I have a 2003 MCS and I am looking for information on getting into Autox. Can someone explain the classes to me and what is allowed / no allowed to compete against other minis and cars of the same class?

If I go with 15 inch wheels those are not stock for an MCS which would move me out of a stock class right? Also what mods are allowed. I have done an intake and plan on a 15% SC pulley. What class does that put me in?

Are there any sites out there that explains the classes etc...

Thanks,
K

 

I would start by checking with the local AutoX club/sanctioning body. They would have the info. You can also check out the SCCA website for info on classes and such.

 

EDIT: Right now you're in STX (because of the intake)

If you do the pulley, you'll skip right over STX and DSP, and go straight to Street Mod without collecting $200.


The following isn't meant to be all inclusive, but rather a basic overview of the SCCA Classing related to the MINI. The 2007 SCCA Solo Rules (PDF link) dictate explicitely what can and can not be done to the cars in each class and which cars can race in which classes.


Stock -> Street Touring -> Street Prepared -> Street Modified

Classing generally follows the path outlined above, with each class generally permitting more modifications (the major exception being tires).

Stock Class

COOPER = H-Stock (HS)
COOPER S = G-Stock (GS)
06 JCW = B-Stock (BS)

Permitted Modifications

• Any Struts - including adjustable damping
• Any FRONT swaybar
• Panel Air Filter
• Cat-back exhaust
• Harnesses (Quick-fit or similar) and C.G. Locks
• Wheels must be stock size and stock offset within 5mm. This means 15x5.5 and 16x6.5 for the MC and 16x6.5 and 17x7 for the MCS.
• R-compound Tires - Hoosier A6, Kumho V710, or similar. Street tires are also acceptable, but won't be very competitive since race tires are permitted in this class.
• Brake pads may be replaced
• Spare tire and tool kit may be removed
• Roll bars or roll cages may be added
• airbags may not be removed

Basically, that's about the extent of the modifications that can be done. Lowering Springs, Rear Sway Bars, camber plates, camber links, cone filters, lighter seats, interior gutting, headwork, cams, engine dampeners, USS, Strut Braces, BBK's, brake stiffeners, slotted rotors, etc..... ARE NOT PERMITTED IN STOCK CLASS.



Street Touring

COOPER = Street Touring Stock (STS)
COOPER S = Street Touring Extreme (STX)

Permitted Modifications

• All of the STOCK class modifications with the exception of tires
• Tires in street touring must have a wear rating above 140
• Tires may but up to 225 wide in STS and 245 wide in STX.
• Wheels may be up to 7.5" wide for STS and 8.0" wide for STX
• Coilovers, rear swaybars, camber plates, camber links, are all OK in STS.
• You may have non stock seats, but you must still have the same number of functional seats. This means you can not gut your interior, but you may put in lighter racing buckets if you'd like.
• The air conditioning may be removed.
• Cone filters are acceptable
• Spoilers/splitters may be added
• cross drilled/slotted rotors
• lightweight batteries are ok as long as voltage remains the same
• batteries may be relocated
• Limited Slip Differentials may be added (STX)

Street Prepared

COOPER = F Street Prepared (FSP)
COOPER S and JCW and JCW GP = D Street Prepared (DSP)

Permitted Modifications

• Anything permitted in Stock or Street Touring is basically ok in Steet Prepared.
• Race Tires may be used
• Any wheel width, size, or offset may be used
• Cross drilled and slotted rotors are ok, BBK's are not.
• Bump stops may be altered or removed

Street Modified

COOPER = Street Modified (SM)
COOPER S = Street Modified (SM)

Permitted Modifications

• All stock, street touring, and street prepared modifications are permitted.
• IF YOU HAVE AN MCS WITH AN AFTERMARKET REDUCTION PULLEY YOUR MINI IS IN STREET MODIFIED.
• BBK's
• Cams and head work

*** IF YOU HAVE A JCW GP: currently the only class you are permitted to run in is DSP

 

Dave: Only the 06 JCW is in B-Stock, because it was a "built at the factory" option. The 05's were still dealer add-ons, and don't qualify for a stock class.

(From the SCCA 2007 Rulebook)
Mini
Cooper S (John Cooper
“Works” package) (‘06+)

 

Fixed. Thanks

 

Ummm, street mod does not allow interior gutting or window removal, it also has no restrictions on wheels. You can remove the back seat, but all the rest of the interior trim must remain.

In the Street touring part, add "in STX" to the line about LSD's

 

Actually, even the intake bumps you out of G-Stock. In GS, you're allowed to replace just the filter with another brand of *panel filter* (i.e. K&N or another filter that's the same size/shape as stock), or you can remove the filter entirely, but anything else bumps you to at least STX.

Also, while the list you posted is great, I would also suggest asking around about any particular part *before* buying and installing it. For instance, adjustable rear control arms are legal for the MINI in STX, but you can only replace ONE pair - either upper or lower - but not both. Also, the control arms have to have the same type of bushing as stock, so while the H-sport arms would be fine, since they use a cylindrical rubber bushing like the factory arms, the Alta control arms wouldn't be allowed because they use heim-joint rod ends.

