Thanks David.

I have the front track rods callibrated and an effective measuring tool made from 2 adjustable tee squares so I can play with front toe easily. I will try your more radical settings. It seems that with the stiff bar on the back I can get away with 0 toe and still will get enough rotation.

I have noticed some instability under braking. Not something I want on the track. Since it is hard to adjust that sounds like another good reason for less toe in the rear (and probably the front too).

Yes, I know I will have to use the Kumhos for STS, but there is great competition here at BMWCCA. They changed the Mini classifications this year you can go to a full blown STX set up and still run in class D. We are running in the faster CS class and have been mixing it up with some very quick 318is and 325is. See http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/results/autocross.asp

It makes me think of running in DSP; while not very competitve it would be a whole lot of fun. The SCCA move to more ST classes is a great idea but if they freed us up to use R compound it would be even better. After 1/2 a season in GS I feel that it is unnatural to have to burn up expensive tires because you cant add a bit of camber.

BTW, I like the the RDR camber plates. There is no caster adjustment but I dont miss that. The top bearing is a lot like stock, a lot less movement that with the Kmac. I can get 2 degrees without any steering clunks using stock springs. They are easy to adjust so you can have street and race setting. Beware, moving the camber from stock to -2deg requires one full turn of the track rod ends to get rid of the 1/4 inch-toe in caused by changing the camber.

Malcolm

 

Starting the season with:
1. H-sport camber plates set at maximum negative.
2. H-sport 25mm hollow rear bar.
3. 215/45 x 16 Azenis on stock 16" x-lites.
4. Stock front bar, shocks and springs.
5. 0 toe rear, 1/16" toe out front.
6. No LSD

The H-sport bar is adjustable. What rear bar setting should I start with? Half of the season is run on the short and tight Tire Rack Test Track, and the other half will be at "big-track" Peru/Grissom CENDIV events.

Are adjustable end links necessary with a standard height suspension? (I'd rather spend the $ on Evo school.)

Getting parts, need knowledge.:smile:

Mark

 

Looks like I wont be in STX this year. In a moment of weakness last year I put my name down for a Lotus Elise. Well it turned up last week, ran it on the track at Sebring. It is a natural progression from the MCS, fast turn-in very predictable throttle steering and soooo much acceleration.

I will still run the 04 MCS in BMW events. With Quaife, Ledas, 15 x 7.5 SSRs and Kumho MX, Hsport rear links and RDR camber plates it will be perfect for STX
Any offers?

 

Minifinn,

I run my rear sway bar at the stiffest setting, which gives the best traction out of the turns. It also lets you rotate the car by lifting off the throttle quickly.


Down sides? The above option for oversteer if you aren't paying attention.

You don't need adjustable end links. Sounds like you are in the South Bend area. If you're getting the itch to autocross, our region's first event is February 27th, and the second is March 20th. Both are at Walesboro
Airport one exit south of Columbus, IN on I-65. See www.cscc-scca.org for details and a map. Steve Tamandli and Jim McKamey occasionally come down for our events early and late in the season, as we run from February through November.

Good luck this season.

Scott
90SM/STX

 

Scott,

Thanks for the advise and invite. The southern part of Indiana has a MUCH shorter winter than here. Wish I could travel like Jim and Steve (off track or on track ). I rode in Tamandli's FrankenFiero last year just for grins and I'm still grinning. That car is too fast, especially with someone like Kim Bollinger driving it at Nats. I have a lot to learn. Maybe I'll see you this year at Grissom or Converse.

Good luck to you also

Mark
59 STX

 

Minifinn

Scott is right on the swaybar, especially about the lift throttle oversteer in the corners. That can be used for good as long as it doesn't suprise you. I say try it in the middle as well and see if you can tell the difference.

David

 

Malcolm:

Congrats on the new Elise - I'm sure you will have a blast with it. I'm not interested in another MCS just yet, put if you're selling the 15x7.5 SSRs i'd like to get in the front of the line.

David

 

David, I see that you're running -2.2 degrees camber in the front. Is there any reason you're not going with more, say -2.5ish? I've got the Webb camber plates that can be adjusted to -2.5 and I'm going to head in for an alignment soon... just wondering why you chose to not go with as much as you could.

Thanks!

 

Kyle,

More is not always better. Not all cars or courses are the same either. There is probably a MINI, a suspension setup, and a course that would find 2.5 degrees camber to be ideal. Get a pyrometer and find out what works for you.

For what it is worth, I've found that -2.2 and -1.8 works pretty well for my own setup.

Scott
90STX

 

Getting ready to get an alignment. I plan on 1/16" toe out in front. Will the alignment shop be able to understand this spec. Does this need to be converted to deg/min/sec or can I just tell them 1/16" toe out and get it right? They are also setting my camber (I'm installalling H-Sport plates the day before I go). The guy I'm going to is at a VW/Audi dealership and is supposed to know set-ups for auto-X.

I'm starting the season with stock springs/shocks and h-sport comp rear bar
1/16" toe out front
0 toe rear
-2.2 camber front

What else do I need to tell him?

 

You should be ok -- ask for a before and after print out showing the alignment details Do you mean 1/16" total toe out in the front or 1/16" per side. You might want to be that specific.