HI Everyone - I just bought a 2007 Mini Cooper S for my son with 67k miles.

Seller showed me the code that indicates it needs a new bypass blow off valve(code28AA). Assuming I need to replace the bypass valve, and not looking for anything other than stock like performance, what advice do you have.

In addition, I would really appreciate advice on what other preventive repairs I should do and what recalls I should verify or take advantage of. I am of the mind that the timing chain update is a must.

Any advice on sources of supply would be appreciated. Shocks are also probably areat end of life. I'm not looking to hot rod this so a good OEM like solution would be great.

Also, I noticed that there are no steering wheel controls for volume; cruise control. What does that suggest in the way of packages? It does have 18" wheels with a cotter pin deal at the outer edge of each axle - not sure what that is about.

Thanks - HBondar

 

Pretty low miles. Just get the part from the dealer. Its like $70 and the updated part is much better , Recalls just have your key read at a dealer and find out. You can log onto the MINI owners site register and see there too. Any thing open obviously do it for free, Biggest preventative thing I can tell you is doing your oil changes every 4k. Also check it every thousand miles. Having worked at a dealership that was the #1 reason n14s got a bad rep. They were all ran for long periods of time on low oil. Customers would never check their oil. So 3 or 4 oil changes like that would eventually lead to bad turbos, VANOS issues, chains going bad etc. Aside from that make sure you have the updated water pump. The old one was black. If you don't want to wait for them to leak replacing the oil filter housing gasket, and both turbo oil lines are not a bad idea. After that just keep an eye out for stuff. At 67k miles you can still maintain it to go well over 100k.

Oh almost forgot walnut blast of the intake valves. I would recommend that every 20k. My buddy does it ever 10k to his S. Rockauto.com has always been great for parts.

 

JCdubGerm - Thanks for the response. I take it you are referring to the updated bypass valve?

With regard to the timing chain - would it make sense to just install a new tensioner? Can that be done as a simple swap - meaning - leaving everything else in place. It does not seem like that would through off the valve timing??

 

This really sums up alot but let me add a few things. Instead of the OEM part get the Forge DV it will hold the boost a lot better. I just changed my water pump and thermostat with OEM Parts from RMEuropean.com. If you ever have to change them also change the coolant pipe that runs under the intake manifold. You will thank me later. Valve Covers is known to crack mine cracked at about 97k. Coil Packs and Plugs are always a good thing. As for the walnut blasting it works wonders on how the car runs. After I did mine it pulls soo hard I had to get motor mount inserts to help with the torque steer. I check the oil every two weeks and change my oil every 5K. Maybe do a brake flush as well and listen for that timing chain rattle once you hear that get that thing changed quickly.

 

Thanks - great info. I was also looking at the DV+ diverter valve from Mini Mania (http://new.minimania.com/part/G2NME3080/) as it looks pretty simple and I am not looking for performance enhancements. This is a car for my son and it is already FAST ENOUGH
Also - if I was going to upgrade the chain tensioner to a newer model - and I do not have any apparent chain noise at this point - which one would I use. I read through some posts and it is very confusing!

 

We offer a few direct replacements for the diverter valve
1 is the stock replacement
https://www.waymotorworks.com/mini-d...9-r60-r61.html

2. our WMW upgrade that works a little faster
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-pe...off-valve.html

For shocks the KONI FSDs are great direct replacements and ride so much better than stock
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-f...5-r56-r57.html

Timing chains are by far the most common issue with the N14 engine. But you may be able to get it warrantied as we have had several people get them covered so I'd try to get the dealer to warranty it before spending money on it.
Also water pumps commonly leak, but also have an ext MINI warranty on some cars.

 

Before you touch the chain tensioner have it checked at the dealer. They will measure the slack in the chain and if it's out of tolerance they should replace the entire timing chain cassette. But, if they find an updated tensioner you're on your own. They replaced the cassette on my '07 with 120K miles on it. Didn't cost me a dime.
I also used the Forge DV. It really improves the upshifts by bleeding off excess boost much faster than the stock unit. I would also recommend Detroit Tuned for the Turbo Oil Line Kit. While that is being done I would also replace the "O" ring gasket on the oil heat exchanger (the part that the filter is mounted to). Definitely replace the stock plastic water pump with the upgraded OEM metal unit. And, while you're in that area you may as well replace the belt. Check the T-stat for leaks too. they are notorious for that, but OEM is the only Jarvik Heart you'll find for the Mini. My '07 had 137K miles on it when I traded. With frequent oil changes and monitoring and being proactive about replacing inferior or failing parts your Mini should have many more mile in it.

 

One big item: Check the oil weekly if not more. These engines use a lot of oil compared to the non-direct injection engines. Buy an aftermarket dipstick, as the stock dipstick is almost impossible to read, unless you're in direct sunlight. Don't wait 14k miles to change the oil; do it every 5k.

 

+1 on what they said.
I'm bettin' it has a manual gear box. If so, teach the lad how to keep his foot away from the clutch pedal when he's not shifting. Shift to neutral stopped at intersections or just idling and get off the clutch. Ignorance of that leads to early and expensive replacement of clutches and TO bearings. And, no downshifting until he learns how to heel and toe rev match.