 

For SCCA-
In the past:
Street Touring U (STU)is possible for a modified MCS as in STX but no limit on wheel width. Max tire width 275mm.

And I think you can run your MINI in the next higher more competitive class legally if you want to. You PAX number will be less favorable and your competition will be tougher.

So a stock MC can run in H-stock but could also run in STS with street tires or in FSP with any tires but otherwise be stock. Sometimes drivers will do this to collect points in that class during the season then make some mods that put them in the higher class at some later point. Naturally if they are not competitive at all then it doesn't make any sense and they can stay in a stock class.

Some drivers are driving alone in a respective class and wish to compete against others so they will voluntarily bump themselves up to another class.

Make a note that for Street Modified class all you need to get bumped into this highly competitive class is-
Any big brake kit
Any reduction pulley (Any increased engine boost)
Even if everything else is kept stock.

Once you pull out the interior panels then you get put into some other even more competitive class. There can be weight restrictions and limits.

MC and Austin Morris Cooper 1275 falls into E Prepared class
MCS falls into F Prepared class.

 

Is a 2006 JCW MCS factory installed eligible for

STX???? using street tires of course.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=71688
You can't change the JCW pulley.

It's official JCW MCS can be in STX
http://www.scca.com/_FileLibrary/Fil...nufacturer.pdf
See page two qualifying cars under MINI.

 

Dave,

Thanks for that summary of the rules as applied to the Minis!

One tiny hair splitting correction?

"Tires in street touring must have a wear rating above 140"

Isn't that 140 or higher? Most ST* tires are 140 right on the nose (or so claim the manufacturers)...

 

Which brands are those? Most of the popular ST-class tires I've seen used have ratings up around 200 or higher. I've always kind of wondered why there weren't more choices in the "barely legal" area, like 140-160.

 

Several good Max Performance summer tires are tread rated 200

Falken Azenis Rt-615
Hankook Ventus Rs2 Z212

But there are some others also good and rated 140 treadwear.

Max Performance Summer tire-
Bridgestone Potenza RE050A Pole Position
205/55-16 $122
225/50-16 $128
225/45-17 $123

And Extreme Performance summer tire-
Bridgestone Potenza RE01R
195/50-15 $106
205/45-16 $151
205/55-16 $117
225/50-16 $122
205/45-17 $155
215/45-17 $164
225/45-17 $135

Manufacturers are probably more interested in advertising Max Performance tires with tread ratings of 200 or higher just for the longer tread life it implies. A 140 or 180 rating just shows you relatively that the rubber is very soft and they aren't hiding the fact.

Your actual mileage will vary, depends on how much front camber you have and how your drive, what your tire pressures are.

In Street touring classes it is legal to have-
Wider than stock rims (STS up 7.5" wide, STX up to 8" wide)
Front adjustable camber plates
Rear adjustable lower control arms
Rear adjustable sway bar
Upgraded shocks and lowering springs
Strut tower brace
Added LSD (STX or STU only)

So you can make very good use of street rubber.

 

Does a rear seat delete push a 2007 MCS into Street Modified?

Where does a JCW strut (engine bay) put it?

Tried my first-ever autox Sunday, but couldn't figure out what class I belonged in. I ran for no points, which was fine for a first time, but I'd like to know where I belong.

 

Rear seat delete alone puts any MINI into Street Mod class - not worth it.

List your upgrades and PM me.

JCW strut by itself is not legal for stock classes.
Street touring X or D Street Performance OK.

Any MINI can run in Street Mod class for points but you'll be at a big disadvantage.

 

YES

Anywhere above Stock: STX, DSP, SM, etc

Ditch the Strut bar (it doesn't do anything), put the seats back in and run G Stock.

 

While the tower strut bar comes in handy when gliding over potholes it's not the most effective mod for autocrossing. It is easily removed if you want.

Robin,

Your sig shows-
Bombadil: MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Custom Wood Shift *****, Rota RB 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
and I think you have some audio upgrades.

The shift **** needs to be stock if you run in any stock class.
The wheels will need to be stock sized if you run stock class (G stock).

If you keep the shift **** and Rota 16x7 wheels then you can run in-
STX and have tires that are rated at least 140 and up to 225mm wide and be legal. In that case keep the strut bar.

Even changing pedals puts you out of stock class.
What about air intake, suspension, and brakes- any upgrades?

If you do have rear seat delete and want to keep it you can run in Street Mod and then just do whatever you want. It'll be all for fun.

 

Here is what my rear seat delete project looks like:



https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=117453

While it can be removed, it is a big job and not something I want to do before every autox. So, I'm probably stuck with Street Modified.

Removing the strut means either leaving it off, or buying new nuts to put it back. It uses special one-use nuts.

No way am I giving up my shift *****.

The wheels I use for autox are CenterLine RPM 17x7 which is the size my car came with. Tires are Michelin Pilot Exhalto PE2 that are annoyingly loud on the poor quality asphalt of Monterey County roads. I no longer include the CenterLines in my sig because their F rating with the BBB, finish quality, and reputation for cracking makes me not want to endorse them.

