Half engine light with full power
#1
Half engine light with full power
Hello
Has anyone had the half engine light come on in the tach but not have any loss of power.
I have had this problem for a few years with my 2011 Countryman S. Initially it was intermittent. Only happen on one particular hill on a highway in the foothills the first year. More frequently on hills last year and almost every day now on the highway when I accelerate at over 3000 rpm going to work.
My mechanic thought it might be an ECU problem so I brought it to the dealership. They scanned the codes and swapped out the high pressure fuel pump.
The half engine light came on the next day under the same circumstances.
Contacted the dealer and they said I must now have a new problem. Did not bother returning because frankly the car drives great but just that damn half engine light keeps coming on with no loss of power.
Not ... When I turn engine off and back on I punch the gas pedal and the engine light goes out.
Has anyone had the half engine light come on in the tach but not have any loss of power.
I have had this problem for a few years with my 2011 Countryman S. Initially it was intermittent. Only happen on one particular hill on a highway in the foothills the first year. More frequently on hills last year and almost every day now on the highway when I accelerate at over 3000 rpm going to work.
My mechanic thought it might be an ECU problem so I brought it to the dealership. They scanned the codes and swapped out the high pressure fuel pump.
The half engine light came on the next day under the same circumstances.
Contacted the dealer and they said I must now have a new problem. Did not bother returning because frankly the car drives great but just that damn half engine light keeps coming on with no loss of power.
Not ... When I turn engine off and back on I punch the gas pedal and the engine light goes out.
Last edited by vaud; 06-30-2016 at 07:12 PM. Reason: additional info
#2
#3
#4
#5
Hello
Has anyone had the half engine light come on in the tach but not have any loss of power.
I have had this problem for a few years with my 2011 Countryman S. Initially it was intermittent. Only happen on one particular hill on a highway in the foothills the first year. More frequently on hills last year and almost every day now on the highway when I accelerate at over 3000 rpm going to work.
My mechanic thought it might be an ECU problem so I brought it to the dealership. They scanned the codes and swapped out the high pressure fuel pump.
The half engine light came on the next day under the same circumstances.
Contacted the dealer and they said I must now have a new problem. Did not bother returning because frankly the car drives great but just that damn half engine light keeps coming on with no loss of power.
Not ... When I turn engine off and back on I punch the gas pedal and the engine light goes out.
Has anyone had the half engine light come on in the tach but not have any loss of power.
I have had this problem for a few years with my 2011 Countryman S. Initially it was intermittent. Only happen on one particular hill on a highway in the foothills the first year. More frequently on hills last year and almost every day now on the highway when I accelerate at over 3000 rpm going to work.
My mechanic thought it might be an ECU problem so I brought it to the dealership. They scanned the codes and swapped out the high pressure fuel pump.
The half engine light came on the next day under the same circumstances.
Contacted the dealer and they said I must now have a new problem. Did not bother returning because frankly the car drives great but just that damn half engine light keeps coming on with no loss of power.
Not ... When I turn engine off and back on I punch the gas pedal and the engine light goes out.
Take this next part with a grain of salt, as the issues I was having may or may not have been related to the parts replaced or be what your car is dealing with currently. Shortly after picking it up, and about 125 miles later, the engine blew. yes, blew! Piston went right though the case. Sent it back on a tow truck...obviously, had the engine replaced, under warranty, just glad I purchased the extended. Picked it up again and there was our little orange friend the half power no more than an hour later. I was pulling my hair out at this time. Sent it back...the service manager was basically on speed dial at this time.
Long story short, In the end, they replaced:
High pressure fuel pump
High pressure fuel rail
Turbo waste gate
VANOS solenoid
Engine
complete Turbo
ECU
water pump pully and belt
So she's running great...knock on wood!
Take it to the dealer and have them run the codes...better to be safe than sorry...not that that helped in my situation.
