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R56 Holy Crap: $6,500

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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 01:08 PM
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Holy Crap: $6,500

Hello, all!

I have a 2007 Mini S, with around 50k miles. I don't drive much (obviously) and I don't drive vigorously. My thought process is that I need this car to last me the rest of my life. My last payment on it was in November of last year. I paid about 18k for it.

Welp, Murphy's Law kicked in and now I'm having start up issues. It just won't. The batter was replaced with the past 6 months and I have never had this issue before.

Anyway, I have a car guy who is great. He told me to bring it to a dealer because it might be a recalled part issue.

It's not. It's about half a dozen other issues and the grand total is $6,500, but thankfully, I don't need to repair everything at once.

The actual problem is that the guy at the dealer doesn't know if all these repairs will actually fix the start up issue.

My car guy is a local small shop guy who has taken absolute care of me. I refuse to go to anyone else and he asked the right questions. "What needs to be fixed for the start up issue?" Both the dealer with my CG knows I don't want to spend that type of cash (who the hell does?)

So, just a little vent and really looking to see if anyone else had the same issue and what was done to fix it!

TL;DR: Start up issues. Dealer claims half a dozen problems need to be fixed. Dealer isn't sure if this will fix the start up problem. Local Car Guy is on my side and asking right questions.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 01:32 PM
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What does he want to fix?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 01:42 PM
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He wants to clean some valves, because they get clogged up with an S if you don't drive it all the time. I guess the oil heats and cools and heats and cools and clogs up.
Aux Water Pump, a valve cover vent hose, fuel injection thing, timing chain housing is cracked, and some oil feed lines need replacing.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 01:47 PM
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If your local guy doesn't know MINI well enough find another independent shop. Dealer is the last place to go. Valve cleaning is under $500 from an independent shop. All the other stuff is a lot cheaper as well.

Dealer wants you to be priced out of repair so you will trade in for a new one.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 01:50 PM
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My car guy has actually taken care of it for the past few years, up until this start up issue. It seems like a weird thing that the dealer can't pinpoint exactly why it won't start up normally.

I will keep my options open and think about looking for a local mini specific shop. Thanks. The dealer said the cleaning was about 750. Sheesh!
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 04:00 AM
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To be able to point you to the right direction, we need to know what is the issue on start up? What does it do when you start it. What has been done on the car so far since the issue started. Can you attach a short vid of the issue?
Are you pulling any CEL codes?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 04:48 AM
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Commonly, cold startup issues can be caused by a failing high pressure fuel pump (HPFP). There is a recall/campaign on replacing these for certain model years.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 07:04 AM
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OK, Dealer procedures are to just throw new parts at it and hope one of them fixed the problem...whatever the problem was, they don't know. An indie, like your guy, want's to find the problem and fix it. Walk away from the dealer.
From my collection of 80 some MINI specific web sites folder, I've posted this link on NAM 3 or 4 times last week alone. Hope it helps.
http://www.minirepairshops.com/
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
Commonly, cold startup issues can be caused by a failing high pressure fuel pump (HPFP). There is a recall/campaign on replacing these for certain model years.
That's exactly why the car went to the dealer in the first place, but it's actually perfectly functional at the moment and not the issue at all. :-/
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
To be able to point you to the right direction, we need to know what is the issue on start up? What does it do when you start it. What has been done on the car so far since the issue started. Can you attach a short vid of the issue?
Are you pulling any CEL codes?
Well, it's definitely not like with a dead battery. My battery died at the end of the last years so I have experience with what that would sound like.

I can't get video because it's still at the dealer, unfortunately, but the way I would describe it is that it's like the first 2 seconds of a regular start up and then dies. It was suggested that I pump the gas while I'm starting up but that really doesn't do anything. It has taken up to 11 starts for it to work. I can hear when it's going to work within the next one or two because it kind of lags. I know this isn't really helpful. Ugh. :-/
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Fly'n Brick
OK, Dealer procedures are to just throw new parts at it and hope one of them fixed the problem...whatever the problem was, they don't know. An indie, like your guy, want's to find the problem and fix it. Walk away from the dealer.
From my collection of 80 some MINI specific web sites folder, I've posted this link on NAM 3 or 4 times last week alone. Hope it helps.
http://www.minirepairshops.com/
Thank you. I really should have done a search before coming here but in a mode of panic and annoyance at my mini.. Thank you again.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 09:36 AM
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If it is the HPFP you will not always get a CEL so you need to monitor the high pressure fuel rail pressure when this happens. You can use Dashcommand (iPhone) or the Torque (Android) app along with a OBD2 dongle. If you see the pressure drop drastically then you can conclude that it is in fact the HPFP and you can tell the dealer what you saw, if not then move on something else.

If you happen to live in really cold weather, the throttle body can freeze and MINI makes a cold weather intake to help with this.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Drove
It was suggested that I pump the gas
absolutely useless on a computer controlled throttle by wire system.

