I've recently purchased an '03 MCS with 33K miles on it. I love the car, but after a very short time the car started making juddering/vibrating when engaging the clutch in first gear. Near as I can tell from looking through this forum, this is likely a worn out or warped clutch.

So, given a guy who's relatively mechanically inclined, done oil changes and brake jobs in the past (though no major engine tear-downs), is this a reasonable do-it-yourself job? Anyone done it here that has tips, tricks or how to avoid common mistakes?

Many thanks!

Bob

 

Most front wheel drive cars are a painin the tail for clutch jobs. I did my old Escort and basically you had to drop the engine and remove the entire front left wheel to get to the darn thing. I would imagine that it would be a similar job for the MINI. With that being said, if you have the tools and space it is a doable job, just give yourself time to get it done.

Oh, and make sure that you have ALL the tools BEFORE you start.

 

The second time I dropped the transmission it took less than eight hours to have it on a work bench. Here's a how-to https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...52#post1451152

With only 33k on your vehicle it is still under warranty.

 

Good read k-huevo! Looks like it is a massive undertaking for the most part. A weekend job.

Gone are the days that you could drop a tranny and change the clutch in a few hours. :(

 

Thanks for that info! While it still has a few months left on the warranty, my understanding was that the clutch was not covered, since it is a wear item. But I suppose it never hurts to ask!

Bob

 

definately not a honda (30 mins on the ground, 2hrs later driving)...I guess that's the price you pay for motoring

Joe

 

Wear items are covered to 36,000. That said it is probably not the clutch but the flywheel which should definitely be covered. While you are there have them measure the brake pads. The are most assuredly worn past the specs to have them replaced under warranty too.

Rich

 

Really? That's cool! I'll give the local service center a call. BTW, is there any documentation for this in case I have to make a case to the service rep?

Thanks!

Bob

 

I have an '03 and am now out of warranty since the original purchase date was in January '03.

There is a difference between free maintenance and warranty coverage -

Free maintenance on the 03s was 3 yrs/36K, with an option to buy a 1 yr extension to last through the full warranty period. I did and it covered all the work done at Inspection 1. I don't know as if I saved much as a result since my brakes were still within specs and clutch was ok through the end of the maintenance period, but I got it primarily to take care of whatever might have come up at Inspection 1 and it did. Maybe you'll be lucky and find that the previous owner extended the maintenance like I did.

Warranty is 4 yrs/50K. As the previous poster said, the clutch, brake pads, etc. are not warranty items, but the flywheel is. It wouldn't hurt to see if what is causing the problem is a warranty item.

Either way, get whatever you need to get taken care of under warranty done while you still can! There were things that my local dealer found during the warranty period that I didn't even know needed fixing, like a broken strut mount and leaky coolant bottle. And of course I went back several times for various squeaks, creaks and rattles, but frankly I did a better job of fixing those myself with the help of this forum than my dealer did. But they sure tried, several times, all under warranty.

You should have a service/warranty book with your owner's manual. Also, when the dealer reads your key (or VIN) they will be able to tell you all the work that has been done to the car as well as what service/warranty coverage you have remaining.

 

take a look at the post in drivetrain (turbo conversion started ) it's quite a read with great pics .

 

Depending on when the car was purchased it still may be covered under the maintenace warranty which should cover the clutch too as well as the brakes.

That said does the car actually shutter or is it a screech with no real shutter? If it screeches then it is most definetely the flywheel and shouid be covered. But many dealers don't make it easy. For instance here in NJ, Morristown Mini tried to get me to agree to let them take it apart and if it was the clutch, I paid the whole bill. And if it was the flywheel it was on their dime. The problem is that they KNEW that you can't see the problem with the flywheel on visual inspection. Then I brought it to Prestige Mini. They heard the sound once and it was fixed in two days. I did pay for clutch parts (about $300) as I figured that since they were in there already then they might as will replace them. It is around an $1800 repair retail. And if you t hink that MINI corporate will be any help you are wrong. They defer to the dealer. If the dealer wants to cover it, it is covered. If not. NOT.

So whatever is done should be done quickly. And again, I have not seen a Cooper S yet that didn't have the brakes under the minimums at 36000 to have them replaced too. And on mine and one other friend there was a stuck caliper at that point as well. I shutter to think what it would have cost out of warranty.

FWIW—Rich

 

It's definitely a shudder, no screeching that I can hear. I talked with the local mini dealer (BMW of Murray in Salt Lake City, UT) and they basically told me it wasn't covered, whether it was the flywheel or not, because they would assume that any flywheel damage was caused by the previous owner burning up the clutch. I didn't buy the car from them so they weren't very interested in being accomodating. ~$1500 for just the clutch, $2300 for clutch + flywheel. Ouch! I got the clutch parts from Moss Mini and was planning on taking it to an independant mechanic I know who will do it for a lot less. Do you think I'm taking a significant risk by not having it done by someone who doesn't work on Minis that much? (He's a pretty head's-up mechanic, though, on other things I've had him do). I'm assuming he would do it better and faster than I would, though.

Thanks,

Bob

 

It is not a simple job and took the guys who did mine 5 hours to do and he does them all the time. I expect the first one to take over a day assuming that all the books and tools were available.