#6
Had this going on for me too. Took it to a local indi and they replaced the high pressure fuel pump. Light and half engine kept coming on. Took it back to the indi and they had a hard time reading the codes (long story and I will never take my car back there) so I had it towed to the dealership. Read the codes and had a bad waste gate and VANOS solenoid along with a cracked water pump pully.
Take this next part with a grain of salt, as the issues I was having may or may not have been related to the parts replaced or be what your car is dealing with currently. Shortly after picking it up, and about 125 miles later, the engine blew. yes, blew! Piston went right though the case. Sent it back on a tow truck...obviously, had the engine replaced, under warranty, just glad I purchased the extended. Picked it up again and there was our little orange friend the half power no more than an hour later. I was pulling my hair out at this time. Sent it back...the service manager was basically on speed dial at this time.
Long story short, In the end, they replaced:
High pressure fuel pump
High pressure fuel rail
Turbo waste gate
VANOS solenoid
Engine
complete Turbo
ECU
water pump pully and belt
So she's running great...knock on wood!
Take it to the dealer and have them run the codes...better to be safe than sorry...not that that helped in my situation.
Take this next part with a grain of salt, as the issues I was having may or may not have been related to the parts replaced or be what your car is dealing with currently. Shortly after picking it up, and about 125 miles later, the engine blew. yes, blew! Piston went right though the case. Sent it back on a tow truck...obviously, had the engine replaced, under warranty, just glad I purchased the extended. Picked it up again and there was our little orange friend the half power no more than an hour later. I was pulling my hair out at this time. Sent it back...the service manager was basically on speed dial at this time.
Long story short, In the end, they replaced:
High pressure fuel pump
High pressure fuel rail
Turbo waste gate
VANOS solenoid
Engine
complete Turbo
ECU
water pump pully and belt
So she's running great...knock on wood!
Take it to the dealer and have them run the codes...better to be safe than sorry...not that that helped in my situation.
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
#7
Half Engine Light
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
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#8
#9
Also we have noticed since having the car now for 4 months that the light comes on when you completely fill the tank. Not every time but if tank is full and you go up a really steep hill or turn quickly it will come on. It goes off when engine is turned off for any period of time.
We just drove it to Atlanta to take my husband to the airport and it came on about 30 minutes into the trip.(tank fuel)
#10
Hello
Has anyone had the half engine light come on in the tach but not have any loss of power.
I have had this problem for a few years with my 2011 Countryman S. Initially it was intermittent. Only happen on one particular hill on a highway in the foothills the first year. More frequently on hills last year and almost every day now on the highway when I accelerate at over 3000 rpm going to work.
My mechanic thought it might be an ECU problem so I brought it to the dealership. They scanned the codes and swapped out the high pressure fuel pump.
The half engine light came on the next day under the same circumstances.
Contacted the dealer and they said I must now have a new problem. Did not bother returning because frankly the car drives great but just that damn half engine light keeps coming on with no loss of power.
Not ... When I turn engine off and back on I punch the gas pedal and the engine light goes out.
Has anyone had the half engine light come on in the tach but not have any loss of power.
I have had this problem for a few years with my 2011 Countryman S. Initially it was intermittent. Only happen on one particular hill on a highway in the foothills the first year. More frequently on hills last year and almost every day now on the highway when I accelerate at over 3000 rpm going to work.
My mechanic thought it might be an ECU problem so I brought it to the dealership. They scanned the codes and swapped out the high pressure fuel pump.
The half engine light came on the next day under the same circumstances.
Contacted the dealer and they said I must now have a new problem. Did not bother returning because frankly the car drives great but just that damn half engine light keeps coming on with no loss of power.
Not ... When I turn engine off and back on I punch the gas pedal and the engine light goes out.
#11
hi thanks for the reply., our local dealer is either 2 or 2.5 hours away depending on if we go to Atlanta or Nashville. Would BMW know how to handle this?
Also we have noticed since having the car now for 4 months that the light comes on when you completely fill the tank. Not every time but if tank is full and you go up a really steep hill or turn quickly it will come on. It goes off when engine is turned off for any period of time.
