I was able to initially obtain close to one degree negative camber in front on my 2010 Justa by removing the plastic pins. However, after adding Bilstein HD struts and M7 strut top plates, I lost almost half a degree of that.

This is a street only car and I am just looking to get the front to 1 and 1/2 degees negative. It looks to me that one should be able to acheive this by simply elongating (grinding) the holes inboard in the strut towers that the strut studs fit through,and machining the holes in the M7 plates to allow them to be moved inboard.

I understand camber plates may be needed for more extreme negative camber settings, but I am puzzled why I have not read anything about simply elongating the holes.

Appreciate your input.

DOC

 

I don't know how this post went so long without a response, but I just noticed it.

Maybe elongating the upper strut holes hasn't been mentioned because it would be illegal for SCCA H Stock (where this thread is), but legal in Street Prepared classes, and up. Camber plates are also legal in SP classes, so they would be the preferred solution, but, if everything is clear for elongating the holes, my rough guess is that one could go from about -1.0 degrees OE to about -1.4 or so with something like a 1/4" inboard extension of the holes.

One big disadvantage of altering the strut holes is that it's non-reversible; the metal can be removed, but it can't be put back.

 

Jim,

Thanks for your reply. I ended up determining that I probably could not get 1.5 degrees negative at the ride height I wanted to run (relatively high) along with the M7 plates by just elongating the holes, so I went with the Ireland fixed camber plates.

The IEs further increased the front ride height a little more beyond what the Bilstein HDs did, but ended up yielding 1.4 degrees negative without having to touch the holes at all. Given the roads I drive on, a little extra front ride height over a stock Justa is just right for my situation.

I am rotating the tires every 3000 miles and the tire wear has been perfectly even, despite "leaning" on it from time to time. -1.4 front/-1 degree rear is surely not enough for autocross or track days, but seems good for this street only, commuter car.

Real racecars don't have fenders. (I've been a formula ford guy since 1973.)

Thanks again,

DOC

 

There are probably many SCCA stock class autocrossers who'd give up a body part for -1.4 legal degrees in front. Keep "leaning on it from time to time", just to ensure even tire wear.