Hey,

I recently bought a Mini Cooper 2007 with 140,000 Miles on it. The car looks clean and we got it for a very good price and we paid cash 7K.

It was meant as a commuter car for my wife. However, I end up driving it more for the joy of it!!

I've run it for 500 miles and haven't noticed anything wrong with it. It drives really really well. It gives me awesome driving pleasure comparing to getting a Honda or Toyota.

I'm taking it in for an inspection at a dealership on Friday.

Friends keep telling me it has too much milage and that the transmission or engine will glitch out soon.

What do you guys think? Should we get into something else quick? Or are these minis known to run for a while? (I don't know much about the mechanical maintenance history, other than the car is very pristine inside and outside.)

We were planning to keep it for a year and 30k miles or so.. and then get a brand new mini.

Please chime in!

 

You just bought it, so now isn't the time to be 2nd-guessing its reliability. No, these cars do not have good reliability records, especially the S models. But that doesn't mean that with good care and attention to issues they can't be reasonably reliable. You do have to stay after things, perform routine maintenance, and be ready to spend some serious coin when problems happen though. You want to get on a first-name basis with a good independent mechanic; maintaining a 140K Mini at the dealer is just not economical. If you're not comfortable with this, then you're likely to be disappointed. But then again, no car with 140K, especially a small car, is likely to be trouble-free.

You should be nervous as hell if you bought the car without any mechanic's inspection and with no service records. This is skating on very thin ice. You may be in for a shock after the inspection, but as I said earlier, dealers just aren't a very good way to maintain a high-mileage car like this as their repair costs are outrageous. Something like a broken door lock or a minor oil leak will be quoted as a four-figure repair.

It's one of those "if you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen" sort of deals. These are great cars, but they do usually require more owner involvement than a typical Honda or Toyota. These are cars that respond poorly to owners who just push the right pedal until they won't go anymore.

- Mark

 

^This guy nailed it.

 

also being said, im not sure the life of the turbo, but basic mods should be able to get more life out of the cooper S, you definently need a catch can so the valves dont get covered in crap. also need to keep a keen ear on the cam chain, if there are no services records there is no way to tell if that has been replaced, they were ticking time bombs. if you are good with a wrench and are willing to do somethings your self, the car should last you a decent amount of time, some of the 1st gens are going into 300K+ miles. there are big turbo kits, incase the stocker turbo decides to fail, but as long as you dont beat on the turbo before it warms up and keep the oil levels properly maintained, it should last

 

If it is running fine, no need to get out of it. Very few 2nd gens are going to have much more mileage, so hard to say what the long-term, high mileage reliability will be like.

 

Here are the known issues with the MINI. Hopefully you have documentation that these repairs were made before buying.

• timing chain system should have been fixed at least once
• At 140,000 miles, you should have had the turbo oil supply line fixed once. The fitting seals fail due to thermal fatique over the long term.
• Thermostat is a known problem on these cars. They usually leak over the long term.
• You should have had the carbon buildup cleaned from the intake ports at least once.
• Auxiliary water pump should have been replaced under warranty. MINI had a recall campaign for this part.
• The oil pan gasket is probably leaking if it has never been replaced
• The oil cooler module seals are probably on there way out. This is another place where leaks start to occur.
• I would replace the vacuum pump. They are known to fail and cause catastrophic engine damage when the oil level is frequently run at a low level. It's a relatively cheap part compared to a $7000 engine.
• Take the valve cover off and look at the condition of the cam lobes. This is an easy way to tell how well the owner took care of the engine and the oil change intervals he stuck too.
• If the car still has the original clutch, it's probably going to be needing replacement in the short term. That's a lot of miles for an original clutch. If this needs replacement, the flywheel usually needs to be replaced too. The flywheel is almost $900 from what I remember. Not cheap, especially the labor involved to change it. 10 hours at least.
• Front control arm bushings are shot if they've never been replaced. The stock ones are practically made of jelly.

The only other thing I would advise is to get a compression and leak down test performed on it. That will tell you the condition of the engine very easily... but then again.. you already bought the car If the engine even has marginal results from those tests I would get rid of it immediately.