We just drove it to Atlanta to take my husband to the airport and it came on about 30 minutes into the trip.(tank fuel)
Also we have noticed since having the car now for 4 months that the light comes on when you completely fill the tank. Not every time but if tank is full and you go up a really steep hill or turn quickly it will come on. It goes off when engine is turned off for any period of time.
We just drove it to Atlanta to take my husband to the airport and it came on about 30 minutes into the trip.(tank fuel)
One thing the service manager at MINI did ask me was if I filled my tank past the auto shut off. I'm one who will round up to the nearest even amount ($10.50 vs. $10.48), but never over fill it. I guess there is a charcoal filter of sort somewhere near the filler tank that can effect the engine somehow...not 100% sure though. Was also asked what kind of fuel I used. Here in California we don't get past 91 octane and they highly recommend Chevron or Shell. I'm a big fan of 76, as I used to work for them. The other two are not out of sort if the price is right. I stay far away from anything no name, especially the corner connivence store with the cheapest price.
The computer is will generally kind of kick out the code at shut off until it comes across it again later, but if it's serious enough (in a round about way) it will remain constant. After all mechanical components were replaced on my car I got the half power light an hour and a half later and it would not go away and remained in limp mode. Called the service manager and he couldn't believe I was still having issues. I was later found to be the DME. That, for me was the solution.
Please folks, this was probably a very isolated incident. I only continue to provide you with my knowledge about this topic as mine was probably the worse of the worst. If you don't have a MINI dealer you have quick access to, find a reputable independent autohause or someone who specializes in MINI. Ask you local MINI group who they recommend and we all have a mechanical friend that would probably know who in town or the area is good at what they do.
Overall, MINI should be liable for the issues your car is having this early on...especially if it's still covered under the factory warranty. Don't take anything for granted. Yes, you may have to make several trips to the dealer to get it figured out, but they will take care of you. When you make your appointment, make sure they have a loaner for you...especially for those of us who have a long haul to get there.
This is, sometimes, the cost of owning a MINI, but when it's running great there's no stopping us!
Motor On my Friends!
#12
my car is a preloved not new Mini 2011 Countryman All 4 Turbo.... this issue seems to only occur if the car is gased up. I use shell if available. We try not to fill it past the first cut off, if not a little lower but this week end for the trip to Atlanta we did fill her completely up and only got 30 minutes into the trip when the half engine light came on. Thanks for the info about the filter, would love to know more about that because I really think it has something to do with a full tank of gas.
#13
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Bringing this one back up from the dead......
I have a 2013 CM JCW. Last year around this time we went to Boston and this warning light came on. But there was no change in performance. Eventually the light went off. And this last week we were in Baltimore and the exact same thing happened. The ONLY thing that was similar was that we were a mountain-ous area again when it happened both times. So I'm thinking its something to do with the changes in pressure due to elevation. Both times the warning disappears after the car was shut off, re-started and driven for a bit. Regardless, I'm taking it into the dealership to see if they can find anything. Dis-concerning for sure because unless the warning stays on, apparently it's unlikely any faults are registered. Something must be leaking I'm thinking and/or not liking the pressure changes or caused by the pressure changes.
I have a 2013 CM JCW. Last year around this time we went to Boston and this warning light came on. But there was no change in performance. Eventually the light went off. And this last week we were in Baltimore and the exact same thing happened. The ONLY thing that was similar was that we were a mountain-ous area again when it happened both times. So I'm thinking its something to do with the changes in pressure due to elevation. Both times the warning disappears after the car was shut off, re-started and driven for a bit. Regardless, I'm taking it into the dealership to see if they can find anything. Dis-concerning for sure because unless the warning stays on, apparently it's unlikely any faults are registered. Something must be leaking I'm thinking and/or not liking the pressure changes or caused by the pressure changes.
