Not a lot of time tonight to work on the Mini. I did check the ground, and it is grounding. From each of the coil plugs to the body, I have a good ground on all 4.

As I said I'll pull the plugs and ground one coil and plug and see if I am getting a spark.

 

Not that this is the problem, but it is a good walk though of testing the wires going to the coils.

 

Did you repair the visibly damaged ground wire?

This schematic may help:

 

Check the ground "as is" from each plug at the coil connection to the stud, all checked good. I swap out relay, but I still haven't check checked for spark. Lack of having someone to crank while I look.
I still have to check to see if I have power in the relay.

How common is it to have the ECU go out? I have another mini I picked up that I know is in limp mode. Though about swapping ECUs to see if it starts... even in limp mode. It would then tell me it is the ECU (on both).

Thoughts?

Also, THANKS for all the help. Working on this without a manual... I have the MINI Cooper ( R55 R56 R57 ) Service Manual, what a joke that is.

 

A continuity test may be inadequate for assessing a ground wire. I recommend replacing/repairing all visibly damaged wire. Then go from there.

 

UPDATE: Cold soak, it starts but I have to feather the throttle 2-3k to keep it running for the first 20 to 30 seconds. Once past the first 20-30 seconds it idles at 1100 and then drops to 800 to 1000. Normal RPM!!! *** if I turn it off before the 800 to 1000 idle, I can restart, but I have to work the throttle again. Seems as if once it warms up, I cannot get it started. Once it idles at 800 to 1000 it seems normal and will idle fine. Again, if I turn it off after this point, I cannot get it started with or without working the throttle. The engine should start without any throttle.

Only codes it caught were P0117 Eng Coolant Temp circuit low input, and P15E8 External Engine Off Timer Engine Off Time Too Short Correlation to Cooling Down of Engine Coolant. (both pending) I believe these are BS.

I did change the Engine Variable Valve Lift Eccentric Shaft Actuator as the only other part I haven't changed. No help, no Change.

What am I missing?
1. Could I have gotten bad vanos gears? i.e. cold thick oil will move them but not when hot?
2. Should I check Timing AGAIN?
3. Could the ECU have a pending short and as it gets warm the circuit opens and will not allow it to start but if it is running it will stay? Or did I not get it warn enough for it to die. (would have wait for it to get cold again)
4. What am I missing.

Its 30degF and the battery is on the charger.

I am at the point that I going to pull it onto my trailer and take it to the Mini shop, bend over, and have them do an hour of testing to see what I am can't find.

 

I'm not sure how common ECU failures are, but I have had one on my 2009 (bad socket to motherboard connection). You can't swap. They are coded with the CAS module and the CAS is under the dashboard in front of the steering wheel. Yes you have to remove the entire dash board to remove the CAS module. To swap the ECU, you have to swap the key, CAS and ECU.

 

Does the car have an auto or manual trans?

I was just diagnosing a 2011 Dodge Journey (no crank, no start) problem. Like the MINI; it has the start/stop button to start. In that case, it turned out to be the brake pedal position sensor (3 wire Hall Effect sensor).

In your case, the car starts when cold, so you can rule out timing; timing isn't going to change from a cold to hot start. So like any diagnostic, you have to figure out what you are missing when the engine is hot ... spark, fuel, compression?

Connect your scan tool, and check (auto trans) if you see "brake pedal depressed" yes/no under the DME menu/live data. If it's a manual, look for the clutch switch. Make sure you can see a change of state in the scan tool when the clutch pedal is depressed/released. Also, if it's an auto trans; make sure your transmission is showing in Park with the shifter in Park. You'll want to check these just to rule them out as a potential cause.

 

I think you meant "Swap"

!@#%@#@!#$!@#$!@#
So, I can't swap out ECUs to see if that is it? I have a 2012 outback in limp mode. Next motor rebuild. 0 PIS on #1 cylinder, or so I have been told.

I have also seen a Key icon on the tack ??? on the display but the book doesn't explain the hieroglyphics of the dash or in the fuse box or anywhere else.

About four months ago the key died for this car and got a new one from Mini $290 from BMW...

 

Focus here^. Try replacing engine coolant temperature sensor.

 

It is a stick. If it was the brake switch, I would think that the starter would not engage
These engines have variable cam gears that use engine oil..
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++

Back from dinner after letting it cool down. It is quick at this cold temp.

I started it again. Got it a little warmed up and tried to floor it. It is bogging down so it is not running right. If I give it gas from 1000 RPMS slow it speeds up, if I floor it, it bogs down. Last time working on it I did change the Engine Variable Valve Lift Eccentric Shaft Actuator with a used one. In the morning, I will put the other actuator back in. See if it bogs down like now. If it doesn't bog down the actuator in the car now will go in the trash.

Again, as soon as it warmed up the motor would rotate when trying to start but would not kick over after it got warmed up. About 3 to 4 minutes of running.