R56 n14 engine buffs please help!!!
n14 engine buffs please help!!!
I have a 2009 mini cooper s with 80k miles on it. I need some help diagnosing an oil leak issue that i have had for the last 12k miles or so. I believe that my turbo oil lines have gone bad by now so I have ordered the detroit tuned oil line/return line replacement kit and am going to install this weekend. My mystery issue is that after heating up my mini will produce white smoke at idle when sitting in traffic or at a drive through. Smoke will also creep out of my hood scoop after exhaust blips. I have oil residue going down my intake side of my engine that starts just under my diverter valve and goes down to the bottom of the engine. I can't seem to locate the source. I do not have pictures tonight but can post pictures for reference tomorrow. I have a K&N typhoon intake and a forgesport diverter valve adapter. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
it is know that the valve cover gasket goes bad.
role of thumb, clean the area good and notice where the leak comes from in few days or after drives.
The smoke happens because the oil is seeping to the exhaust and getting burned there. dry that are also.
In any condition make sure you oil LEVEL is good. otherwise you will end up with more than just an oil leak....a $$$$ leak/explosion
let us know
role of thumb, clean the area good and notice where the leak comes from in few days or after drives.
The smoke happens because the oil is seeping to the exhaust and getting burned there. dry that are also.
In any condition make sure you oil LEVEL is good. otherwise you will end up with more than just an oil leak....a $$$$ leak/explosion
let us know
A long time ago my thermostat blew and I took it into the mini dealership and they told me they wouldn't replace my thermostat under warranty and also informed me my valve cover gasket was bad but it was also not covered by warranty (why did I buy a $3k extended warranty?!?!) but I persuaded them to replace it under warranty after calling the warranty company. Could my valve cover already be bad again? I'll post pictures when I get home
As a general rule:
White smoke - coolant
Blue smoke - oil
Black smoke- fuel
Best guess is a leaky head gasket on white smoke at idle. Once warm the coolant system is pressurized. Oil leaks below the diverted valve are usually the seals on oil cooler assy.
White smoke - coolant
Blue smoke - oil
Black smoke- fuel
Best guess is a leaky head gasket on white smoke at idle. Once warm the coolant system is pressurized. Oil leaks below the diverted valve are usually the seals on oil cooler assy.
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 36
From: Metro Detroit Area, Michigan
Thanks for getting the Turbo oil line! it will serve you well. As for the other problems. you could be having valve seals issues that is allowing oil to get into the cylinder then burning up. It could also be a ring issue. This is were you are going to need to do some testing with a compression test, as well as a cold/hot leak down and a dry and wet leak down test. this info will give you lots of info on which part needs to be replaced. but i do know that we are seeing a lot of cars that have rock hard valve seals.
As for the leaks in that area we see them at the oil filter housing which is below the diverter valve (part of our TOL Super Kit!), or at the vacuum pump on the side of the head, as well as the oil pressure switch right next to it which also on the side of the head.
As for the leaks in that area we see them at the oil filter housing which is below the diverter valve (part of our TOL Super Kit!), or at the vacuum pump on the side of the head, as well as the oil pressure switch right next to it which also on the side of the head.
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I have never done any of these tests before but I really don't want to take it to BMW and have them screw me over with their diagnostic fee. Does the leak down test involve any major equipment that is special to the mini?
...It could also be a ring issue. This is were you are going to need to do some testing with a compression test, as well as a cold/hot leak down and a dry and wet leak down test. this info will give you lots of info on which part needs to be replaced. but i do know that we are seeing a lot of cars that have rock hard valve seals...
Also, I've changed valve seals on other cars but never on a mini. Are the valve seals complicated on these cars?
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Hi.
Piston rings will mean oil is making its way from the sump/cylinder wall into the combustion chamber. In this suggestion, it is potentially the cause for the smoke out of the exhaust.
It may be possible due to piston ring wear to create excessive pressure in the crankcase. IE some of the combustion burn/explosion is making its way past the rings and into the sump/crankcase. If it is more than the breathers can deal with, the pressure finds its way out. Either through a gasket or some other way. That could create a leak.
I am not saying these are the issues, but just answering the chaps questions about how the two could relate.
I have also replaced my valve steam seals but that was with the head off.
Cheers,
Steven RW
Piston rings will mean oil is making its way from the sump/cylinder wall into the combustion chamber. In this suggestion, it is potentially the cause for the smoke out of the exhaust.
It may be possible due to piston ring wear to create excessive pressure in the crankcase. IE some of the combustion burn/explosion is making its way past the rings and into the sump/crankcase. If it is more than the breathers can deal with, the pressure finds its way out. Either through a gasket or some other way. That could create a leak.
I am not saying these are the issues, but just answering the chaps questions about how the two could relate.
I have also replaced my valve steam seals but that was with the head off.
Cheers,
Steven RW
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 36
From: Metro Detroit Area, Michigan
They are basic tools that you can get or rent at any auto parts store, but you will need compressed air.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 36
From: Metro Detroit Area, Michigan
To replace the valve seals the head needs to come off.
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I dismantled my engine bay today so I could remove my old turbo oil line and what a pain in the a** that was. There is a TON of oil residue on the front side of my engine starting at the bottom side of my turbo. I took some pictures for reference and I am waiting for them to be sent to my email so i can upload them. Both ends of my turbo oil feed line were loose where they meet the banjo bolts. Is that normal? I know it doesnt really matter since I am replacing it with the detroit tuned line but I would like to know. Would a bad valve cover gasket cause oil to leak down the front of my engine?
I've read that our oil pump / cooler also has gasket issues. Take a look at RealOEM illustrated parts list ---http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select --- to get part numbers. Note that there's two "layers" of gaskets --- don't change just one layer, change both.
Looks like you've also got oil coming out of the wastegate pivot arm on the turbine housing. At your mileage it's probably time for new thrust bearing, journal bearings, etc. Kits are available online if you're so inclined. Make sure to mark the comp wheel position in relation to the turbine wheel before disassembly or it will have to be balanced. If the thrust bearing has chewed into the housing it's new turbo time. I'd steer clear of the Chinese CHRA's that are out there.
The valve seals are a PIA to change and very time consuming since you have to pull the head to do it the right way. That however opens up a whole nother can of worms.
The valve seals are a PIA to change and very time consuming since you have to pull the head to do it the right way. That however opens up a whole nother can of worms.