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#15
Ok this is what is generally referred to as “limp-mode” where the ECU basically bypasses the turbo to protect the motor. The average parts store will not be able to read those codes as they are proprietary BMW codes that need specific software to read them. A shop that does Mini service should be able to read them. Just because nothing is showing at the parts store does not mean that no code is being stored, they are there. It sounds like the issue could possibly be the wastegate, in which case you want to take it to a dealership because there was a warranty extension on the turbo for the 2011. It’s not a good idea to just ignore the warnings the car gives you. There any number of things that can trigger the limp-mode, not just one thing. Nobody is going to be able to help much without knowing what codes are being generated. Get the codes read first, then we can help point you in the right direction.
#16
I am amazed at the number of people that have limp mode issues and just ignore it! On the post up towards the top says that they have been dealing with the light for a couple of years? What? Just take it in! How can people just ignore an issue like this? I just don’t understand it. “Well it goes off when I mash the gas pedal or turn it off” does not mean the car is fixed.
Just......Wow
Just......Wow
#17
Bringing this one back up from the dead......
I have a 2013 CM JCW. Last year around this time we went to Boston and this warning light came on. But there was no change in performance. Eventually the light went off. And this last week we were in Baltimore and the exact same thing happened. The ONLY thing that was similar was that we were a mountain-ous area again when it happened both times. So I'm thinking its something to do with the changes in pressure due to elevation. Both times the warning disappears after the car was shut off, re-started and driven for a bit. Regardless, I'm taking it into the dealership to see if they can find anything. Dis-concerning for sure because unless the warning stays on, apparently it's unlikely any faults are registered. Something must be leaking I'm thinking and/or not liking the pressure changes or caused by the pressure changes.
I have a 2013 CM JCW. Last year around this time we went to Boston and this warning light came on. But there was no change in performance. Eventually the light went off. And this last week we were in Baltimore and the exact same thing happened. The ONLY thing that was similar was that we were a mountain-ous area again when it happened both times. So I'm thinking its something to do with the changes in pressure due to elevation. Both times the warning disappears after the car was shut off, re-started and driven for a bit. Regardless, I'm taking it into the dealership to see if they can find anything. Dis-concerning for sure because unless the warning stays on, apparently it's unlikely any faults are registered. Something must be leaking I'm thinking and/or not liking the pressure changes or caused by the pressure changes.
I have to say, this is exactly the way my issues started. Every now and again the limp mode would engage and I'd pull over and shut her off, and restart and I was on my way...until it happened the next time - maybe a week, maybe a few days. I'm sure you've read my post. Best of luck...I hope you're able to get it rectified better than I.
#18
Mine was a Turbo issue
I had the same issue. Engine light was intermittent, with no obvious reduction in performance. After a few instances, I took it in.
My Turbo was failing. A bearing of some sort was the issue, and while it was still functioning, days were numbered.
I now have a new Turbo (warranty!), no check engine light, and life is good!
My Turbo was failing. A bearing of some sort was the issue, and while it was still functioning, days were numbered.
I now have a new Turbo (warranty!), no check engine light, and life is good!
#19
I had the same issue. Engine light was intermittent, with no obvious reduction in performance. After a few instances, I took it in.
My Turbo was failing. A bearing of some sort was the issue, and while it was still functioning, days were numbered.
I now have a new Turbo (warranty!), no check engine light, and life is good!
My Turbo was failing. A bearing of some sort was the issue, and while it was still functioning, days were numbered.
I now have a new Turbo (warranty!), no check engine light, and life is good!
Im still covered under warranty correct? Some reason the service person said that I would owe 80$ for diagnostics test and if it comes back faulty for something under warranty they would waive it, but it not then i would be charged.
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#21
Head, the dealer has to do the diagnostic before they will cover it under the warranty extension if it’s available to you. My January 2012 build R60 was not covered. But they have to diagnose at MINI.
It sounds like the same symptoms as mine when my wastegate was shot. It turned into a good excuse for a turbo upgrade! Lol.
