Follow up - my MCS is back in my garage tonight with a new clutch. Very smooth with no noise, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that we're good to go for quite a while.

First off, a big thanks to all those who responded to this thread! You've been very helpful. Now Rich W will probably kick my butt , but I did not put in a new flywheel. I actually wanted to given his (and other's) advice, but time constraints from the mechanic (didn't want to wait for the part to be shipped in) and his assurance that the flywheel was flat and quite usable convinced me to keep the old one. He polished the surface but no machining at the machine shop. Plus he said he would do the labor for half price if in fact there was a problem that turned out to be the flywheel - so we both take on some risk and we both gain if everything works out.

The take-up point on the clutch is now much lower to the floor. I'm assuming this is because the clutch disk actually has some wear material on it now? Makes it a little more touchy to drive, but I assume I'll get used to it. Also may be indicative of the state of wear before - it was probably slipping and I didn't know that was not normal.

Another relatively minor thing - the radiator support (big plastic piece that goes all the way across the front of the car and holds the radiator and fan) was broken on one side, too, and that was replaced during the process. It seems kind of strange that such a large piece holding the radiator would be made out of plastic!? This looks like a relatively common problem when I searched the forums - someone recommended rockauto.com to get a replacement, which I used. They were quick and a good price!

On a final note, the dealer I bought the car from offered to split the cost of the repair with me, so that's a good thing. I only had the car a week when the clutch went, so even though they are legally liable for nothing, they're willing to go that far. I'm pleased they're coming through on that (Ken Garff Porsche-Audi in Orem, UT, if anyone's interested).

Now, on to getting the window motor fixed. That should definitely be under warranty!

 

Nope. No but kicking from me. I am a pacifist who believes in collecting all available input and then making a descision and assuming the consequences of that decision. Hopefully all is well and the flywheel is good.

I found with my new clutch that the pedal was softer and the techs suggested that all the clutches after 2003 were softer. I don't think about it now 15,000 miles later.

Kudos to you mechanic and the dealer you got the car from. It looks like a happy ending (mostly but it did cost you) to this one for a change.

Rich

 

What did the mechanic end up charging you for the clutch swap? Not including the new radiator support and the dealership paying half?

 

I own a 2000 Mini Cooper with 280k miles. Since the original clutch was replaced, I've had repeated problems with it. Going to first is really hard and the second gear is no better. Shifting 3 - 5 is really easy. I've only had one mechanic tell me it is the transmission. All others say it's the clutch and I've replaced the clutch. The most recent replacement was in September '17 and the problem is back again. Any advice?

 

What year is your car? Not 2000 . . .

 

Sorry! It's an '03.

 

Given your miles and the recent clutch replacement, assuming it is done right, worn synchromeshes are likely the cause. How long they last depends heavily on the driver, and the quality of the gearbox. I assume it is a Midland.

 

Disregard. Answered my own question.

 

"Another relatively minor thing - the radiator support (big plastic piece that goes all the way across the front of the car and holds the radiator and fan) was broken on one side, too, and that was replaced during the process. It seems kind of strange that such a large piece holding the radiator would be made out of plastic!? This looks like a relatively common problem when I searched the forums - someone recommended rockauto.com to get a replacement, which I used. They were quick and a good price!"

I've had to replace two radiator supports due to cracking in the same place (lower passenger side where the radiator pin goes in). Using my Tarheel MINI Club discount, in both instances, I found the best price for OEM was from my local dealership. They had two in stock which tells me it's a fairly common attrition part.