R60 2C57 After Turbo Change
R60 2C57 After Turbo Change
Greetings,
I have a 2012 Countryman S All4 6 speed, 122k miles. I replaced the turbo, oil feed and return lines, oil filter housing gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, changed to a catless downpipe, upgraded Forge FMIC, intercooler muffler delete pipe (between turbo and intercooler) and finally noise maker delete pipe (on cold side connected to throttle body). I'm now chasing a weird issue with codes 2C57, 2C91, and 2CB3 codes. The car will go into limp mode and not build boost. I changed out the diverter valve on the new turbo with another one. Had boost for two drives then back to limp mode. Further troubleshooting, I've found that if pull the air intake pipe between the turbo and air box off and pull the vacuum line off the vacuum pump, I get a short hiss. Then I reconnect the vacuum line to the vacuum pump and put air intake hose back on and I have boost back, at least for few drives. So I'm wondering if I have a bad vacuum pump, vacuum lines or boost pressure control valve (the one under the manifold). I'm new to Mini's but not afraid to get my hands dirty and learn.
The turbo was a pulled from another R60 that was rear ended. The previous owner had paperwork for the turbo being replaced with odometer statement from a Mini dealer. The turbo had 4 months and 5500 miles on it, so I snagged it for $300. I tested the wastegate with a vacuum pump prior to install and it would seat fully with 14-15 hg of vacuum which I believe is in spec.
I'm ok with the possibility that the turbo could still be bad, however I'm torn as the car runs great and builds 17-18 PSI of boost when its working (according to Scangauge). So before I tear it back down, I thought I'd ask for thoughts here. Thank you.
Edit: I also changed spark plugs (NGK 97968) and coils (Delphi OEM) when I replaced the turbo.
I have a 2012 Countryman S All4 6 speed, 122k miles. I replaced the turbo, oil feed and return lines, oil filter housing gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, changed to a catless downpipe, upgraded Forge FMIC, intercooler muffler delete pipe (between turbo and intercooler) and finally noise maker delete pipe (on cold side connected to throttle body). I'm now chasing a weird issue with codes 2C57, 2C91, and 2CB3 codes. The car will go into limp mode and not build boost. I changed out the diverter valve on the new turbo with another one. Had boost for two drives then back to limp mode. Further troubleshooting, I've found that if pull the air intake pipe between the turbo and air box off and pull the vacuum line off the vacuum pump, I get a short hiss. Then I reconnect the vacuum line to the vacuum pump and put air intake hose back on and I have boost back, at least for few drives. So I'm wondering if I have a bad vacuum pump, vacuum lines or boost pressure control valve (the one under the manifold). I'm new to Mini's but not afraid to get my hands dirty and learn.
The turbo was a pulled from another R60 that was rear ended. The previous owner had paperwork for the turbo being replaced with odometer statement from a Mini dealer. The turbo had 4 months and 5500 miles on it, so I snagged it for $300. I tested the wastegate with a vacuum pump prior to install and it would seat fully with 14-15 hg of vacuum which I believe is in spec.
I'm ok with the possibility that the turbo could still be bad, however I'm torn as the car runs great and builds 17-18 PSI of boost when its working (according to Scangauge). So before I tear it back down, I thought I'd ask for thoughts here. Thank you.
Edit: I also changed spark plugs (NGK 97968) and coils (Delphi OEM) when I replaced the turbo.
Last edited by WyoMinis; Sep 26, 2022 at 06:05 PM. Reason: Additional information
I ended up pulling the new turbo off and replacing it with a JCW turbo with a lighter compressor wheel. I’m guessing the wastegate on the previous turbo was not set correctly.
If I would ease into the throttle and the turbo the first pull, the turbo would stay responsive the remainder of the drive. It was so pissed that I decided to change the turbo to a bigger unit and had the DDE tuned again.
Expensive fox but I’m happy with it now…
If I would ease into the throttle and the turbo the first pull, the turbo would stay responsive the remainder of the drive. It was so pissed that I decided to change the turbo to a bigger unit and had the DDE tuned again.
Expensive fox but I’m happy with it now…
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