Hi - I am the owner of a 2011 Countryman S all4, manual with 68,ooo on it. Purchased used 10 months ago. and has been problem free up until recently. Also I live on the western slope of Colorado (7 hours from Schompf Mini in Denver), and I am mechanically proficient, however this is the newest car we have owned and presents unique troubleshooting challenges - as you all know.

Started throwing P0300 for multiple misfires, and codes for 3 of 4 cylinders - replaced plugs (Denso Iridium) first and then started moving coils around to try and get problems to replicate. Plugs eliminated misfires in two cylinders, and was able to move one coil through all cylinders and get misfire to appear. Any/all of these misfire events would put the car in limp mode.

I replaced all coils (Delphi) and am able to accelerate moderately through all gears on flats and on steep grades - however if you attempt to accelerate quickly (ie. punch-it) I can generate misfires repeatedly in cylinders 3 and 4 - if you do not ease off the throttle it will throw codes for misfire in 3 and 4 occasionally accompanied by P0300 and will enter limp mode.

Additionally, regardless of driving moderately or aggressively the car will throw P2402 about 10 minutes into a drive, resulting in check engine light on speedometer.

In troubleshooting all of this (and reading most of the relevant info here and other sites) and examining things under the bonnet I found that I have the oil creep syndrome at the middle set of plugs on the ECU - I wiped all of that clean with electrical cleaner between plugs and coil swaps.

Other info: when running, fuel rail pressure appears to move between 1000 and 1800 psi, and timing on cylinder 1 appears to advance and retard with RPMs, gearing and driving style (aggressive vs. moderate).

So... a few questions.
1. Can anyone confirm if the leaking Oil Pump solenoid/oil migration issue occurs at the middle plug at the ECU?
2. Is the P2402 definitively the DMTL pump or is there a troubleshooting approach to isolate issues throwing the P2402 code.
3. Lastly, what should my next step be regarding the misfires? Might the DMTL issue be contributing to the misfires? Given the previous changes with new plugs and coils, is the DMTL related?

Thanks in advance.

Chris

 

I started a thread about p2402 and it was surely the gas cap, never came back. Worth 20$ to eliminate that possibility.

My car had the oil solenoid issue fixed prior to my owning it so i have no info.

 

Saw your 2402 thread and gas cap fix - wiped mine clean to verify the seal, but maybe there are other elements to the cap that cause this issue. Thanks I will take a chance on the cap.

 

There are a few threads discussing that P2402 code as well as Minnie's;

this one and this one are good starters.

The untightened / leaking fuel filler cap fix may take a couple of days to clear the error code but if that turns out to be the fix then it was an easy one.

 

UPDATE:
Ordered new Gas Cap and evaporative system pump - appears I need to pull charcoal canister to replace the pump so I will check that out at that point to assess its condition. Appears to be a dealer only part? Cant find one cross referenced for the Countryman at any of the usual parts suppliers.

Will keep the thread/group informed of changes as they happen.

 

UPDATE #2:
Replaced Gas cap with OEM cap - did not change anything. Cleared 2402 code and then replaced Fuel Vapor Detection Pump (DMTL pump) and have not had the 2402 pop up on test drives (5 miles). Also, checked charcoal filter for blockage - was able to move air through it freely.

Still getting misfires on cyls. 3 and 4 - any suggestions?

Have appt. with Schomp Mini on Monday (6 hours away) to get to the bottom of this as I have kind of hit the wall on solving this puzzle.

 

UPDATE #3:
Put old Beru plugs back in and can not get it to misfire. Lesson learned is do not trust FLAPS when they cross reference to a plug - these were quality Denso plugs, but for a naturally aspirated 2011 CM, not an S. Not sure what the difference is, but they sold me a Denso SC20HR11 and I needed a Denso SXU22HCR11S or a Denso IXUH22I according to PartsGeek.com.

Will get the OEM Beru plugs to match the new Delphi coils and call it good.

2402 code fix with DMTL pump replacement is working as well - no issues with 100 miles on it.

Maybe this info will be of use to someone else down the road.

 

The emissions system is not a continual checking setup. By that I mean the car has to go through a series of events before it checks. Clearing the code as far as I understood it is not the same as driving. When I switched out the gas cap it took a round trip of about 200 miles and several days before light went off. Hopefully your fix worked, just think that you didn't give the gas cap fix a chance to be proven.


There is a BMW chart somewhere that details the hoops the car needs to go through, just can't find it at the moment. Maybe someone can post it to complete this as a good reference for the future.

 

I understand your suggestion that the gas cap may have resolved the issue had I been able to give it the appropriate amount of time for the system to reset itself. My logic (being where I am - miles and days away from parts) was that after replacing the cap with codes cleared, and restarting the vehicle and getting the 2402 code after ten minutes of operation that the gas cap was not the fix. After replacing the emissions pump (which the 2402 specifically references) I have not seen the code again.

On another note, I had to go to Denver for a conference, and had an appointment at Schomp Mini, so even though I drove the 6+ hours to Denver w/o issue I decided I wanted them to look at the vehicle. I had them change the oil so that it would be on a lift and we could check out the oil pump solenoid - I had previously found oil on the center plug of the ECU.

Mini confirmed the pump solenoid was leaking, and that oil had been pushed to the ECU - Schomp offered to replace the solenoid, the wiring harness for the engine and the ECU - with mini covering 80% of the cost. Seems fair given the mileage of the vehicle and the fact that I am the third owner. Additionally, Schomp provided me with a 2016 Countryman (with 400 miles on it) to return home in - I will pick up our vehicle on Friday - will confirm that this is the way the deal went down when all is said and done.

 

For the future, you can always use our parts catalog for parts compatibility if needed. We also sell the OEM Supplier Beru plugs here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0. Glad you fixed your issue.

 

Can someone tell me where the fuel vapor detection pump is located? I've searched the forum and can't find a pic or description of the location!

 

dtml pump ? aka: Leak diagnosis pump ?

it's at the fuel tank area. #3

 

It's on the passenger side in front of the rear wheel, I think it's cover up by a plastic piece. Big black plastic box

 

Thanks. Has anyone replaced this themselves on a R56? Any instructions? Videos? Any special tools required?