Hello,

I've uploaded a video of my acceleration sputter / stumble. It occurs under harder acceleration and especially when trying to pass on the highway.
This issue started happening about 2 months ago, all mods were completed over a year ago.

2014 Mini Countryman S with 56,000 miles regularly maintained by a certified Mini mechanic.

From the research I've done it could be a number of things, including:
HPFP or VANOS or coil packs
Am I missing anything? Any and all help would be appreciated!

Here is the video example of what is happening: (had the accelerator floored for the first 11 seconds)

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Last service (30 days ago) I was told that my intermitted Engine Malfunction notification, non-CEL was from a stuck open BOV... shop checked and did vacuum check no issues... I do have a Forged Recirc Valve not OEM.

Engine Mods:
ECU tune stage 2 by OE Tuning LINK
Milltek Catted Downpipe
Exhaust resonator delete
320% larger intercooler
NM charge pipes
NM Intake system
WMW Stainless Turbo Oil Line Kit
Cold Heat Range Spark Plugs R55 R56 R57 R58 R59 R60 R61 Cooper S
Forge Turbo Blanket
Forge Recirc Valve N18
NM Engineering Torque Arm Insert

 

have you scanned for codes with a MINI specific reader yet?

 

I'll check the invoice from my mechanic if it listed the specific codes.
But what he verbally told me was the only code coming up was related to a stuck open blow off valve. which may be because of the Forge BOV I had installed that is not electronic but vacuum operated.
XD

 

My guess is your getting knock events. Bad gas, cheap ignition coils, wrong spark plugs, too much spark plug gap.... Could be anything.

You need to scan for BMW/Mini specific Diagnostic Trouble Codes. A regular OBD reader typically doesn't scan for these. You need a BMW/Mini specific reader.

 

Hi thank you!

I've ruled out bad gas by going to only busy gas stations and running a can of seafoam.

I've never changed the ignition coils, but think maybe the car could use new ones with stock spark plugs. If so would you go with Delphi or Bosch for the coils?

As for the spark plugs they are a little over a year old NGK platinum Cold Heat Range Spark Plugs. The only thing that has happened in the last year that could affect these is I had a carbon blasting done about 5 months ago.

My next actions are to take the car back to my mechanic have them diagnose. Along with replacing the ignition coils and spark plugs,

Also any thoughts on the VANOS sensors needing replacing?

 

It’s all a guess without knowing what’s actually going on with your car. My advice for you: if you plan on running a stage 2 tune, get to know how to perform maintenance on your car, and invest in a quality DTC tool. (code reader)

 

Could you recommend a DTC tool please?

I'm considering buying the AUTOPHIX 7810

 

Foxwell NT530 seems popular

 

Going in for service, since the scanner I've gotten:

2905 Intake plenum: Suspicion of leaks between exhaust turbocharger and intake valves
2C57 Charging pressure control plausibility Pressure too low
28A0 Intake pipe absolute pressure, plausibility: Pressure too high

Virtually all power lost, no turbo spool at all.

An oil leak from the front driver side area (see image)

Going in to have this completed ASAP: (if I should add anything comment!!)Oil change

Coolant flush

Transmission filter, gasket (provided) and oil change

Install replacement OEM recirculation valve (provided) remove Forged after market

Install replacement top and bottom solenoids (provided)

Install replacement OEM valve cover and gaskets (provided)

Install replacement OEM ignition coil packs and spark plugs (provided)

 

Did you find out what caused the 2C57 and 28A0 codes? Having the same issue