Originally Posted by Drove
fuel injection thing
can you clarify that?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 09:38 AM
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My car would crank then die or it would stumble and want to die. I figured it was the HPFP got an appointment with the dealer got in my car that morning to take it cranked right up no problems so I didn't take it in wasn't gonna argue with them about it. But it didn't give me a code and didn't do it all the time. I found a untested HPFP on eBay for $100 decided to give it a shot. Changed it out and no problems since.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Drove
Well, it's definitely not like with a dead battery. My battery died at the end of the last years so I have experience with what that would sound like.

I can't get video because it's still at the dealer, unfortunately, but the way I would describe it is that it's like the first 2 seconds of a regular start up and then dies. It was suggested that I pump the gas while I'm starting up but that really doesn't do anything. It has taken up to 11 starts for it to work. I can hear when it's going to work within the next one or two because it kind of lags. I know this isn't really helpful. Ugh. :-/
since the car is at the stealership, there isnt anything you can do to test it. if it is the HPFP like suggested, use the "quick start" spray. Spray after the inter-cooler and right after the the last elbow that goes to the intake manifold.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 12:25 PM
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I got my car back from the dealer. My car guy and them went back and forth and I decided to take it to another place because it would be cheaper. The dealer ended up changing the HPFP and from what people said in this thread, that probably was the problem the entire time. No charge to me except to pay for the gas for the rental. Fingers crossed that my car is fixed for now, although I do know the above mentioned does need to be addressed at some point.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by gjxj
absolutely useless on a computer controlled throttle by wire system.



can you clarify that?
Sure. Your gas pedal is connected to an electronic wire. It is not a mechanical rod. So it isn't pumping any gas.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Drove
I got my car back from the dealer. My car guy and them went back and forth and I decided to take it to another place because it would be cheaper. The dealer ended up changing the HPFP and from what people said in this thread, that probably was the problem the entire time. No charge to me except to pay for the gas for the rental. Fingers crossed that my car is fixed for now, although I do know the above mentioned does need to be addressed at some point.
That is really good news for you. Hope this works out for you.

No offense to your car guy, but most of us here have been around the block with these cars and unfortunately a good car guy can sometimes be stumped by a MINI. That is why we always advise you to find a quality MINI independent shop near you. The MINI dealer is always going to be the top price and not always the best work.

I have several car guy friends and they can build you a big block ford or Chevy with their eyes closed. But a MINI branded, BMW made, Peugeot engine with direct injection, turbo charged, oil burning, clogged intake valves, timing chain eating motor is not something for them to diagnose.

Now, Go drive that thing like you stole it and have some fun.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 05r50
Sure. Your gas pedal is connected to an electronic wire. It is not a mechanical rod. So it isn't pumping any gas.
Technically the traditional "gas" pedal never pumped gas either it just opened or closed the throttle plate which regulated the amount of air that entered the engine. (But we know what your saying).

Now it is all computer controlled. There are even cars now with brake by wire and steer by wire systems.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 05r50
That is really good news for you. Hope this works out for you.

No offense to your car guy, but most of us here have been around the block with these cars and unfortunately a good car guy can sometimes be stumped by a MINI. That is why we always advise you to find a quality MINI independent shop near you. The MINI dealer is always going to be the top price and not always the best work.

I have several car guy friends and they can build you a big block ford or Chevy with their eyes closed. But a MINI branded, BMW made, Peugeot engine with direct injection, turbo charged, oil burning, clogged intake valves, timing chain eating motor is not something for them to diagnose.

Now, Go drive that thing like you stole it and have some fun.
Thanks! I haven't had issues or any sound of issues since the change. Very sad and frustrated how business is more important than customer care but at least I got that out of the way. And also, because of this place, I did find an independent mini expertise, who my car guy knows as well, so between them and my car guy, I'm definitely covered.

Thanks all for the advice! The best advice was "dealer is the last place to go". My car guy and I stood our ground and we're glad with the results.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
Technically the traditional "gas" pedal never pumped gas either it just opened or closed the throttle plate which regulated the amount of air that entered the engine. (But we know what your saying).
actually if you are old enough to remember carburetors they (or at least some) indeed had an accelerator pump to literally pump an extra squirt of gas each time you floored the go pedal. (You could sometimes even hear it squirt the fuel). I'm sure this is the origin of folks 'pumping' the pedal while trying the start even though it no longer does anything.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2017 | 01:52 AM
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The last carb that I had was a 1978 CJ7 with a 304. I was under the impression that fueling on carbs happened due to air moving through the barrels and pulling the gasoline through the jets (like a Venturi effect). That said I'm not too familiar with them. I'll have to read up on it.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2017 | 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
I was under the impression that fueling on carbs happened due to air moving through the barrels and pulling the gasoline through the jets (like a Venturi effect).
of course...the accelerator pump adds excess fuel to richen the mixture on top of what comes from the jets.
 
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