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R56 R56 Suspension Refresh - any war stories?

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Old Jan 30, 2021 | 10:23 AM
  #51  
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Lex2008
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You're just preparing mentally... Its always a smart idea to think to it through and anticipate tools you may need etc.

Don't forget t to remove the abs sensor at the wheel hub so you don't tear it out when the hub drops. And be careful with the headlights leveling sensor on the control arm! Take it off before you start! Those things cost $100. I snapped mine and had to epoxy the plastic arm multiple times.

 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 08:10 AM
  #52  
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e24mpwr
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by njaremka
It really isn't that hard to drop the subframe...
I'm sure that's true... the second time

Well, I got started last night. It's kinda funny that the instructions for this kind of thing with a Mini start with "Remove the front of the car as well as the subframe" - lol.

Parts staged: (I'm having to swap out three of the four shocks as they have paint issues exposing bare metal. I don't care about pretty and I don't live in the ruts belt, but am concerned about rust since we do salt the roads here a few times a year and this an "outdoor" car - I was told last night by ECS that it would void the warranty to paint/touch up those spots, so back they go :()




It was kinda funny that the videos and instructions don't mention that the grill comes off in two pieces - the lowest "bar" comes out with a couple clips on each end so you can get to the four pinch-clips to remove the rest of the grill. I figured it out, but obv. would have been faster if I'd known "the trick".

I ended the night deciding to replace all the stupid expansion clips - I had to drill several out and the years haven't been kind to the rest. Since there are 14 in the front wheel wells alone I think I'm going to order 30 of them, hoping to have a couple extra.

I haven't pulled the crush tubes yet - seemed like there was a lot attached there, and I was beat already - lol. As with most "first time" automotive things with me, I think this is going to take a while. Beyond just taking my time, there isn't a great set of R55 instructions, and even the instructions that are out there skip things. I'm figuring it out fine, but it's slow-going. I've replaced shocks/struts before, so that part should go fine (though one of the replacement shocks is on a 2-week backorder :( Going to have to see if somebody has them in stock).

I guess I'll have time to spruce some things up - lol
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 08:20 AM
  #53  
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Lex2008
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Good times bro. Take your time and enjoy. First time is always soooo slow. That's learning baby.

Expansion clips? You mean the fender clips? Those stupid things always break. I bought a bag of cheap copies on Ebay.

Bad Koni quality control eh? I woulda just stuck them on there anyway. My Konis are already rusting on the bottom after 5 years. They will fail before they rust through. (lifetime warranty for original owner)
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 07:12 PM
  #54  
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e24mpwr
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From: North Carolina
Spent a bit of time today getting ready to get started on the LCAs - lol.

Crash bars are out - had a bit more to unhook than the Pelican guide said, but whatever.



I was pulling the swaybar links (I'm replacing them anyway) and the nut wasn't coming off with the impact or a ratchet, so out came the weirdo Craftsman "through" ratchet and sockets I usually use when I build struts.

It worked, but wasn't really loving it.

I noticed that I could use my 17mm "skinny" wrench I got for brake calipers to stabilize.


^Why I love roto ratchets.

The Knipex pliers were actually the most comfortable to use, but guessing it wouldn't be this easy when tight.

Net: I didn't realize these wrenches would be this handy for the min. I recommend a set highly...

I was pretty close to getting to the "drop the subframe" part when I realized it was time to get ready for the SuperBowl (though watching the end now, it wasn't a super-fun game to watch - don't really have a dog in the fight). As I moved out from under the car, I wondered if I'll have to drop the exhaust...
 
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Old Feb 8, 2021 | 07:49 AM
  #55  
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Lex2008
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Your garage looks a lot like mine....I better make sure you arent in my space.

Which wrenches are those? I use skinny bicycle wrenches for sway bar links sometimes.

I like your long light. Which model is that?

Yes you will need to disconnect the downpipe and the front hangar and let the exhaust hang down to the floor. I hate fighting with the downpipe clamp. Makes me nutty.

 
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Old Feb 8, 2021 | 03:18 PM
  #56  
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e24mpwr
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by Lex2008
Your garage looks a lot like mine....I better make sure you arent in my space.

Which wrenches are those? I use skinny bicycle wrenches for sway bar links sometimes.
Capri - $45 or so on Amazon. I'm sure there are cheaper options, but these guys make some great stuff.



Originally Posted by Lex2008
I like your long light. Which model is that?
It's Milwaukee's M12 hood light. It's kinda stupid expensive ($199 w/o batteries), though I found a great deal on Amazon Warehouse and already had plenty of M12 batteries. But it's great if you spend a lot of time under the hood:

my (spawn's) much-simpler to work on E53 X5 3.0

I'm over 50 now, and finding that good light is essentially a requirement now :(

Extending the tanget, a cheaper option ($59, also w/o batteries) is thing magnetic guy:

700 or 800 lumens and has a pretty strong magnet on the back!

Originally Posted by Lex2008
Yes you will need to disconnect the downpipe and the front hangar and let the exhaust hang down to the floor. I hate fighting with the downpipe clamp. Makes me nutty.
I figured - no biggie. Going to have to conscript a helper...

 
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Old Feb 8, 2021 | 03:55 PM
  #57  
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I have a set of CAPRI torque sticks for lug nuts. Ever since Craftsman / Sears started unravelling and online shopping took off, its left a huge opening for other tool manufacturers me thinks.

I have a DeWalt 20amp standing light. I love that thang. I did however melt the plastic lens with B12 Chemtool spray whilst cleaning out the intake valves on another car...oopsie.





 
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