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Yea, it might be enough to trigger it because it get some pressure , just not all at one. Let me know if you can smell a little gas around near the tank seal.
Before removing the pump and with the issue present, I could not smell gas around rear seats. Now I can but because there is some gas cleaned after removing and reinstalling the pump.
ok, then its not coming back out the seal, but might be going in and then loosing pressure on the line.
I'm thinking in getting some stuff to check fuel pressure on the system or buying a new fuel pump.
I could read my system fuel pressure in my Base model with the tool you are offering at the ECS site?
No worries! We are all here to learn about MINI, so glad I could help. You can still check the low pressure value and see if it's in spec. If it's not it could be a filter, pump, or relay issue.
Thank you again.
I could read my system fuel pressure in my Base model with any tool that you could be offering at the PelicanPart site?
Thank you again.
I could read my system fuel pressure in my Base model with any tool that you could be offering at the PelicanPart site?
My pleasure. A BMW/MINI scan tool should be able to view the DME, then fuel pump/pressure. We use AutoEnginuity. I know a lot of MINI owners use the Carly App, but not sure that can read fueling specific.
I'm thinking in getting some stuff to check fuel pressure on the system or buying a new fuel pump.
I could read my system fuel pressure in my Base model with the tool you are offering at the ECS site?
It will show the fuel rate when running, its under the engine section.
My pleasure. A BMW/MINI scan tool should be able to view the DME, then fuel pump/pressure. We use AutoEnginuity. I know a lot of MINI owners use the Carly App, but not sure that can read fueling specific.
I was checking the fuel pump replacement guide (for R53 models, not for R56) at PelicanParts.com site I can see two steps that I did not realize any of the 2 times I've cleaned and reinstalled my fuell pump:
1) "Locate the Schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail and remove the black plastic cover (green arrow), just like a bicycle tire."
Yes, I'm seeing it.
2) "Use a small screwdriver to press the pin in the center of the Schrader valve to relieve any remaining pressure (green arrow). It's a good idea to have plenty of rags surrounding the screwdriver to absorb any fuel that squirts out."
No, never done. No the first time, no the second time.
This steps are not present in the R56 pump replacement guide.
Could this omission cause a problem?
May be I need to disconnect the battery, and take step 1 and 2 and close the Schrader valve to avoid any fuel pressure problem or air in the fuel system?
I have good and bad news.
The bad news is that today the problem is worse.
When I just inserted the key, the service symbol (yelow car) immediately appeared in my tach.
When I tried to start the car, the car had the same behavior as when a HPFP is failing (I have not HPFP) and the car could not reach the 1200+ RPM to warm the engine. Just idle in 700 RPM like when the engine is hot. Driving to work was without any problem.
In addition, last night I cleaned the entire interior of the car and this morning I can smell fuel. That means that the fuel pump was not reinstalled properly the last time (there is not seals but not closed properly as commented by NCS).
The pump is in it last days surely. I'm low in fuel (not in reserve, but low) and I'm sure that is not helping a lot.
The good news is that when I return to home, surely I have some error code stored in the car to read (I expect related with a fuel pump error).
I was checking the fuel pump replacement guide (for R53 models, not for R56) at PelicanParts.com site I can see two steps that I did not realize any of the 2 times I've cleaned and reinstalled my fuell pump:
1) "Locate the Schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail and remove the black plastic cover (green arrow), just like a bicycle tire."
Yes, I'm seeing it.
2) "Use a small screwdriver to press the pin in the center of the Schrader valve to relieve any remaining pressure (green arrow). It's a good idea to have plenty of rags surrounding the screwdriver to absorb any fuel that squirts out."
No, never done. No the first time, no the second time.
This steps are not present in the R56 pump replacement guide.
Could this omission cause a problem?
May be I need to disconnect the battery, and take step 1 and 2 and close the Schrader valve to avoid any fuel pressure problem or air in the fuel system?
Thank you!
