I have the manual and nothing seems difficult or out of the usual - save for the sensor.

I do have a question on whether these are screw in pistons. Anyone know?

Is there anything I particularly need to look out for and/ or any tips in making things easier?

This is a '12 All4s

Thanks!

 

Straight forward, the rears do require the tool on the piston or c clamp, etc. my mechanic who never saw a MINI in his shop knocked it out very quickly.

 

Thanks - seems the rear pistons are the screw in type. I have to call auto parts stores local to me to see if someone carries the tool.

 

Harbor freight has the tool you need. Also get the warningwires for the sensors or you will have a constant warning light.
ISAMIN

 

Does anyone know at what mileage the warning light comes on? I have some time before my brakes need replacement but I'm thinking if I change them just before the warning light comes on, I can get 2 sets of brakes before I need a new sensor.

 

Too much thinking IMO to save $20 on a sensor. On my car the warning light came on and I probably had several thousand more miles on those pads. I changed out the pads and rotors anyway because I don't want to think about not stopping my car when I need to.

 

Didn't realize it was so inexpensive. Could've swore I saw $100 for it. Thanks for clarifying!

 

Yeah, the sensors are cheap.

Also, I found that AutoZone rents the tool to compress the rear piston - for free. You pay them a price and get a full refund when returned.

I did not do a brake fluid flush - and I don't see a need to. Just keep an eye on the amount of fluid in the reservoir as you compress the pistons. I needed to use a syringe to remove some of the fluid to bring it back to the max level.

It was quite easy to do - just need the right tools, time and elbow grease!

Select your car for step by step including torque specs.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

 

needing the right tools is an understatement. i just replaced the rotors and pads on my 13 r60 sall4 ... pain in the buuuuuuuuutt. i went with ceramic pads (mid lvl) painted rotors (cheap) from advance auto ($300+/-) ordered online, but if it was wrong i could have returned them easy. fronts (easyish) are different than back (pain). i forgot all the socket sizes but 13mm was popular, 17mm, needle nose to get the sensor out.
the back you need a tool to crank the piston back (advance $12) i also used a huge clamp to hold the tool flush as i cranked. also needed is a T-14 for one of the bolts holding the bracket on. the front sensor connects underneath by the washer fluid tank (fyi don't brace your hand on the washer hose as you will end up wet lol). i didn't do a bleed yet and have drivin for about a week and had to stop hardish after a day or two and it was fine, but have noticed the rears still look brand new. this car seems to need a special tool for every different part on the car. don't forget to reset the codes(youtube it) got a new sensor from carid i think for around $10

 

Reviving the thread to ask if there is an instructional on R60's front breaks.
Ive never had to deal with a sensor on any car in the past so im curious what else is different.

 

Youtube is filled with videos, find one for second gen cars, R60 isn't really different.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...nance/1LXXiL0p

 

Thanks a lot, in your experience do the sensors need replaced every time?

 

The sensor is just plastic that houses contact points. If the plastic has worn away and exposes the contact points, they will need to be replaced.

Honestly, they are so cheap, I would replace them anyway.

 

Agreed, just replace. The light effectively goes on when the circuit is completed by the rotor.