Has anyone removed the immobilzer from their MINI?
I can bypass the starter circuit no problem. But does any one know what signal is required for the ECU or can this be deleted?

The manual states that the starter and ECU is disabled without the correct key. This is why my question on the ECU circuit.

 

A public forum would not be a good place for this question to be answered...

 

As I and others have gutted their cars for racing I feel that this would be the correct forum to answer this question. as I feel an open dialog of current racer and builders will help in getting more MINI's to the track for W2W racing.

BUT

I do understand your objection and had not thought of that when I orginally posted the question. So if anyone has the answer they can PM me. This way it will keep the bad guys from borrowing any of our beloved MINI's. Minimarks good catch.

I might have the solution but will test on one of our other MINI's in the next few days.

 

Hey Rich!

Will we see you at BW in October? Bob should be back in action by then. It would be great to have more Minis to go around with.

Cheers,
Jerry

 

That's the idea. Were have a problem with the EWS even the dealer is scratching their heads

 

I don't think there is any reason to actually remove it. Here is what we did . . .

Remove the ring from around the key on the steering column. Put the key through the hole . . . tape it in place and then tie wrap it under the dash. You will not have to deal with it again.

Randy

 

Thanks Randy. This is about what I've done, we're just having a problem with the system as no power is moving across the EWS for the starter or ECU. I hoping we tracked it down last night and will try again tonight.

My thought was if the EWS was causing problems, remove it. I can jump the starter and make that work, but after talking with the dealer, the signal from the EWS to the ECU is more then just voltage as it is sending coding that sync's both units that allows the starter and ecu to work.

 

This EWS and ECU stuff is some kind of magic pixie dust. The factory has it locked down tight. The best thing to do is accept it and just work around it.

Good Luck!

Randy

 

By the way . . . the EWS is VIN number specific and can only be programmed by the factory. You can go to your dealer and buy one after showing your VIN number. It takes a day or two to get it. You also need a matched key to that EWS. Get a valet key as it's cheaper.

Your description sounds like maybe the EWS has gone bad.

Randy

 

Hey Rich,

If you keep having issues then post again here and lets see what we can figure out. I might bet that the EWS is OK and it's just a wire issue.
The wiring of the Mini is not as scary as it may seem. Really somewhat simple usually. Being I have rewired 100% of my race car I may be able to help you out.
Yes, as Randy says, just leave the EWS installed.

Greg

 

We'll after spending most of the day tracing wires, reading wiring schematics, taring my hair out, using a few words that I can't repeat here. I found the problem. One of the wires going to the back of the fuse block had a break in it.

The symptoms were random. Break lights on, but no power to brake light switch or clutch switch, also no power on one circuit of the EWS. ECU had power and the master relay had power and was energized. Fuse FO2, 03,04,05 all had power.

When I found the broken wire and repaired all symptoms went away. Brake lights work correctly, And best of all it starts.

Greg, thanks for the encouragement, and Randy I went and got some pixie dust, sprinkled it all over the dash and wiring harness, I do believe this is what fixed the problem

 

Well done! We have all been there . . . .

 

Bro, my 05 mini s have d same symptoms and problems like yours can help me what wires do I look for or where,? Thanks in advance

 

There is a company that can remove the EWS from your ECU--need to send it in to have it done. Think it was $500 to have it done. http://www.rmsonlinestore.com/main.sc

I'll have an ecu with ews removed for sale in the new year (once Vipec is installed). Post it to the forum when available

 

Dude, I have been chasing the same symptoms, (years later lol) break lights engaging, no EWS no start, jumped starter, same moves. Which fuse block had the break? Engine bay or interior?

 

any info or help? Please PM me. I have a 2003 same issue.

 

It's a mini, but let's face it, it's a BMW, and European insurance companies regulate the standard. It's a 15 # rolling code that is stored on both the ECU and the EWS. Both modules are sync'd to click up one # together , each time the proper coded key cycles the ignition cylinder via the halo. If it detects an improper cycle (lock pick or uncoded key, wrong coded key or random dead battery...ugh ) only one module will click to the next number, leaving the vehicle inop. until the two modules are resync'd and the correct key used. There IS a program though..... with the correct adapter to a laptop OBDII to USB , and a download, and a closed course racing vehicle, and no more tears! Good luck, - Dr. Dave