The Redline 5W-30 is super interesting...

Thanks
This one....The RL 5W-30 seems to check all the boxes.... Low volatility (NOACK of 6.0), HAS the BMW LL-Rating, (which, for me, is not too important), a low -50˚ pour point.

I've used RedLine lubricants on my Duramax, transmisions, diffs, farm gear, powersports stuff.... so I expect great results here too.

Great price on the RL I just placed an order for 4 gallons (years supply for me)... for less than $40/gallon .
I'll see how it does over the next year..

 

Exactly what I put in my engine. Good to know I have another convert.

 

I do not want to question the quality of this oil (how could I?), I just want to point out for correctness' sake that it has not received official approval by BMW but instead Redline recommends it amongst other for applications requiring BMW LL-01.

Redline probably never chose to submit it to BMW for official approval, I guess.

 

Really good point George....Thank you for bringing that up.

The RL print may give the reader that they actually received BMW certs on the oil.. but they really only have a recommendation for meeting the LL/BMW spec.... but, in the end....I'd bet my bottom dollar that this RL oil is a far better oil in terms of quality, breakdown and lubricity in these cars.
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Not to derail...but what kind of money does a MINI dealership charge for one of their oil/filter changes?



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I've been charged $80 for oil/filter change by Niello MINI, East Bay MINI and MINI of SF

 

Thanks for that.... I wonder what oil they use in the change... and what the specs are on that oil??



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In 2013 and 2015, BMW dealers in Germany used the BMW labeled 5w-30 LL-04 oil (at the time supplied by Castrol/BP). Excerpt from receipt:

 

A few years ago I thin I remember there being some discussion/buzz here about Royal Purple 5w30. Has it fallen out of favor?

 

I know MINI branded oil switched to 0w-20 a while ago but not sure the exact specs on it. this might help https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...-0w-20-ll-14fe

 

Everyone figured out Royal Purple isn't really anything special. It's decent oil, but probably nothing better than Castrol synthetic. They just have great marketing with the racing connection.

My biggest problem with them was always that they never reveal their base stock. Redline openly says they use Group V ester base stock, which is about as good as you're gonna get. With a bit of googling you can find this info for other brands like Amsoil or LiquiMoly. RP specifically just seems to be very tight lipped on the subject.

I think the other problem for them is that they really haven't come out with anything new, at least as long as I have been paying attention/can remember. LiquiMoly came out with the MolyGen which a ton of people think is fantastic. Amsoil is always coming out with some new racing formula or market specific formula, plus they just have a bigger racing pedigree.

Most people I know that used RP, myself included, thought it was the best thing ever because someone else into cars told them it was good, then they did some research and found out everyone else with their car was using something else. All my VW/Audi friends switched to LiquiMoly or Rowe. My domestic car driving friends all use Amsoil. I did my own research and use Redline now.

 

+1

 

What is wrong with BMW approved oils from Castrol and Mobil 1 from Walmart ? Why would you pay more when you can a 5 quarts bottle for 25 bucks. I mean for short oil change intervals up to 5000 miles, I don't see a reason to bother...
Unless you track the car or go racing, then yes, for sustained loads and high temps, you want to make sure you have the best...
Cheers

 

"BMW approved" even with short intervals does not mean that the oil is NOT prone to caking the valves.
With our GDI engines... the IVD's are an issue... more on the N14 than the N18's... but oil... even synthetic... and especially when you are talking more volatile 0W oils... does make a dif IMO.

I've not seen any reliable NOACK numbers on M1 oils.... and Castrol doesn't publish NOACK numbers either.





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Neither does Pennzoil, and the Pennzoil
Platinum Euro 0W-40 (the new SN Plus
version) I’m currently using in an N14 JCW
engine has a very high VI, but it also has
MB-approval 229.5 spec, which means its
NOACK must be less than 10%.

 

Sincere question Cristo... What do you run when it's not especially cold outside?

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Same thing year round.
My oil change interval is 5,000 miles
and I put about 7-8K on every year, so
I don’t do a fall change and a spring change.

 

Rotella T6 5w40 with GoNMF addictive. 244whp on Manic stage 3 for the last 3 years. Now at 131k miles.

 

I second the Rotella T6. Been using to in my Land Rover Discovery II for years. Started using in my 2010 S last year.

 

You guys must be running without a Catalytic converter??


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Why do you say that? Actually since I’ve been running it so hard. And with the water injection. I only burned about a quarter quart in 3K miles.

 

T6 Rotella is high in ZDDP... not great for VANOS... and will foul a catalyst.

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You should look into GoNMF and tell me what you think about that.

 

Also... It all depends on the grade/weight of Rotella T6 you are using...It is a diesel oil ... so the properties may not be ideal for our engines.
Price is always good though on the diesel oil from all mfgs.... on the thicker stuff (15W).... the Noack numbers are decent (12-ish)... but the thinner stuff... from what I can find... too high to keep from coking up the valves too much IMO. IVD's are a real issue in these GDI engines.

I use the Rotella in my customers boats...all of them.... great stuff... but those are pretty basic, low RPM, engines compared the the N14/18's.



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There’s my last oil sample I pulled.

 

Last time you pulled your intake manifold and had a look at your intake valves ?


i think that is as important on these engines as the oil tests for lubricity breakdown etc








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