Nope their disposable.

 

any idea what that thing is?

 

Thats a coil pack for a supercharged engine.

 

Let expand a little. Problem with searching Rock auto with a 2007 MINI is they were still making the convertables with supercharged engines. Rockauto's sorting system sucks. You have to look really close and see if it specifies the engine. If it starts with a "W" then its supercharged and is not for you. Sometimes, they just screw it up all together. There are a few parts sites that work like that. Thats why I use ECS for my parts supplier, your chance for parts screw up is very minimal.

 

funny you live in cooper city. I'm in stuart.

anyway, I put two new coils in 2 days ago and 4 new ngk spark plugs today. I cleaned up the spark plug contact point in the two old coils and got it shiny with a flat blade screw driver today.

unfortantunaly none of that fixed the cold stalling. the new coils did seem to clear up the misfire faults that I was getting on cyl 2 and 4. but today when I put the new plugs in and cleaned the two coils. I got one misfire fault on a old coil. I also figured out that when the half engine light is on. I get a P3091 fault. googling shows: P3091 - Fuel Rail Pressure Pressure-Rate-Controlled, fallen below minimum pressure.

its a pending fault and will only show if I scan while the half engine light is on. the way I figured how to get the half engine light on is let it idle rough for a bit instead of giving it gas right away. and while it is idling rough, give it a blimp of gas. its so delayed that it will hardly raise the rpm. and that seems to get the light on.

hope I didn't damage the coil when I was cleaning the contact point today. may swap that coil tomorrow and see if it changes.

also discovered that cylinder 2's spark plug was almost hand tight. I probably could have loosened it by hand if I really tried. there was oil on the threads.

looking like I'll have to take it to mini.

 

Sounds like you got it figured out. Nicely done. I would have the decoke done while they're changing the pump. It will feel like a whole new car. Do not let them sell you the fuel injection system cleaning as it doesn't do much more than a bottle of fuel injector cleaner from an auto parts store can do. If you decide not to do the walnut blasting you can always do a Seafoam treatment. It helps for a little while, but in truth it's more like putting a bandaid on a sucking chest wound.

 

just dropped it off at mini. told them everything. I tried to get the half engine light to come on the other day but couldn't do it. and I think the SA said they wont replace the hpfp unless they get a code. I told them the P3091 code I got. but unless they get that half engine light on, they won't see a code. I may be screwed. the injection system and carbon cleaning is $1600 he said.

 

The dealer should at the very least measure both fuel pumps before going any further, that's proper procedure. $1600 is insane for carbon cleaning, I paid $800 for my injection system and carbon cleaning. Then a few months later I hear that other member's only paid $550. There seems to be this large gap between Mini dealers and some are just insane! You should bring this to your dealers attention, let them know your aware of the going rate for the carbon cleaning. Late last year I paid $1500 to drop my transmission and re-install it, that job is much more labor intensive that carbon cleaning.

 

Dude, your HPFP is going bad. Just from reading your first post I could tell. If you look at posts I made about a year ago hear you will see that I had the exact same symptoms with my 2009 Clubman S. The intake valve cleaning will not help the stalling but it is good to do for increased horsepower and throttle response, though you can get it done for around $400 at an independent, well maybe a little more, but $1600 is way too much, or you can buy a special kit and do it yourself. If I were you I would try to get the dealer to see the code, whether that means leaving the car there for a few days or what have you, and they will replace the HPFP for free under the 10 year 120,000 mile warranty. Do not pay $1600 for intake valve cleaning (walnut shell blasting). Good luck.

 

Here is the DIY intake cleaning:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html






Here is the DIY HPFP:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-r56-jcw.html





Good luck and I hope you can get it covered , otherwise those two links will help.

 

so it ended up being the hpfp. heres what the invoice said. I guess they charged the battery to get the engine light on? dont know. maybe having the battery fully charged gets the half engine light on.

 

Thanks for the update, just looks like diagnostic hook up. Yea, same thing on HPFP DIY linked above.

