R60/R61 Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for R60 AND R61 MINI Cooper and Cooper S MINIs.

2012 R60 fuse box question

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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 04:24 PM
  #1  
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2012 R60 fuse box question


Hey all, here is what’s going on.
A year or so ago, on my 2012 R60 S All4, the electrical plug for the crankcase breather heating element broke and the dealership couldn’t find a part number to source a new one. So I crimped some connectors on the wires and made it work.
Today while I was hooning around a bit, the positive wire popped off and grounded to the turbo oil line! I can see where it arced. So I plugged in my Schwaben to clear the CEL and code after I had reconnected the wire, but the code won’t clear. I’m guessing I popped a fuse. My issue is that the fuse diagram on the inside of the fuse panel may as well be in Greek! I don’t know what a lot of the symbols mean! Lol....
So I’m here to see if anyone can point me to the correct fuse slot, so I don’t have to sit and pull each fuse one by one until I find it! I will if I have to, but I’m trying to avoid that route. The slots are all numbered so all I need is which one, lol.
Here’s a photo of the missing plug so you can tell which part I’m talking about
 
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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 08:11 PM
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Ok I figured it out. The fuse is F7 for anyone that wants to tuck it away for later. There is also a relay or fusable link... I’m not sure which yet, at F60 in the little black box next to the battery under the cowling.

So for an update, The fuse looked ok, but I replaced it anyway and fiddled with the wire just a tad. I scanned it again and the code is still there, and still active. It’s the “crankcase breather heater element/ Line Disconnected“. It still won’t clear obviously, but the cel went out, so that’s a plus (it annoys me beyond reason).
The problem is there is still a bad connection there, or a broken wire, or a bad relay/fuse at F60..... or the element itself is toast. I don’t think so though, because it happened when the wire came loose and grounded.
Im betting either I don’t have it back on well enough, or it’s that link at F60.
Its dark and cold out tonight, so I’m not gonna mess with it until tomorrow, I’ll post back when I figure it out if anyone is interested.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 08:15 PM
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https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...diagram-431133
 
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 04:34 AM
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Few years back, I bought a clubman with font end collision and the intake pressure sensor wires were cut/exposed. I soldered a new plug and fitted a new sensor. The ecu was reading a fault on that sensor. I swapped it few times without luck. I ended up cloning my ecu and the issue was gone.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 09:27 AM
  #5  
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Wow that’s weird, that fuse diagram is completely different from mine. The F7 fuse there is a 5A fuse. My F7 is a 20A fuse and instead of going through F41, mine goes up to F48 in the footwell fuse panel.
I found a couple of wiring diagrams, and it looks like there’s a fusable link in the engine compartment fuse box at FL7 so I’ll go check that in a few minutes.
The links at F60 and F67 next to the battery look ok. Fingers crossed! Lol.
At least it doesn’t effect the way it runs or drives. Mostly it’s the annoying cel on the speedo, the emissions one like you would get with a catless DP and no tune. And the fact that it drives me insane when something is wrong until I fix it! Ha ha
 
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 09:34 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
Few years back, I bought a clubman with font end collision and the intake pressure sensor wires were cut/exposed. I soldered a new plug and fitted a new sensor. The ecu was reading a fault on that sensor. I swapped it few times without luck. I ended up cloning my ecu and the issue was gone.
Where did you source the new plug? Junkyard? I have tried and nobody at Mini can find me the part number for one.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 09:42 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by MrGrumpy
Wow that’s weird, that fuse diagram is completely different from mine. The F7 fuse there is a 5A fuse. My F7 is a 20A fuse and instead of going through F41, mine goes up to F48 in the footwell fuse panel.
I found a couple of wiring diagrams, and it looks like there’s a fusable link in the engine compartment fuse box at FL7 so I’ll go check that in a few minutes.
The links at F60 and F67 next to the battery look ok. Fingers crossed! Lol.
At least it doesn’t effect the way it runs or drives. Mostly it’s the annoying cel on the speedo, the emissions one like you would get with a catless DP and no tune. And the fact that it drives me insane when something is wrong until I fix it! Ha ha
I just thought it might help with decoding symbols. I'll go look at my R60 and see what diagram is there.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 10:05 AM
  #8  
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It’s all good! Problem is fixed! Yay!
Turns out that F07 under the hood was good as well! But on a whim I tested the rest of them and found that the fuse at F01 under the hood was bad. It looked ok, but when I put my cheap little fuse tester on it, it was bad. So I swapped that one out, and all is right with the world again, ha ha. I started it up, scanned it, and the fault was finally showing as not present. The code cleared after that and I’m a happy Grump!
Thanks for the help!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 06:05 PM
  #9  
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Hey Grump, glad you fixed it. I looked at my R60 relay box...way less intimidating than the E46 relay box or the E46 fuse box. . Oh by the way...that spark plug change... wow! g-forces! Barely touch the pedal from a stop and it gets up! Made it up the hill driveway too without a hesitation. Now I'm looking for other things to add...
 
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 11:04 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by SunBird
Hey Grump, glad you fixed it. I looked at my R60 relay box...way less intimidating than the E46 relay box or the E46 fuse box. . Oh by the way...that spark plug change... wow! g-forces! Barely touch the pedal from a stop and it gets up! Made it up the hill driveway too without a hesitation. Now I'm looking for other things to add...
Thanks!
Thats awesome! I’m glad that it took care of it! It’s nice when it’s an easy and inexpensive fix.
Now if you want to start modding, be warned, it’s hard to stop! Ha ha. I would suggest getting in touch with Mariokart if you are interested in a tune or other upgrades. He’s awesome, and his customer service is top notch! I’ve been running the stage 3 RPM ECU remap for over a year and a half now and I’m happy as I could be with it. It really livens it up and makes it feel lighter and more eager, but is still an improvement for day to day driving too. You can get stage 1 for a completely stock car. Then you need some required mods to go higher.... hi-flow or catless downpipe and upgraded intercooler and different plugs for stage 2. And a turbo change for 3.
Enjoy it, they are a blast to drive. Joining a local club is fun too, for the 50 or more strong MINI drives, and some get parts discounts as well, which is worth it alone.
Have fun and feel free to hit me up anytime if there is something I can help out with.
 
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