R56 2007 S reliability
2007 S reliability
Hi, I always want to get a MINI S,
now I found one 2007 S, with 25k miles, Navi, auto. $15000.
I will drive the car to work everyday 100 miles.
is it a good choice? I heard that the 2007 S has some issues while the mileage build up. If I'm going to buy the car, where should I look at it?
If I want headaches free, besides 2007 S,, what else mini I should search for? the regular hardtop/other years?
Thanks
now I found one 2007 S, with 25k miles, Navi, auto. $15000.
I will drive the car to work everyday 100 miles.
is it a good choice? I heard that the 2007 S has some issues while the mileage build up. If I'm going to buy the car, where should I look at it?
If I want headaches free, besides 2007 S,, what else mini I should search for? the regular hardtop/other years?
Thanks
If i were you, i would never buy a MINI for such high mileage needs. From what i hear on this forum, all R56's are unreliable so if you must get a Mini, get a low mileage R53....
Last edited by Husam Hammadi; Dec 27, 2013 at 12:56 PM.

While, yes, 2007 was the first year, and has problems..;
T-stat housing/T-stat. (leak)
Turbo Oil Lines (leak)
Timing Chain Guides/Tensioner. (Covered under current recall)
Vacuum Pump Failure for brakes.
Oil Leaks.
Clutch Issues.
Overly long oil change intervals.
Carbon Buildup.
If you buy it.. knowing ahead of those issues.. we are well covered. Lots of OTHER stuff does not break. Just have a good look and listen to it. Check records, car fax etc.. its like any other car.. all cars have issues. Its a turbo, n14 DI car.
They stopped making the R53 in 2006. Good luck finding one with "low miles" unless the person never drove it.
Hi, I always want to get a MINI S, now I found one 2007 S, with 25k miles, Navi, auto. $15000. I will drive the car to work everyday 100 miles. is it a good choice? I heard that the 2007 S has some issues while the mileage build up. If I'm going to buy the car, where should I look at it? If I want headaches free, besides 2007 S,, what else mini I should search for? the regular hardtop/other years? Thanks
The "Justa Cooper" (without turbo) has been more reliable than the S. For that reason, if you want a MINI, I'd recommend a "Justa." A Honda or Toyota with similar mileage would likely be a more reliable 100-mile-per-day commuter, but not nearly so much fun to drive.
The turbo engine was redesigned for 2011, so if you want an S, you might search for a 2011 - 2013 hardtop. My 2011 MCSm has been great; however, I bought it new and have only about 22,000 miles on it, changing oil twice a year.
If you give the VIN to a MINI dealership, they can check the service record of the car, and let you know if common major warranty fixes -- like the timing chain tensioner and turbo cooler -- have been done, and if oil changes were done more frequently than the ridiculous MINI-recommended ones.
The turbo engine was redesigned for 2011, so if you want an S, you might search for a 2011 - 2013 hardtop. My 2011 MCSm has been great; however, I bought it new and have only about 22,000 miles on it, changing oil twice a year.
If you give the VIN to a MINI dealership, they can check the service record of the car, and let you know if common major warranty fixes -- like the timing chain tensioner and turbo cooler -- have been done, and if oil changes were done more frequently than the ridiculous MINI-recommended ones.
Last edited by oldsbear; Dec 22, 2013 at 01:32 PM.
i would never buy a MINI for such high mileage.
I first read this as most of you did - that 25k was high miles for a 2007
BUT on re-read
I think the warning was about buying a 2007 and putting on 100+ miles a day . . . .
I recently sold my 7 with 50,000 miles and that was considered LOW . . . less that 10,000 a year . . .
I first read this as most of you did - that 25k was high miles for a 2007
BUT on re-read
I think the warning was about buying a 2007 and putting on 100+ miles a day . . . .
I recently sold my 7 with 50,000 miles and that was considered LOW . . . less that 10,000 a year . . .
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Treat them right, they'll last.
Nik
Haha! Thats a good one. There is a lady near me that has an 07 with over 400,000 miles on it. Has been back to the dealer once for a turbo replacement. She drives close to 270 miles a day. Hers makes my 03 with over 320,000 miles look like a sissy.