 

Glad you got it fixed. Sorry I called you dude. It was just frustrating hearing you spend time with the coil packs and other things when it seemed so obvious to me that it was the HPFP. Well, it's hard to be certain sometimes I know. Thanks for the follow-up.

 

lol, no worries. from the research ive done. the symptoms for hpfp and carbon build up are the same. but when I finally got that fuel rail fault later in this thread. that made me think it was the hpfp. without that fault though, how do the two's symptoms differ?

I still think maybe the coils were bad. cause the misfire faults changed when I swapped the 1 and 3 coils with 2 and 4. I may put the old coils back in and see if the faults come back for the heck of it.

 

I'm having the same sequence of faults as Gabe under cold start conditions:

P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic)
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic)
P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic)

During the cold starts with rough idles, I'm seeing the fuel rail pressure bounce between 90 and 200 psi for 10-15 seconds with a flashing CEL. After the fuel loop status changes to Closed, the pressure jumps to around 800 PSI and the idle smooths out. I then get solid CEL with the 3 codes above.

During a warm start the fuel rail pressure immediately jumps to 800 PSI and the idle is perfectly smooth.

Tonight I rotated the coils to see if the faults move to cylinders 2 & 4 and cleared the codes but couldn't reproduce the faults because the engine was warm. (I plan on replacing the coils since they are original with 48k miles, spark plugs have 5k miles.)

Thoughts? This sounds like the start of HPFP failure but I'm hesitant to take it to the dealer with all my mods as they've already complained about them on past visits.

 

You could always just change the pump yourself. One connector, two fuel lines and three bolts. The only finicky part is getting off the LP fuel line if you don't have the tool for it. Im told a scribe or pick will work in a pinch though. Make sure you disconnect the battery. If the DME wakes up you'll have a nice fuel spay when the LP pump engages. Don't ask me how I know that though

 

Thanks for the tip on the DME.

After rotating the coils I haven't had any issues with cold starts. Is this typical when the pump is starting to fail? I've seen other threads where the pump fails completely while driving.

 

To get the LP fuel line off take 13mm wrench and thin the open end alittle bit. Then you can fit it in and just unwind the fitting from the pump.
QD for LPF line can stay connected.
Also, start it up cold. Immediately bring the rpm up to about 1500. Hold there til the engine smooths out. It'll rev slightly. It'll keeps it from idling rough and flashing codes til the pump gets replaced. I got a new pump from mini. 3 months it was junk. Just because it don't kick a HPFP code don't mean the pump ain't bad. Just Another we're not paying for it scam by mini.

 

I'm planning on replacing the HPFP myself before it fails completely so thanks for the tips on the process!

I'm going to order an OEM pump, did Mini make any design changes to make them last longer? Is it necessary to replace the metal fuel line? Looks like most vendors sell it as an option.

 

No the line doesn't need to be replaced. Both the Continental and Bosch fuel pumps are on their third iteration. Usually the rough idle is the first symptom which gets progressively worse before manifesting problems while driving. Some however have been known to crap out with little to no warning.

 

Good luck and let us know how it went. Its the lastest generation of pumps, have not opened one up to look at it.

 

Anybody had cold start issues and it not be the fuel pump ? Just replaced it, problem still exists.

 

I'd look for an air leak (usual culprit) first followed by primary and secondary resistance check on the coils then compression check. If you suspect worn rings run the check cold and hot. Also check AFR on cold start. Connect data logger with key turned on to get a reading then start it so you can capture the initial numbers. A heavily ported head can run lean on cold start. If this is new though focus on 1, 2 and 3.

 

My head isn't heavily ported, what in the world would give you that idea.

 

Finished my HPFP replacement and hopefully this has solved my problem. Engine idles very smoothly now and started on the first try with the fuel rail pressure immediately going to 750 PSI. Engine pulls like crazy with zero hesitation now.

Special thanks to ECSTuning for posting the links to the DIY! I took several pictures and notes that I'm going to add to that thread based on issues I encountered.