D Stock Rear camber setting on 1/1/05 MCS?
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4th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 393
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From: East Tennessee
Rear camber setting on 1/1/05 MCS?
Well, the shop that does my custom alignments just called and wants to know where I want the rear camber set? I took my own specs in and gave them what has been reccommended by Brian G. and others. (A little toe-out up front and a little toe-in out back
) My mechanic says the rear IS adjustable. Being my first MINI, I'm not sure what to do. On other FWD cars I have built, -1.5 front camber and -1.0 rear camber has worked pretty good for an autocross/street car, but if my MINI only has -0.5-0.75 in the front, and I can't change it, then where should the rear camber be set? ZERO?
I guess I need to know where the front camber is first.?
This is a completely stock MCS w/LSD intended for G stock running on 16" R compound tires. No adjustable shocks yet, so I need to get this right.
Also, I have no idea where to start with tire preasure on this car.? I'm running 215/40/16 V710's if that helps.
Do you need to run different tire preasure for concrete?
Much appriciated.
CB
I guess I need to know where the front camber is first.?
This is a completely stock MCS w/LSD intended for G stock running on 16" R compound tires. No adjustable shocks yet, so I need to get this right.
Also, I have no idea where to start with tire preasure on this car.? I'm running 215/40/16 V710's if that helps.
Do you need to run different tire preasure for concrete?
Much appriciated.
CB
Wiggles,
I'd shoot for 1.0 to 1.3 degrees of negative camber in the rear. That's what was recommended to me by a previous National-level competitor with an H/S Mini.
From what I've heard on other FWD cars, I'd start with mid-40s on the 710.
Jim Z
I'd shoot for 1.0 to 1.3 degrees of negative camber in the rear. That's what was recommended to me by a previous National-level competitor with an H/S Mini.
From what I've heard on other FWD cars, I'd start with mid-40s on the 710.
Jim Z
Jim, the previous cars were not adjustable, and generally came out around -.5 front, -1.0 rear.
With this setup, completely stock, you had to run higher rear pressures for rotation (or have adjustable shocks).
So now that the camber is adjustable, I would have to assume you want to dial out some to get rotation, especially since the rear gains negative camber under compression (unlike the front
). I'd rather run identical pressures all the way around, with less negative camber in the rear to get the rotation.
As a matter of fact, I'm going to probably leave the rear toed-in 1/8th, front toed-out 1/16th, and run exactly the same negative camber front and rear (what ever the front is, match it in the rear). I'll start there and see what the rotation is like.
I'd much rather gain rotation from negative camber changes than with toe or tire pressures.
I look forward to competing with you!
Brian
With this setup, completely stock, you had to run higher rear pressures for rotation (or have adjustable shocks).
So now that the camber is adjustable, I would have to assume you want to dial out some to get rotation, especially since the rear gains negative camber under compression (unlike the front
). I'd rather run identical pressures all the way around, with less negative camber in the rear to get the rotation.As a matter of fact, I'm going to probably leave the rear toed-in 1/8th, front toed-out 1/16th, and run exactly the same negative camber front and rear (what ever the front is, match it in the rear). I'll start there and see what the rotation is like.
I'd much rather gain rotation from negative camber changes than with toe or tire pressures.
I look forward to competing with you!
Brian
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