Hello
im facing a problem with my mini cooper s 2008 hatchback, odo meter 39,000 Km
a warning came up saying " Engine failure, reduced power "
and when scanning the car, no codes show up
i replaced the TURBO itself with no luck
i fixed the water pump, i replaced the thermostat since first the scanner showed that its no working
the car runs normally but it has acceleration power
everything seems to run quite well
any suggestions please to check? its now like a month with this issue
im facing a problem with my mini cooper s 2008 hatchback, odo meter 39,000 Km
a warning came up saying " Engine failure, reduced power "
and when scanning the car, no codes show up
i replaced the TURBO itself with no luck
i fixed the water pump, i replaced the thermostat since first the scanner showed that its no working
the car runs normally but it has acceleration power
everything seems to run quite well
any suggestions please to check? its now like a month with this issue
6th Gear
Go somewhere that has a proper code reader. The dealer, for instance, has one. There are codes that the more generic readers don't see. I bet you have at least one of those.
Paying the diagnostic fee is still cheaper than replacing a turbo...
Paying the diagnostic fee is still cheaper than replacing a turbo...
1st Gear
You put the cart before the horse here bud. Start with the basics and this will tell us the health of the engine. Don't throw any parts at it before you do some basic stuff.
- Go to local auto parts store and have them use their in house scanner for codes.
- Also have them put a digital analyzer on your battery (many faults caused by this)
- Pull the battery cable and leave for an hour unhooked (sometimes clears issues)
- Check condition of plug ends and google "How to read spark plugs"
- Compression check (google)
- leak down check (google)
- Check fuel pressure and volume
- Go to local auto parts store and have them use their in house scanner for codes.
- Also have them put a digital analyzer on your battery (many faults caused by this)
- Pull the battery cable and leave for an hour unhooked (sometimes clears issues)
- Check condition of plug ends and google "How to read spark plugs"
- Compression check (google)
- leak down check (google)
- Check fuel pressure and volume
guys i truly appreciate your replies.
meanwhile i scanned my mini again and the following code popped up :
2885 Boost Pressure Control Deviation Plausibility Error
current position:
Battery brand New
Turbocharger Brand New
Thermostat Brand new
the car is operating in a normal way just there is no boost, with a yellow half check engine sign
i searched for this code alot online, it seems that this particular code doesnt lead to a direct or specific fault
meanwhile i scanned my mini again and the following code popped up :
2885 Boost Pressure Control Deviation Plausibility Error
current position:
Battery brand New
Turbocharger Brand New
Thermostat Brand new
the car is operating in a normal way just there is no boost, with a yellow half check engine sign
i searched for this code alot online, it seems that this particular code doesnt lead to a direct or specific fault
1st Gear
I have a 2007 MCS on a trip last night mine popped up the same thing. Nothing weird, drove and ran fine, just no boost. I have checked all items and seems ok. I would like to reset it and see what happens. Anyone have ideas of how to reset the message?
6th Gear
"Brand new" does not always mean "perfect". Check the battery voltage across the posts with a decent voltmeter. If it's below about 12.5V or about 13V with the engine off, something isn't right with the charging system. (Which includes the battery, BTW.)
Inspect the turbo as well as you can. If you can remove it and check for play in the shaft and look for scrapes and other wear marks, do so. (If you can't, then you can't.)
Check for anywhere that boost could be leaking. The "boost pressure implausible" makes me think that there is a leak somewhere, of the blow-off valve (or whatever this system uses to control boost pressure) is not working correctly, or the turbo isn't spooling up and providing pressure.
Good luck!
Inspect the turbo as well as you can. If you can remove it and check for play in the shaft and look for scrapes and other wear marks, do so. (If you can't, then you can't.)
Check for anywhere that boost could be leaking. The "boost pressure implausible" makes me think that there is a leak somewhere, of the blow-off valve (or whatever this system uses to control boost pressure) is not working correctly, or the turbo isn't spooling up and providing pressure.
Good luck!
6th Gear
Quote:
Thanks
Resetting does nothing if you're still having boost issues, find and fix the problem then worry about resetting the ECU. Your ECU is cutting boost because something is wrong.Originally Posted by 1drummer
Is there a way to reset it to see what happens?Thanks
5th Gear
First you have to have the ability to read BMW specific codes. BMWhat software downloaded into your smartphone is one way of doing this. I had the oil wicking problem that caused all of my problems with the half engine symbol. Oil wicks into the wire harness and causes this to happen. It could be a bad sensor. But something is triggering the DME to do this. You just have to find out what it is. Could be a lot of things.
1st Gear
I was just wondering if there was a way I could reset it one time to see if it self corrected after I refilled with possible faulty gas. Then if I get another fault, I will take it in for service which is five hours away from where I am at the moment. I was on a trip when it faulted out.
I tried disconnecting the battery for a couple of hours, but that didn't work, it let me know it was still there before I started it after re-connecting the battery.
So is there a way to reset it?
Thanks
I tried disconnecting the battery for a couple of hours, but that didn't work, it let me know it was still there before I started it after re-connecting the battery.
So is there a way to reset it?
Thanks
6th Gear
Quote:
I tried disconnecting the battery for a couple of hours, but that didn't work, it let me know it was still there before I started it after re-connecting the battery.
So is there a way to reset it?
Thanks
Resetting it will do nothing, you'll still have something going on and a reset won't change that fact. I would not recommend driving your MCS for any amount of time, especially a few hours to the dealer. I don't know of any way to reset the ECU, remove a code from memory yes.Originally Posted by 1drummer
I was just wondering if there was a way I could reset it one time to see if it self corrected after I refilled with possible faulty gas. Then if I get another fault, I will take it in for service which is five hours away from where I am at the moment. I was on a trip when it faulted out.I tried disconnecting the battery for a couple of hours, but that didn't work, it let me know it was still there before I started it after re-connecting the battery.
So is there a way to reset it?
Thanks
1st Gear
ok, I am quite some distance from a dealer, it says reduced power and drive carefully, it doesn't say I shouldn't drive it in for service.... Kind of nervous now....
Thanks
Thanks
6th Gear
Quote:
Thanks
If your ECU is cutting power to the engine there's a good reason why it would do that, to prevent damage to the engine. It's up to you if you want to risk it, running your engine during the few hours it takes to get to the Mini dealer lots of things could happen, you could make thing worse than they already are. Originally Posted by 1drummer
ok, I am quite some distance from a dealer, it says reduced power and drive carefully, it doesn't say I shouldn't drive it in for service.... Kind of nervous now....Thanks
I'm sure when the manual says drive carefully, it doesn't mean drive your Mini for few hours either, the manual must be assuming that you live near a Mini dealer. I would use my AAA free 200 mile towing feature. Follow your gut on this one.