Hey guys, so I've had a misfire in my engine for a long time and recently moved to California. Now I have to get smog testing done for registration but I've had the CEL on for the misfire and, as far as I know, CEL means auto fail and no registration.

I had the car checked out when I got here and it seems I have oil leaking into the engine and i'm being told I need a full engine rebuild done to fix it. I was quoted at between $3,500 and $4,000. I was wondering, could I replace the engine itself for cheaper? It's not a turbo'd model so I would assume that would make the donor engine cheaper, but I honestly don't have a clue.

It's a 2007 Mini Cooper, non-S, with 130K miles on it.

 

I personally would get the facts rights to make an informed decision.

I would check/have checked the following:
1- compression check
2- tune up. spark plugs, coils, air filter....etc
3- if the car burns oil and with this mileage, I would consider doing the valve stem seals.
4- may not be related, but i would check the timing chain/rails.

 

Thanks for the reply. I've changed the plugs, coils, air filter all before. I don't know if the mechanic that had it did a compression test or not. from what he said, it needs it's rings replaced? I'm not too sure what that means but he said there was visible carbon on the heads (I believe it was the heads, may have been pistons) and that it would need a rebuild. Timing chain was replaced about a year and a half ago, so that shouldn't be it, hopefully.

Once again, thanks for the reply.

 

the non-s is naturally aspirated and so the gas is always cleaning the valves. Rings as in piston rings. there is a chance they are worn BUT from what I've dealt with, the stem seals are the first to go.

 

So is there a cheaper thing to look at then? I really need to get the misfire cleared up so I can pass smog here in California. Would this be something a novice/back yard learner do or would it be something to take it to the shop for?

 

The sad part is you'd need a special tool to remove the intermediate shaft amd springs. Then you need the timing chain locking tool. After that, it's straight forward for the most part.

 

Damn. Looks like it's gonna be a mechanic type thing. So I want to have someone look at the stem seals and the piston rings? Is that basically going to be a rebuild or is that a lot cheaper and easier to do?

 

If this is your daily driver, you might have a mechanic do the work. the stem seals are non invasive and much cheaper that doing the rings.

I forgot to mention that you have to get the CEL checked and resolved. burning oil doesn't trigger a misfire, I think. Also, your PCV could be letting oil into cylinders as well.

 

130k miles is a lot of miles on these motors. Automatic or manual? Rest of car in good shape overall?

The only way the mechanic would know if the rings are bad is if he did a leak down test.

I changed the motor in my 2008 R56 S recently. Had 147k miles on it when the valve train failed. I did a how-to thread.

Was that quoted price including installation? Unless they are Mini EXPERTS I would not let anyone rebuild anything. Too much risk.You will hate your car after they are done with it.

Mini has new motors with 2 year warranty for $4200 if you can find a special. Thats how I got mine. Buy a new motor put in. Dont buy a used motor. These cars are too unreliable for a used motor.

Turbo or non turbo has nothing to do with direct injection and gasoline cleaning the intake valves. Non turbo can be direct injection too.

 

Wait...two year warranty on a new motor to go in an old 2007 R56? That doesn't sound all that bad. Is the $4,200 including installation or is it that much for just the engine?

 

FYI..NON TURBO cars are PORT INJECTION and not direct!!! They do not suffer from carbon build up on the intake side like DI/Turbo cars. They do however build up an extraordinary amount of carbon on the exhaust side if you use poor quality fuel.

N12/N16 are Port Injection
N14/N18 are Direct

 

I heard something about this too. I know I don't have a turbo and don't necessarily need it, but I alway throw the 91 fuel into mine anyways.

 

I didnt know the N14 NA was port injection. Thanks for that tidbit. No wonder its so gutless. Then again, at least the intake valves stay clean.

 

Total waste of money. It doesnt need high octane.

 

Just for a motor. See pics to see what comes with that motor. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4403559

That was a Mini special...but they come and go so look for it. I bet the non turbo is much cheaper. I can get you in touch with the parts guy here in Virginia who is super chill. He may offer you that discount and you have him ship it to you.

Note that while youre changing the motor their are other things you should have them change for you as they should not charge you more for it since they are removing and replacing anyway.

-Injectors (I did new injectors because they are direct injection style and easier to get to with motor out and anyway they needed to be R&R'd into the new motor. Not sure about the port injection system. It may not save you money at this stage as they might charge you extra)
-all coolant hoses (gets expensive but worth it..ask me how I know!...it was the first failure after I put in the new motor...I was chasing coolant leaks for weeks)
-alternator (at 130k...your original is likely close to death...maybe,maybe not). They arent prohibitively expensive but they are a major PIA to get to once the motor is in place.
-Starter...I changed mine cause its tough as hell to get to with the motor installed, but its a very expensive part. They tend to last so can likely hold off.
-electronic throttle body and gaskets
-water temp sensor
-friction wheel (not sure if the non turbo has one)
-belt tensioner
-belt
-water pump wheel (with the rubber outside...they tend to break apart over time)
- that's all I can think off.

 

Too bad your not still in Dayton...I just rebuilt a head on an N12 and I'm selling the whole engine with less than 90k miles for $1800 CDN (that's like $5 US..LOL)
New timing Chain kit, waterpump, seals etc. etc.

 

If you buy a used motor with a rebuilt head, make sure you have both main seals, the oil cooler seals, the valve cover gasket and have the oil pan resealed. Those are all very prone to leaking,

Same for the turbo oil return line....change it. Some guys change the oil line into the turbo for a different style fitting/line. WayMotorWorks or DetroitMini sell them I think.

Its all so easy with the engine out and a nightmare with the engine in, Never mind that the oil cooler gaskets swap requires coolant to be drained. It's a big mess.

 

Replace your mass air meter. Not too expensive. Change your oil to Liquimoly 2332 + ceratec addidtive. Leak down test is easy and will tell you a lot.