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They aren't too many and some of them I already have from previous projects. The only expensive part was the transmission ($500). The rest is about as much. The left overs will be carried to the next project, like the alternator for example.
For the past few days, I was trying to figure out why the car wasn't moving right. When you put it in gear (D), it engages and it feels it wants to go, but it won't. It felt like someone was applying the brakes!!!
I noticed once the car warms up, it drives but still with resistance/weakness. The tranny has 40k on it and the TC was filled with ATF!
Well, sometimes you have to make sure things are checked regardless what the vendor/seller claims...The transmission was 2.75qrts less of ATF. Once filled to the right level, the car was driving like hot rods.
Now it is time to button her up
Last edited by MiniToBe; Feb 16, 2018 at 12:31 PM.
quick update...the rear windows and locks and trunk lock were not responsive. Took the panels out and with some lubricant, they are back in business. I'll post some pix soon.
I just read this thread for the first time. I am impressed and in awe of your patience. Some people do sudoku puzzles, you do flooded Minis. I am happy that you are still enjoying the car and driving it. Are all the evil electronic demons exorcised? And to anyone who says that salvaging a car and selling it is wrong: haven’t you heard of a “salvage title”? Too many Internet lawyers! Besides, caveat emptor.
Is it hard to program cabin fuse box? I am replacing one on a 2012 Clubman S , the used one i purchased was from a 2009 Clubman S no sunroofs. What are the hurdles with replacing these fuse boxes?
Is it hard to program cabin fuse box? I am replacing one on a 2012 Clubman S , the used one i purchased was from a 2009 Clubman S no sunroofs. What are the hurdles with replacing these fuse boxes?
The process is straight forward. You need winfkp and ncs expert or ISTAP. Does the used fuse box match your part number? Are the the fuses filled like yours?
MiniToBe, speaking of heated seats. I've had some problem lately with my heated seats. Just recently the driver side intermittently works. At first I thought that for sure the element had just got broken on that side but when it does work it works just like new. No hot spots or anything. I can push and reseat myself as much as I want and it will stay on when it does work. Other times it gets luke warm at best. Continuity on all 4 seating elements are OK so I don't think its a broken element anywhere. Battery is new and I am getting full voltage. I noticed some erratic behavior on the windows at times ( going down when I hit up) and sometimes I have to hit the fog light switch twice to activate. I'm wondering if the center controller switch is flaking out on me. No faults come up on my Schwaben scanner . Any advice on next steps? I was going to trace the wires between the seat and the switch and then to the JBE.
I think its about time for me to invest in a ISTAP setup. I have 3 minis in the family now and the handheld scanner has served me well but I'm ready for the next level. I'd like to be able to reprogram my own modules when they decide to go south. Your posts give me something to strive toward. Thanks as always.
MiniToBe, speaking of heated seats. I've had some problem lately with my heated seats. Just recently the driver side intermittently works. At first I thought that for sure the element had just got broken on that side but when it does work it works just like new. No hot spots or anything. I can push and reseat myself as much as I want and it will stay on when it does work. Other times it gets luke warm at best. Continuity on all 4 seating elements are OK so I don't think its a broken element anywhere. Battery is new and I am getting full voltage. I noticed some erratic behavior on the windows at times ( going down when I hit up) and sometimes I have to hit the fog light switch twice to activate. I'm wondering if the center controller switch is flaking out on me. No faults come up on my Schwaben scanner . Any advice on next steps? I was going to trace the wires between the seat and the switch and then to the JBE.
I think its about time for me to invest in a ISTAP setup. I have 3 minis in the family now and the handheld scanner has served me well but I'm ready for the next level. I'd like to be able to reprogram my own modules when they decide to go south. Your posts give me something to strive toward. Thanks as always.
JB
it is hard to tell...as you mentioned, there are four components to this; the controller, the fuse box, the module under the seat, the heating element. since you eliminated the heating element, you may try to swap the modules under the seats and see if that solves the issue, if not then you move the next thing up, the fuse box.
ISTAP is for automated programming and coding and your involvement is limited. you can add ISTAD (this will read ALL modules in your car and walk you though solving the issue step by step. you can also use it to clear adaptations and look at live data) to your list along with NCS expert and WinfKp.