I say it a lot, but will again.....auto zone and those type of stores cannot read all of the codes. You need a scan tool that will read the proprietary BMW codes like a Schwaben scan tool. For example, I took my car to auto zone once to have the codes read while the car was actively in limp-mode, and their scanner said “no codes”...... took it to a Euro specialist and there were 5 codes the other scanner couldn’t read. It’s vital to be able to read all of the codes if you are going to work on it yourself, or even to be able to try to guess at the problem.
Hope this helps somebody out there.
It sounds like the same symptoms as mine when my wastegate was shot. It turned into a good excuse for a turbo upgrade! Lol.
I say it a lot, but will again.....auto zone and those type of stores cannot read all of the codes. You need a scan tool that will read the proprietary BMW codes like a Schwaben scan tool. For example, I took my car to auto zone once to have the codes read while the car was actively in limp-mode, and their scanner said “no codes”...... took it to a Euro specialist and there were 5 codes the other scanner couldn’t read. It’s vital to be able to read all of the codes if you are going to work on it yourself, or even to be able to try to guess at the problem.
Hope this helps somebody out there.
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ECSTuning (09-24-2018)
#22
Head, the dealer has to do the diagnostic before they will cover it under the warranty extension if it’s available to you. My January 2012 build R60 was not covered. But they have to diagnose at MINI.
It sounds like the same symptoms as mine when my wastegate was shot. It turned into a good excuse for a turbo upgrade! Lol.
I say it a lot, but will again.....auto zone and those type of stores cannot read all of the codes. You need a scan tool that will read the proprietary BMW codes like a Schwaben scan tool. For example, I took my car to auto zone once to have the codes read while the car was actively in limp-mode, and their scanner said “no codes”...... took it to a Euro specialist and there were 5 codes the other scanner couldn’t read. It’s vital to be able to read all of the codes if you are going to work on it yourself, or even to be able to try to guess at the problem.
Hope this helps somebody out there.
It sounds like the same symptoms as mine when my wastegate was shot. It turned into a good excuse for a turbo upgrade! Lol.
I say it a lot, but will again.....auto zone and those type of stores cannot read all of the codes. You need a scan tool that will read the proprietary BMW codes like a Schwaben scan tool. For example, I took my car to auto zone once to have the codes read while the car was actively in limp-mode, and their scanner said “no codes”...... took it to a Euro specialist and there were 5 codes the other scanner couldn’t read. It’s vital to be able to read all of the codes if you are going to work on it yourself, or even to be able to try to guess at the problem.
Hope this helps somebody out there.
#23
Mr G, diggin up some old posts - my sons CM gets this infrequently. Less since we did the PCV recently (thanks again). I have the same scanner as you and no codes show up at all. Happens only on the highway and goes away after restart. Any thoughts? Future failing turbo?
I have a buddy who is having the same thing too, limp mode kicks in going up a slight hill at highway speeds. But he is getting the boost pressure plausibility code. All I can think of at the moment would be to check the diverter, and possibly pull the downpipe to inspect the wastegate. In the meantime, if it’s an auto, he can try kicking the shift lever over to sport+ just before an incline. It will raise the rpm’s a bit and hopefully keep it out of limp mode. Good luck! Let me know if I can help in any way.
In the end, unfortunately, a new turbo was the cure for mine, with luck your sons will be something simpler
#24
#25
I bought a 2016 CM from IAAI, of cause accident. Got it fixed, starts normally, no erratic idling, however have not been able to use the car since I bought it. Unfortunately, in Ghana the only BMW dealer does not deal in Mini, and even if there is a warranty on it, that warranty is of no value. The half Engine light is on and the DTC is 2C72, we checked the turbo line for any leakages, nothing; changed the boost pressure sensor and one other sensor under the air cleaner. The car Jerks, and at times does respond to acceleration at its will. All parts have to be ordered from either the US or Germany and takes a minimum of 3 weeks, since nobody stocks them in Ghana. Anybody with any ideas on how to get over this problem and get the car on the road?