I just don't have a good feeling about this if you don't have all the documentation. Seven grand is a lot of money for a car that has 140,000 miles.

 

Look at the picture people. It is a non-S so not the same kinds of issues with the carbon, timing chain, turbo lines, etc. I would say look for obvious leaks, keep an eye on coolant, check bushings and other "consumable" parts. I think the price is a little high myself but hey you bought it, drive it, care for it, enjoy it and don't lose sleep over all the negative things we talk about here on the forums.

 

Totally missed it was a naturally aspirated MINI *facepalm*

 

If the car is going to be traded in in a year, I'd just drive it. Do any required routine maintenance needed (particularly fluid changes) and pay attention to any problems that develop during the year, but going through the car now looking for all the potential issues and fixing them all in a 140K+ mile car is just asking for a huge repair bill that might be a significant fraction of the total value of the car. If you don't fix stuff that is flagged, it's going to be in the service records that the car has problems which will dealer will use against you at trade-in. Looking for problems now is something you do if you're keeping the car for awhile and can get some value out of getting the car completely up to snuff, but for a car that is going to be traded at a dealer in a year, let the sleeping dog lie.

I'd even advise against taking it to the dealer for an inspection. The time to do this was before the sale, not after. They'll find tons of problems, many of which will be marginal stuff that really don't need to be fixed and their inspection will be in the car's records. I'd spend the money instead on just doing any routine maintenance for things that might have been deferred, like fluid changes. And use a good independent mechanic who knows Minis.

- Mark

 

These are all great advices thank you. I'm compiling a list of things to check.

Fortunately I have a friend that works out of his garage as a mechanic that used to fix the old BMW I had. I normally buy parts online and have him fix it.

You're right, it was not a smart buy and I will cross my finger for the dealership inspection. I did notice the coolant was low! I also noticed the car kept running a few minutes after I turned it off. (happened a couple of times)

It's an automatic and not the S model.

All in all.. if it all breaks down.. I'll take it as a loss.. I would never been introduced to the Mini world if I hadn't bought this car. (it happen by an 'accident', we were stuck in Sacramento trying to get back to San Francisco @ 8 PM)

I totally fell i love with the Mini. It's roomy, functional and fun to drive. Great gas milage for the power it has. Its pretty darn amazing! The next one will be a Countryman for when I go skiing in Tahoe!

I was planning to retrofit the headlights with HID's and all that. But, after reading the advice from you guys, I'll keep the expenses low and only do the necessary repairs for the year I'll keep it.

I'll update this post on Friday after inspection and lets see what I should fix.

 

The car running is the fan to col the car off when necessary, totally normal. Check out TRS for all your retrofit needs (mini H1 will work pretty easily I think, I did the D2S).

 

On an older car...avoid the dealership...
They will look at it...
Find $2000-3000 in stuff that "must be done now!!" Then tell you to get ready for a tranny or clutch issue....and then say.." For that amount or less as a down payment, we can get you in a NEW CAR, with a full warrenty, and to avoid these future expenses, we have extended warranties and prepaid mantaince plans.....wouldn't you rather have that at xxx$ per month?!".
And in your first post you said you desired a "new" mini in the future...the salespeople know the look......
Not saying all dealers suck....but there are enough around to make me worry.....

 

P.S.
While a mini is no Toyota/Honda , especially with higher miles, the non S is pretty good...my one tip...check your oil regularly...some mini's, non S's included, can burn oil, but otherwise be perfectly fine....
A high mile car shows (hopefully) your car has been a good one...driven lots and presumably loved...enjoy!!

 

I have 120,000 miles on my Cooper and it's been pretty good-just the thermostat housing. However, it does use oil-a quart in about 1,500 miles, so that's something to watch (there's no low oil light).

 

I recently sold my 2007 mcs due to too much maintenance. It had 82k miles. I was on the 2nd clutch, 3rd timing chain/tensioner. Terrified the turbo was next after the final 6k service. Should have researched the 7's more since it was a first year. Just bought a 2013 countryman s and have to say i absolutely love it. Couldn't find any other car i liked when I was looking for a replacement for my beloved Vinnie. Guess I'm a sucker for mini...