Treat them right, they'll last. Nik
Treat them right, they'll last. Nik
A few comments, similar to the others:
Make sure that maintenance has been done before buying it: Water pump/thermostat leaks, timing chain/tensioner, oil leaks at oil cooler and turbo oil lines, battery replacement is probably due also. I would also have the car checked for carbon cleaning.
Many of the mechanical issues are due to long oil change intervals. If this car had yearly oil changes, then I would not be too scared.
$15k sounds pretty steep, even if the car is beautiful. I would think $11k-12k would be more in line for a 6 year old car.
Definately take the VIN to the dealer to check maintenance history before making a decision. If you have to pay to have work done on the car, it is easy to spend $$$$ on some of these fixes.
Have fun,
Mike
Make sure that maintenance has been done before buying it: Water pump/thermostat leaks, timing chain/tensioner, oil leaks at oil cooler and turbo oil lines, battery replacement is probably due also. I would also have the car checked for carbon cleaning.
Many of the mechanical issues are due to long oil change intervals. If this car had yearly oil changes, then I would not be too scared.
$15k sounds pretty steep, even if the car is beautiful. I would think $11k-12k would be more in line for a 6 year old car.
Definately take the VIN to the dealer to check maintenance history before making a decision. If you have to pay to have work done on the car, it is easy to spend $$$$ on some of these fixes.
Have fun,
Mike
2009 JCW here. 37000 miles. Oil changed every 5000 miles. Clutch replaced under warranty at 28000 miles. That was a JCW clutch issue. Just had the timing chain and tensioner replaced under warranty. Those were the 2 biggest issues.
Many people report that these cars burn oil. In 5 years, I believe that I have added 2 quarts of oil independent of an oil change.
I am on my 3rd windshield. In my 25 years of driving I have never had to replace a windshield on a car. Let alone twice. This was covered under my insurance so a zero dollar repair to me.
Lots of issues with the sunroof rattling. Just had that fixed again. This time I split it 3 ways. MINI paid 1/3. Dealer paid 1/3. And I paid 1/3. Out of pocket $515. And I think I got away cheap.
I would NEVER buy ANY used European cars. They are expensive to repair and the parts to repair them are expensive.
And then you have the NAM peer pressure with mods. That is a whole other story.
If I needed a 100 mile a day commuter car. I would buy a new Hyundai, Kia, Toyota or Honda.
Many people report that these cars burn oil. In 5 years, I believe that I have added 2 quarts of oil independent of an oil change.
I am on my 3rd windshield. In my 25 years of driving I have never had to replace a windshield on a car. Let alone twice. This was covered under my insurance so a zero dollar repair to me.
Lots of issues with the sunroof rattling. Just had that fixed again. This time I split it 3 ways. MINI paid 1/3. Dealer paid 1/3. And I paid 1/3. Out of pocket $515. And I think I got away cheap.
I would NEVER buy ANY used European cars. They are expensive to repair and the parts to repair them are expensive.
And then you have the NAM peer pressure with mods. That is a whole other story.
If I needed a 100 mile a day commuter car. I would buy a new Hyundai, Kia, Toyota or Honda.
I have a 2007 MCS with 65K on it. It has been well maintained with bi-yearly oil changes and all other recomeneded mantenance. Non routine maintenance problems I have encountered:
- Timing Chain - Warranty
- After Run Cooling pump - recall
- High Pressure Fuel Pump - Warranty
- Turbo Oil Lines Leak - Replaced myself - $150
- Valve Cover PCV/Turbo Failed/Intercooler/intake system cleaning $3K
- Clutch - $2.5K
- Thermostat Housing - $300
- Water Pump - $350
Last edited by dmyer; Dec 31, 2013 at 07:57 AM.
i bought my 07 MCS used last year with 48k on the clock, its now got 67k on the clock. in the last 6 months i have only been telecommuting, so that give you an idea of how quickly the miles accumulated. and those miles were blasting across LA twice a week, not exactly nice country 2-lanes..
i can see where if you're not handy, these cars can be expensive to keep running (really, no worse than anything else though). but this thing has been very reliable for a used car, and compared to the truck i WAS driving, the cheaper insurance and fuel expense has easily offset the maintenance.
but seriously?
sun-roof rattle = fixed in 20 minutes with a T-30 torx and a credit card
thermostat stuck full open = $200 total in parts, half a day of my time, and a good opportunity to change the coolant (had just bought the car, so of course i changed all the fluids).
