This just showed up:


Already pulled the interior apart so I could install my repowered (running switched 12v from add-a-circuit to stop battery drain) OT-2 and iPhone gauge setup.

Concerned about running the lines under the car since I didn't see any obvious paths, but will toss on a lift this week to find out for sure.

Stay tuned for more. Plan on installing over the next several days and this weekend.

 

Plan on doing this to mine very soon....will stay tuned

 

Be sure to take a lot of pictures so we can see the progress.

 

No progress tonight beyond unboxing and reading the manuals several times through and looking over the car. The only thing I can't account for is wiring up the dimmer/purple wire.

Anyone who has installed one of these and wired the dimmer up please chime in with where you tapped in. My searches have told me nothing in this area.

 

Definitely watching this thread!!

 

Had the car up on a lift. Knocked out the engine mount upgrades and ran the lines.

So there are just enough differences that when reading the included instructions you have to stop and think, so is this equivalent.

The grommet to pass the lines through the trunk are under the jack kit. I would get a left side tank if I had to do it over again. Shorter run with where the grommet is.

The lines come out on the right side above the exhaust, which I then threaded over, behind and around the heat shield. In order to run forward you have to take off the plastic cover on the right side. 9 10mm nuts, 1 10mm bolt, 1 screw and 1 torx later... you see the fuel lines to zip tie to.

Took me awhile to fish the wire up into the engine bay. If you can take out the battery and feed the lines up there. I didn't do this at first and lost several hours feeding the lines around the engine bay.

Also tape off the little plastic clips on the various cables. They have connections like phone/network cables and will catch if you pull backwards on any lines.

Still need to put the valve in the pipe and tap the ecu and then the testing begins.

 

Finished the install. Forgot to take pics...

Tapping the plastic pipe is straight forward. Read a tip that suggested putting a dab of grease on the tapping teeth and it will grab the scrapings. Worked like a charm.

Starting with the 6mm nozzle, sorta twisted off the 7...

Taping the wires was a breeze with the guide. Pro tip; the covers push forward off the back of the harness. Only took me 15mins to figure that out

The testing instructions are quick and easy. Took Taz for a drive and noticed the gauge was bouncing all over the place. Quick call to Jeff and adjusting the wire sensor that snaps on the FAV to 12 o'clock and bam gauge reads normal.

Having Jeff to call up is worth buying this WMI system over others. He knows ALL!

Started with 50/50 and seeing cooler intake temps. Without WMI +10-14 over AAT, now 3-5 degrees over AAT. Since I'm not tuned for this not expecting that much difference in performance, but my peace of mind while driving hard is +1000.

Once this tank is up I'm going to try 25/75 water-meth. Then maybe the 7mm adapter.

Hearing the pump purr over my shoulder will take some getting used too. Now to wait for Craven to send the missing bracket arms so I can mount the gauge.

Ask questions and I will give my two cents.

 

Bummer. Just found out I'm going to have an up hill battle having this system installed with SOLO autocross. Seems 'any sort of methanol injection' is banned from SOLO, but water injection is ok in SP. Trick is convincing the tech guys you really are running just water and reconfiguring the car to run this vs 50/50 or 25/75. Your local group may be more lenient and let you run up to 50/50, but the word from the top is that this shouldn't be allowed.

I can't make this sunday's event to push the issue so I will report more in June.

 

Update!
Had a minor glitch with the system cutting in and out. Had power to some things, but when I put the system into test mode the pump didn't kick in. Traced this back to a bad ground. Sanded the metal under the battery tray where grounded and everything works again.

 

Since you aren't tuned for methanol, can't you just run water?

 

Yes, in theory I can run pure water with some minor flow adjustments. But it maybe easier to just flush the system and leave it dry for my next event vs fighting peoples misconceptions about the system being a giant firebomb.

The ECU is doing a remarkable job of adjusting to the additional methanol. On the stock settings with the 6mm nozzle I am seeing -5-10% fuel trims.

 

Whats the biggest difference you've seen with the car since you've added the methanol? Aside from the fuel trim?

I'm sure those intake temps are staying nice and cool

 

Since I'm stilling running the smallest jet so IAT aren't as low as I was expecting. But 13 deg over ambient on a hard pull isn't bad. They drop back near AAT with a few seconds too.

Beyond the car pulling harder (not sure if this is just due to battery disconnect and clearing of the fuel trims), previously when going WOT there was variation to the power delivery. Now I would describe it as smooth and consistent. Idle seems smoother too.

Here's a pic of the OBDII date from my OT-2 setup. This shows a hard acceleration from a stop light through 1st and 2nd gear.

 

This is honestly one of the best things you can get for this car...or any mini for that matter.

Have you tried the 25/75 concentration yet?

 

I have no regrets doing this before the AP or anything else. I said I was going to wait awhile on the AP, but the bug has bitten me and that in going on this weekend

Thought I was mixing 25/75 water-meth, but then realized I forgot basic chemistry 101 and that I just can't mix 1 gallon water and 3 gallons meth and call it 75%. So I'm running more like 60%. Plan on doing a stronger mix next time I get my methanol.

In the mean time I'm going to go up one size on the nozzle and see what that does to my IAT and fuel %. Also going to wire up the failsafes in anticipation of doing a optimized tune in the near future. After that another dyno run before the wife takes the check book away

 

Put the 7mm nozzle in and set the Threshold to 11 o'clock and Gain to about 2 o'clock. That gives me max spray from 5000rpm on.

Pulled the trigger on an Alta AP and put the Stage 1 tune on. Now we are talking!!! Before it was never really lacking for power, but now I can run 3/4 throttle and still scare the crap out of the passenger. I've yet to find an area that I can do a true WOT 3rd-4th run. I hit 90 by end of on ramp and back off.

Still seeing -10%-15% fuel still. Working on getting a tweaked tune.

 

Final update on this project.

Wired up the failsafe and dialed it in per the instructions. Had some issues with the failsafe triggering during hard acceleration and cornering. Turns out that there is a dial on the controller that can be adjusted to better filter out the false positives.

One nice side effect of the failsafe being wired is if I turn off the system via the gauge it forces the car into low boost. Instant valet mode!

After having the Aquamist pump chattering at me for a couple weeks I decided it was too loud. I found myself actually letting up off the gas whenever it triggered. Plus the wife hates the noise. Quick $20 solution was to get one of those quilted moving blankets. Now I can't hear it and my golf clubs don't rattle nearly as bad either.

 

Do you have more info on how you setup the failsafe? Are you just cutting power to the boost control solenoid, or is there a second map I haven't heard of?