 

Hey Guys,

I took it to the dealership.. and this is what they told me to do: (also attached the report)

• Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
• Oil Leak repair
• Automatic Transmission pan gasket replacement
• Replace Transmission Pan
• Replace Oil Pan Gasket
• Replace Oil Filter Housing Gaskets
• Tires and windshields wipers

A whooping total of $3,494

I will see my mechanic in December. Can these things wait?

Asked them about the time-chain and they said that this was only a problem on the S. They also said all the recalls are for the S.

Is there any other things I should ask my mechanic to do while I'm on it?

Thanks guys,

 

$3500....
Let you mechanic look at it....
Most leaks are ok as long as they are slow enough that you can keep the fluids in OK....
Having a higher mile car is like er triage....
You tackle the most dangerous stuff first....
Some items might be long term headaches....but can be safely monitored....
Non dealers that work on mini's can often get the OEM parts at a 25% discount...and the hourly rate is often about 50% less.....
So a good mini centric shop might be able to do a few items, keep an eye on a few, let you safely drive for a year or more....
Remember...dealer deal in new cars and warrenty repairs... Cost is not a concern for them.
Acnon dealer knows it is your dime, and knows the standards a USED car is held to is not the same as a showroom new car.....
A oil weep might be OK out of warrenty.....buy why not fix it under warrenty...get where I am going...
And tires and brakes are pretty standard....any decent place are fine for those....
Like I said....
I dealer will make any out of warrenty car look $$$ to own...
But they forget deppreciation .....but their job is sell/matain NEW!!

 

Good points..

It was almost the same issues with my old BMW. $3500 from the dealer and I had it fixed for $500. And it run for 3 years after that before I sold it. It had 170,000 miles.

I'll get my friend take care of all these issues plus some of the things suggested here in the Forum. Hopefully, that will make it run trouble free for another year!

 

Just to put in my $0.02...I'll answer the DIY costs of some of those things, so you have an idea. I'm driving a 2008 R55 (Clubman S). I know you drive a non-S model, but I've included some S-specific repairs just to give a general idea of what to expect. Keep in mind that my labor costs are 0, (I am an aircraft mechanic, finishing my engineering degree...and therefore meticulous about upkeep & repairs), with the unique exception of the water pump. Incorrectly assumed the extended warranty from the previous owner would cover it, and I was far from home - had to bite that bullet ONCE

• Valve Cover Gasket: $37, < 1hr of labor
• Oil Pan Gasket: $35, < 3 hrs of labor
• Oil Filter Housing Assembly Gaskets: $40, > 5-6 hours. Simple task, but I removed my turbocharger, and placed the car into "service position", and that was highly time-consuming.
• Turbo Oil line kit: $100, > 5-6 hrs. Preemptively replaced this with the aforementioned oil filter housing gaskets as a preventative measure.
• Bridgestone Potenza RE760 tires: ~ $110 installed (each), by Pierre's Place, a local independent BMW/MINI specialist.
• Water Pump Assembly & Expansion tank: $638.35 parts & labor, > 10 hrs @ MINI of Wesley Chapel (got the Bentley manual afterward, lesson learned!)
• Vacuum pump, tank, lines, & Thermostat Kit: > $380, maybe 4-6 hours (work in progress). The thermostat tends to leak around the 85k mark according to these forums, so...

This may seem like a chunk of change, but I bought the car with 53k, and it's now pushing 82k...but the costs have all come around the same time. It was trouble-free before that, and in general. I drive it fairly hard, and commute > 50 miles for school.

Mind the regular maintenance, keep an expert technician on-call, and these cars are great. Get lazy or penny-pinching with the basics, and you'll pay accordingly...like everyone else here says. The cars are not drive-and-forget machines (none are), and for the most part, the horror stories on here are due to special exceptions (as is rare) or negligence or incompetence (as is common).

Enjoy the car!

 

Was the vacuum pump a PM replacement or did it show signs of failure?

