I could use a tip, or cheat, to remove the engine electrical harness. I am at the last connector, (I believe it to be the oil pan level sending unit.) It seems to me its sandwiched between the [standing in front of motor] back if the oil pan, and the transmission.

Short of pulling the engine, does anyone think I could get away with cut and splice (solder) it back on? And just hope there's no shorts in the cable....

Reason for the removal, I know there's a short or rather bare spot in the harness that is affecting the fuel rail pressure sensor, as I get no signal, in addition, moving the harness around with the engine running and watching the live data from the dtc reader, many of the monitored sensors and modules data fields would blink in and out. Indicating there is a spot where many of them may have worn cable insulation.

Sure could I could buy a new one for $350 ~ $400. But then I'm still left with the same problem in the future.

I'd rather repair this one and double insulate the break points at resolve future issues with the harness. It's apain in the pocket book to replace one after another part especially when some start around $250 and some around $2000.....

And if splicing would be the best option, any probability is just going to short, fluid penetration, or oxidizing..?

 

Update: removed engine rear mount lifted the motor enough to pull the connector.

Removed the cable ties etc. Noticed brown (burn?) spots on the yellow wire to the FRPS, and same for boost sensor, thermostat, HPFP etc.

So harness repair is a no go. Ordered a new harness. Pulled the DME and right away noticed a rattling noise inside the unit. Opened it and found a component had come off.

So my assumption is the ECU fried, which shorted out the harness.

Could had saved money on all the parts I stuck into it, had I checked the DME and engine harness first.