Transmission" which is different than transaxles with gears. It uses special metal belts and expanding pulleys to get the ratios. CVT's are used in A/T's (automatic transmissions) but the early Mini CVT's had issues so Mini changed to an A/T that uses a torque converter, (a 'slushbox') about 2007.
CVT has nothing to do with a convertible top.
CVT's are becoming more popular today due to improved fuel mileage and emission control.
Peter
CVT has nothing to do with a convertible top.
CVT's are becoming more popular today due to improved fuel mileage and emission control.
Peter
As posted above, a CVT is another type of transmission.
Do you have a regular convertible, or an S with a supercharger? The regular will have a CVT and the S will have an Aisin 6 speed automatic.
Do you have a regular convertible, or an S with a supercharger? The regular will have a CVT and the S will have an Aisin 6 speed automatic.
This is what’s going on
Had a customer with a 2005 Cooper with an EP error. Dealer told her that the transmission is internally broken and recommends to replace the transmission. We test drove the Cooper and the transmission was very jerky.
Only had one fault code P1786 for transmission ratio actuator.
We tested the wiring and it passed. I decided to just clear faults and adaptations and presto! Car is fixed! Customer was so happy she didn't have to spend $6000 on a new transmission that wasn't even broken.
Only had one fault code P1786 for transmission ratio actuator.
We tested the wiring and it passed. I decided to just clear faults and adaptations and presto! Car is fixed! Customer was so happy she didn't have to spend $6000 on a new transmission that wasn't even broken.
i have the same code
so i hope i don’t have to replace the tranny
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