No, this wont be related. The best thing you can do is test when the problem is present. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Sounds like you've got some error codes that'll help trace down your issue though. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
No, this wont be related. The best thing you can do is test when the problem is present. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Sounds like you've got some error codes that'll help trace down your issue though. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
OK, thank you for your answer.
I will be checking for error codes today.
Since the issue is present, there is not any error code stored (checked with Rheingold). All modules and values seems to be OK.
while ordering the correct fuel pump for my car (thanks to ECS & PelicanParts) tonight I will be trying to improve the bad fuel pump behavior.
1) I will fill the tank to run with full gas.
2) I will extract and reinstall the fuel pump from the tank
I think since the ring is not easy to turn it to remove it nor turn it to tighten (without the proper tool and only with a hammer and a screwdriver), there is not reinstalled properly. Additionally I bought grease/vaseline so that the ring will be easier to turn it while pressing the pump. I think definitely the pump is not adjusted as it should (harder).
3) I will be searching the files for my INPA software to try to read engine values on real time where trying starting up the car (actually I have not the files for my N16 engine, just for N12 and N14).
4) I will run a full check with ISTA Rheingold looking for error codes.
Today I learned a lesson.
For my pump model, you really need the right tool to close properly the ring over the pump or you need a second person to press the pump into the tank while you hit the ring with a screwdriver and a hammer. Adding grease to the ring helped a lot too.
Today I have reinstalled the pump with the help of a friend and I could see that the fuel pump was not 100% pressed to the bottom of the tank.
Now the ring was closed and turned correctly and the fuel pump totally pressed. No fuel/air leaks.
After that, the fuel tank has been filled.
I did the fuel pump test from INPA, without problems (pressure pump on for 10 seconds).
I have also deleted from INPA the "fuel on-off learned" by the car.
No error codes found on ISTA Rheingold (I was waiting for something related with fuel, pressure, start engine, etc).
By checking the status with the engine on I could see this 2 issues:
Massenstrom vom HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
Mass flow from HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
Today I learned a lesson.
For my pump model, you really need the right tool to close properly the ring over the pump or you need a second person to press the pump into the tank while you hit the ring with a screwdriver and a hammer. Adding grease to the ring helped a lot too.
Today I have reinstalled the pump with the help of a friend and I could see that the fuel pump was not 100% pressed to the bottom of the tank.
Now the ring was closed and turned correctly and the fuel pump totally pressed. No fuel/air leaks.
After that, the fuel tank has been filled.
I did the fuel pump test from INPA, without problems (pressure pump on for 10 seconds).
I have also deleted from INPA the "fuel on-off learned" by the car.
No error codes found on ISTA Rheingold (I was waiting for something related with fuel, pressure, start engine, etc).
By checking the status with the engine on I could see this 2 issues:
Massenstrom vom HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
Mass flow from HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
I was curious if the JCW pumps were effected.
(2011 JCW)
I did a little research and the 2011 JCW and
2011 S pump P/Ns are different.
Called the stealership and they say no recalls
And my VIN not effected.
Yet the HPFP was changed 3 months after delivery date back in 3/11.
If anyone can really decode the HPFP
Mystery it would be great.
I keep seeing all these posts about
The stealership honoring pump warranties
Even on the N18s.
I was researching about the HPFP but since I have a Mini Cooper non-S, there is not a HPFP on the engine. Just the fuel pump on the gas tank.
Since it is an Euro MINI there is not filter on the passenger side, just a fuel pump tank with a filter integrated on the pump base.
In my case, the fail seems to be the fuel pump on the gas tank (the only one) if not any air/fuel leak on the fuel line.
Now I have in my hands the new in-tank fuel pump plus the rubber O Ring.
Not installed yet because:
All my life I was driving between 1/4 and 1/2 fuel level.
To test the current fuel pump (while waiting the new one) I was running all the time between 3/4 and full fuel level.
Since that, the fuel pump is working OK !
I know you should not run the car with the lowest fuel level (the pump is not properly refrigerated and needs more effort to send fuel).
I didn't know that using full fuel tank level could fix the issue