 

The vacuum pump was on the verge of failure...it was seeping more oil than drawing air. What I thought was an oil leak on the back of the engine turned out to be symptomatic of a pump on its way out, thankfully. The engine is significantly quieter now, one of those noises you don't notice until it's gone. Brake feel is much improved, and the turbo is fully operational again. Had to have a few codes cleared at the independent MINI shop in order to get rid of the "full power unavailable" failsafe, but otherwise a straightforward repair.

Do not pay $450 for the pump from MINI. ECS Tuning sells the exact same Pierburg pump as an OEM component for $225. It's two small bolts, a small bracket, and a bit of common-sense alignment with the camshaft nook when you install it. No torque specs.

 

Don't be scared by the dealer estimates for service/repair. They have a big building with a nice showroom and lots of shiny new vehicles on the lot that they have to pay for. They pay for all this stuff by charging you a fortune to fix your vehicle.

Just a short story to illustrate my dealer-cost-for-service point: My son's car (NOT a MINI) recently broke down about 60 miles from home, right next to a Ford dealer. He pulled it in there and asked for an estimate to fix it, since he was already there. Their estimate: about $600 plus tax to replace the water pump and a belt. No thanks!

After having it towed home, he went to Autozone and bought a new pump ($50) and belt ($20). He replaced the pump himself in the driveway (with me as supervisor and master tech to "sign off" on his work). Took a couple of hours, total cost: $100 for the tow, $50 for the pump, $20 for the belt = $170.00. He saved around $500 over having the Ford dealer do it.

Take it to your own mechanic. That list of "required" fixes you posted looks pretty minor to me. Small oil leaks are normal on any car with 140,000 miles on it. Monitor your oil level carefully, check for spots of oil under the car and just leave it be. Serious oil leaks need attention, and unless it's leaking out enough to leave a stain on the driveway I would leave it alone.

New tires can be ordered from Tire Rack or a similar online retailer for a fraction of what they'd cost at a dealer. Just get some regular tires - don't bother with the "wider-lower-stiffer-expensive" option for a commuter car and you'll be a happy MINI owner.

TL;DR version - - Get your own mechanic to do work on the car. Don't expect perfection - you'll pay a lot to chase down every little thing. Make sure it's safe, runs well and won't leave you stranded somewhere, and just drive the hell out of it.

ps... my '08 (non-S) MINI has about 70,000 trouble-free miles on it so far. Still drives like a much newer car. They can be reliable things, especially the base non-S versions.

 

I remember my 1980 Datsun 200SX had an oil pan leak for over ten years, I drove that car from 86k-140k and leak never progressed. It didn't lose enough oil to warrant having to lift the engine using a crane just to replace an oil pan gasket, but I kept a close eye on it the entire time I owned it. It didn't even lose enough oil to even consider adding oil at anytime in-between oil changes. Changing the water pump on a MCS 07-13 involves lifting the engine up about an inch to be able to change out the water pump, same situation many years later.

 

Both my dealer and an independent Mini specialist have recommend I spend $1100+ to have my oil pan gasket replaced despite the fact my garage floor is bone dry and I have no discernible oil loss between changes. You've got to have a firm hold on your wallet and use some common sense with mechanics - they're trying to put their kids through college and make a boat payment just like you.

- Mark

 

I replaced the oil pan gasket on my 2008 Clubman S, and paid literally $42.75 for a German-made gasket. I didn't have to remove any part of the exhaust, and only needed a 1/4" U-joint, socket (10mm I believe), brake parts cleaner, and a gasket scraper to do the job. It's a super-simple task, and $1100 quote for that task is a complete insult and a crime. The factory presumably used silicone, but the Bentley manual stipulated a metal-substrate gasket. Worked perfectly. I'm putting myself through college, so the mechanic's kids can kick rocks!

This is the data from my Pelican Parts receipt:

11-13-7-565-928-M30 $42.75 1 $42.75
Oil Pan Gasket Brand: Elring Klinger, Cooper S / Coop.S JCW (2008-09)
with N14 Engine (R55), Brand: Elring Klinger