Replacing rotors and pads
#1
Replacing rotors and pads
I have the manual and nothing seems difficult or out of the usual - save for the sensor.
I do have a question on whether these are screw in pistons. Anyone know?
Is there anything I particularly need to look out for and/ or any tips in making things easier?
This is a '12 All4s
Thanks!
I do have a question on whether these are screw in pistons. Anyone know?
Is there anything I particularly need to look out for and/ or any tips in making things easier?
This is a '12 All4s
Thanks!
#2
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#8
Yeah, the sensors are cheap.
Also, I found that AutoZone rents the tool to compress the rear piston - for free. You pay them a price and get a full refund when returned.
I did not do a brake fluid flush - and I don't see a need to. Just keep an eye on the amount of fluid in the reservoir as you compress the pistons. I needed to use a syringe to remove some of the fluid to bring it back to the max level.
It was quite easy to do - just need the right tools, time and elbow grease!
Select your car for step by step including torque specs.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
Also, I found that AutoZone rents the tool to compress the rear piston - for free. You pay them a price and get a full refund when returned.
I did not do a brake fluid flush - and I don't see a need to. Just keep an eye on the amount of fluid in the reservoir as you compress the pistons. I needed to use a syringe to remove some of the fluid to bring it back to the max level.
It was quite easy to do - just need the right tools, time and elbow grease!
Select your car for step by step including torque specs.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
#9
needing the right tools is an understatement. i just replaced the rotors and pads on my 13 r60 sall4 ... pain in the buuuuuuuuutt. i went with ceramic pads (mid lvl) painted rotors (cheap) from advance auto ($300+/-) ordered online, but if it was wrong i could have returned them easy. fronts (easyish) are different than back (pain). i forgot all the socket sizes but 13mm was popular, 17mm, needle nose to get the sensor out.
the back you need a tool to crank the piston back (advance $12) i also used a huge clamp to hold the tool flush as i cranked. also needed is a T-14 for one of the bolts holding the bracket on. the front sensor connects underneath by the washer fluid tank (fyi don't brace your hand on the washer hose as you will end up wet lol). i didn't do a bleed yet and have drivin for about a week and had to stop hardish after a day or two and it was fine, but have noticed the rears still look brand new. this car seems to need a special tool for every different part on the car. don't forget to reset the codes(youtube it) got a new sensor from carid i think for around $10
the back you need a tool to crank the piston back (advance $12) i also used a huge clamp to hold the tool flush as i cranked. also needed is a T-14 for one of the bolts holding the bracket on. the front sensor connects underneath by the washer fluid tank (fyi don't brace your hand on the washer hose as you will end up wet lol). i didn't do a bleed yet and have drivin for about a week and had to stop hardish after a day or two and it was fine, but have noticed the rears still look brand new. this car seems to need a special tool for every different part on the car. don't forget to reset the codes(youtube it) got a new sensor from carid i think for around $10
#11
Youtube is filled with videos, find one for second gen cars, R60 isn't really different.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...nance/1LXXiL0p
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...nance/1LXXiL0p
The following users liked this post:
Adrian Valverde (11-09-2017)
#12
Youtube is filled with videos, find one for second gen cars, R60 isn't really different.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...nance/1LXXiL0p
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...nance/1LXXiL0p
#13
The following users liked this post:
Adrian Valverde (11-10-2017)
#14
The following users liked this post:
Adrian Valverde (11-10-2017)