That said while I was in there I would definitely replace the flywheel too. Not that it will look bad but there has been an update and the new ones don't make the squeal if they were prone to that. There were lots of '03s with that problem.

I think there are plenty of great independent mechanics out there and great shops that can work on a MINI. There may even be some folks around with a recommendation in Utah.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

Rich

 

Well, the car is in the shop and the clutch is toast, and I mean well-done toast! Here are a couple of pictures. Question - the mechanic thinks the flywheel can be machine surfaced and will be just fine. Anyone disagree? It would save about $300 over a new OEM flywheel. Also including a picture of a happier day . This is after 33K miles (I've only had it for 2 weeks/500 miles!) The previous owner was obviously not very nice to the clutch.

 

holy smokes, you took the motor out too. what the heck for.

 

Having done this job myself, it is like 5 minutes to get the engine out onnce you are taking the trans out. It is only held in the car by the passenger side hydraulic mount, the wiring harness and the exhaust manifold. Probably makes doiing the clutch 10x easier too.

 

I have done this as well and will do it again in a couple of weeks. It is definitely not 5 more minutes to do the whole thing. Coolant hoses w/refill and bleed, a/c lines + recharge, header, engine mounts and electrical connectors. I'm not trying to be rude, but that is not five more minutes or ten times easier.

To each thier own, I suppose.

 

BTW, I'm not doing this myself - I took it to a mechanic who decided it was easier to work with the clutch/tranny with the engine out as not. I'm paying stock labor rate, so he can do so if he wants. The AC is still fully attached and sealed, but I thought that you had to take the radiator off with the front part of the car anyway, so coolant refill/bleed was going to be part of the game anyway?

Bob

 

As you note, I did say the header had to come off. Also there is a sigle motor mount holding it in the car. You do not have to pull the A/C system. I agree you have to fill and re-bleed the coolant system, but to gain maximum access to the transmission you have to pull the radiator anyway.....so yeah....maybe it is more than the "5 minutes" I said, but I was being a bit silly. Considering how much you pull off the car and how much time it takes, it is realtively a minimal amount of work to pull the engine compared to pulling just the trans and the clutch.

As you said to each their own though, and good luck with you next project!

 

Go with a new rotor.... Might as well replace it while you have it out. 300 bucks for piece of mind.

 

Thanks, I think I will time this one and see how fast I am now that I have been working on them for a few years. I know don't have to disconnect the a/c, but it looks like this mechanic did. when you leave the motor in the car, the radiator and hoses don't have to be removed, just tilted foward after the bumper is taken off. I agree that removing the motor will give you more access, but to what? I didn't have any trouble leaving the motor in. Infact, it was one the easier transmissions I have removed (just the tranny, not the complete job).
I'll take longer look at it this time around, but I just can't see it being easier this way. I don't know any dealership guys that do it that way either.

 

Oh I agree a shop and a dealer would leave it in. The advantage to atking it out is, unless you have a lift, the engine stand gets it all up off the ground and out of the dirt compared to jack stands. Which is the way I did it BTW. I personally would not pull the motor to do it, but my only point was you are doing so darn much to get to the thing it is comparatively simple to take the engine out from that point.

I have only done 1 on a MINI but several VWs. We should start a thread: Fastest clutch swap in the west!

 

If someone else decides to pull the motor here are a couple of tips, the subframe can remain in place but the tie rod ball joint still needs to be popped and the steering knuckle disconnected at the outer ball joint so the drive shafts can be pulled out from the gear box. Mid shaft removal is difficult with the subframe in place and access to the powersteering connectors is a bit harder also. The AC heat exchanger can be hung from the left chassis extension and the compressor placed on something for support. This photo is from another project but it illustrates what can be done with the AC heat exchanger.


I have also seen an engine removed without removing the radiator support, bumper, and cover; it was on a wrecked vehicle where not much care had to be taken and the hood was damaged enough to fold back on the windshield.

If anyone cares to look at my link in post# 3 it can be seen the coolant system remained intact for transmission removal.

According to a local MINI tech the flywheel can not be resurfaced but it is their policy to replace rather than rebuild for many repairs. I can see the removed flywheel is an older version so from my experience it’s worth getting the updated model but that is a budget decision you would know best to make. I also believe the guide tube should be replaced when installing a new clutch if it looks like the older version in my link.

 

Great info as always

I have my stock dual mass and I could be convinced to part with it if someone is interested in it. Still in great shape and only 22k miles on it.

 

I strongly suggest that you get a new flywheel. If he cuts it and it squeals or destroys the new clutch it will cost lots more than the $300 for the part.

Let me say again that "I, personally, strongly suggest...."

And in response to another post I think we used to change a clutch in our '69 Camaro with a floor jack but air tools in under 40 minutes not even rushing. Take out the driveshaft. 4 bolts on the crossmember removed. Undo the shift and pedal linkage, the bell housing bolts and slide the tranny back. We used to change the flywheel depending on grip. We could change rear end gears really quickly too. 4:11 to 5:13 almost on the way to a money run. I think we used to say we stopped for gas. <G>

Rich (old and really would want that Z back in his life again)