1 lower ball joint started clunking, first time i've paid a shop to work on it. so i had both control arms, ball joints, and both bushings replaced, as well as the turbo oil cooler feed hose replaced, and an alignment done for $1600 out the door. i'm perfectly happy with ball joints lasting 65k on so-cal roads, i sell jeep and dodge parts, those guys are happy when they get 30k miles out of a set of ball joints.
other than that stuff, just basic oil and filter changes, and i'm due for plugs which should cure the slight detonation i get when its cold. if you drive it like a performance car and change the oil every 3-5k mi you shouldn't be getting carbon buildup.
would i drive one of these cars 100 mi every day? i dunno, i'm planning on keeping mine for a long time. if you're gonna make a commute like that, you probably should just buy a kia and throw it away after 5 years, since in 5 years no one will want one. your chances of getting creamed by some idiot teenager speeding while texting are pretty high these days, may as well sacrifice a Kia over a Cooper S...
i can see where if you're not handy, these cars can be expensive to keep running (really, no worse than anything else though). but this thing has been very reliable for a used car, and compared to the truck i WAS driving, the cheaper insurance and fuel expense has easily offset the maintenance.
but seriously?
sun-roof rattle = fixed in 20 minutes with a T-30 torx and a credit card
thermostat stuck full open = $200 total in parts, half a day of my time, and a good opportunity to change the coolant (had just bought the car, so of course i changed all the fluids).
1 lower ball joint started clunking, first time i've paid a shop to work on it. so i had both control arms, ball joints, and both bushings replaced, as well as the turbo oil cooler feed hose replaced, and an alignment done for $1600 out the door. i'm perfectly happy with ball joints lasting 65k on so-cal roads, i sell jeep and dodge parts, those guys are happy when they get 30k miles out of a set of ball joints.
other than that stuff, just basic oil and filter changes, and i'm due for plugs which should cure the slight detonation i get when its cold. if you drive it like a performance car and change the oil every 3-5k mi you shouldn't be getting carbon buildup.
would i drive one of these cars 100 mi every day? i dunno, i'm planning on keeping mine for a long time. if you're gonna make a commute like that, you probably should just buy a kia and throw it away after 5 years, since in 5 years no one will want one. your chances of getting creamed by some idiot teenager speeding while texting are pretty high these days, may as well sacrifice a Kia over a Cooper S...
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 43
Likes: 1
64k miles & almost no issues
My only repairs were 20km timing chain tensioner (warranty), 60km clutch ($2,000), & footwell module (FWM, also known as LKM or LCM - $600). No other failures.
I self-perform maintenance including brake pads & rotors, brake bleeds, oil changes, air & gas filter changes, sparkplugs, transmission fluid, serpentine belt. Replaced battery after 5 years - no indications that original battery was failing.
Overall no complaints but I think DIY has been critical in terms of cost control.
I self-perform maintenance including brake pads & rotors, brake bleeds, oil changes, air & gas filter changes, sparkplugs, transmission fluid, serpentine belt. Replaced battery after 5 years - no indications that original battery was failing.
Overall no complaints but I think DIY has been critical in terms of cost control.
Haha! Thats a good one. There is a lady near me that has an 07 with over 400,000 miles on it. Has been back to the dealer once for a turbo replacement. She drives close to 270 miles a day. Hers makes my 03 with over 320,000 miles look like a sissy.
Treat them right, they'll last. Nik
Treat them right, they'll last. Nik
Even some of the most enthusiastic fans of MINI fidget nervously when the topic of reliability comes up. It isn't easy to find owners who will recommend a MINI for being solidly reliable. But they might recommend it for other reasons. You have to compromise between the car you want to drive and the risk of unreliability.

My 03 is pretty modded and just turned 321,000

Stop waiting till spring, install that pulley already!
Nik
I have a 07 MCS with 60000 miles and she runs and drives just fine. a lot of people say bad things about the 07 and 08 MCS because they were the first years of the 2nd gen. I disagree though. just take care of her and she will run for a long time. you got to remeber when on these forums your going to hear more bad then good. just the nature of it. A 07 with 25000 miles is a good find!