I'll do autox for the fun of it and not go for points. The UFO AutoX group allows that. So, mods that would improve the fun are what I'm looking for.

Is it true that a rear sway bar helps neutralize the steering by reducing traction in the rear?

 

You're adding alot of extra weight with your audio upgrades but at least it's in the back and helps balance out the front to rear weight ratio.

I do the rear seat delete to loose weight and run an 11 lb battery and 1/8 tank gas.

Yes, the stiffer than stock rear sway bar is often the first upgrade to improve overall handling in corners by reducing understeer inherent in all FWD cars. The goal is to make the handling more neutral but finding just enough stiffening to control the understeer given your suspension and driving skill.

In Street Mod class you can have numerous suspension mods to help with handling. Most of us try to max out on suspension tuning and adjustments in an effort to make the best use of power gains. Power without improved suspension is nearly "wasted". Front strut bar is not one of the recommended suspension upgrades to start with.

17x7 Centerline RPMs are fine and qualify for stock wheels.
Pilot Exalto PE2s are good street tires but not the best choice for autocross. They don't have the level of grip needed for cornering at speed plus you have stock front and rear camber which means you can't make use of the full width of the tire, only the outer and middle tread zones.

I run 17x7 centerline RPMs for my funruns with Bridgestone Potenza RE091s in 205/45-17. These are my practice tires and saved for only autocross and for wet competition. Street tires are stock 15" MINI on stock Holey rims.

You can stay in SM class and blast your music to temporarily disorient your competition just before they drive.

 

My calculations indicate that it added 20 or 30 lbs. including the Dynamat. The birch plywood is fairly thin because it is so strong, and the speakers were actually lighter than stock, due to special magnets.

I'm afraid that street use takes precedence over autox. So, I'll have to live with the extra weight. The wear & tear of removing the cabinet (on the cabinet and me) would make an autox event more trouble than it was worth.

Sounds like an adjustable 19mm rear sway bar would be the first thing to do. Is the Alta a good choice? Or, are others preferred?

I don't have any engine mods in mind at this time.

I'll be happy when they wear out. I don't like them for street. Next time, I'll get something more appropriate.

Probably need a sub for that.

 

You're doing fantastic on weight then. I have some audio mods (two amps, JL stealthbox, front and rear speakers-MB Quarts, and cascade audio DB-Max deadening in three layers). I can only remove the sub and it's very heavy. I tried removing the heavy Xtant amp but kept having trouble with it so now I just leave it in for ballast. New amps don't have to be heavy, I have a Boston GT-20 that is very light to power my sub. It's under my passenger seat.

Your priorities are straight- street comes first and that is fine. It's when you trying to balance too many things that it can get complicated or just plain compromised.

You have many options on rear sway bars. They don't vary that much but the Alta Bar in either 19mm or 22mm will work. For the average MCS owner the 19mm bar is good. All three holes are usable. You don't need the stiffest one for every driver, start with the softest setting and work your way up. It doesn't help with any straightline driving, only hard cornering or slaloms.

Engine mods- This is easy. You can leave things alone which is fine, or:

Drop in a new air filter just for autocross- A dirty filter is bad.

The Centerlines I have had since 2004. The RPM in older style had fluted spokes seen from the inside but the newest has solid spokes and is 1.5 lbs heaver per wheel. The new design is more durable. I cracked two of the older ones and they were replaced. I have two of each design and I actively use them in pairs on each axle. I say drive hard on them, wear them out and replace them.

No sub yet? Shucks.

On the autocrossing- walk the course a lot. Think about what to do and where to go. Watch the experienced drivers a lot. Be ready to make adjustments and changes as needed. Keep as straight ahead as you can and don't make wide turns unless you have to (in slaloms just head straight). Slow hands on the steering wheel will allow you to conserve movement and keep a better line but it takes practice. Study the fastest areas of the course and plan to enter those areas as fast as possible. Look for the slowest areas on the course and respect them, slow down enough and exit fast, entering a slow curve too fast is a big mistake. Always try to be smoother and always look far far far ahead.

 

07+ MINI JCW DEALER INSTALLED engine kit is where? STX?

 

The rule book includes the JCW in STX and DSP without restrictions. so Yes.

 

The biggest advise i always neglected when i was learning was to walk to course at least 4 times. And doing chit chat on your walks unless your with your co pilot. Walk it on break also.

I like working the course before i run...i can watch the cones and see which ones need to be taken flat out.

 

Just changing the shift ****, not the shiter mechanisim, moves you out of GS? That seems a bit extreme. Considering the shift **** for my Ranger would come off in your hand on the 1-2 shift, not that crazy, but wow.

 

in the case of the MINI, replacing the shift **** does not provide a performance benefit. In the 2nd Gen MR2, a replacement shift **** can be 2 inches shorter than the stock one, effectively becoming a short shift kit.

Since the rules can't be car specific, there are many things like this that are not allowed.