I've got a few jugs of Rotella 5w40 on my shelf from my last motorcycle. Many of you use it in your Mini?

 

New Rotella T6 is 5-40 full syn and has a full temp operation range like most modern synthetic, unlike the old dino. Enjoy

 

that doesn't change it's thicker viscosity at lower temps (W40 rather than W30). It will be slower to get the places it needs to go. I'm curious how that would affect things over time, Especially with an oil pressure dependent timing tensioner.

 

I would not run a 30w.... Between shear from fuel and break down from heat, you will have a 20w under 5k miles...this is the number one reason Rotella T6 is so popular with DI turbo engines.

 

You will maintain a higher overall oil pressure with a 40w as well..

 

correct! T6 5-40 rotella is sweet stuff for turbo vehicles, the subaru crew swear by it, and those vehicles specify 5w-30 as well. if you run the car full throttle at times or have performance parts, 5-40 all the way.

Some have said that since T6 is designed for diesel trucks that the use in gasoline catted vehicles can cause some sort of build up in the cat itself. not sure if this is true or if there's been any actually cat plugging issues yet.

 

Amsoil 0w30 has a lot of ZDDP and has great film strength, really good for turbo motors especially.

For my '06 evo I run Amzoil ZROD 10w30 - has even more ZDDP, and operating temp viscosity is just in between a 30 and 40 oil - I'd use anything in this "outstanding protection" category this guy tested (http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...1d4896#p378825) - scroll down. TLDR:

And no one can complain that my test equipment and test procedure do not allow high zinc oils to perform at their highest level. Because here are some high zinc (over 1100 ppm) conventional, semi-synthetic, and full synthetic oils that I’ve tested previously. They all had test results over 90,000 psi, which put them in the “OUTSTANDING PROTECTION” category.


10W30 Lucas Racing Only, full synthetic = 106,505 psi
zinc = 2642 ppm
phos = 3489 ppm
moly = 1764 ppm


10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi
zinc = 1669 ppm
phos = 1518 ppm
moly = 784 ppm


10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm


10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
zinc = 1180 ppm
phos = 1112 ppm
moly = 162 ppm


30 wt Red Line Race Oil, full synthetic = 96,470 psi
zinc = 2207 ppm
phos = 2052 ppm
moly = 1235 ppm


10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil, full synthetic = 95,360 psi
zinc = 1431 ppm
phos = 1441 ppm
moly = 52 ppm


10W30 Quaker State Defy, API SL (semi-synthetic) = 90,226 psi
zinc = 1221 ppm
phos = 955 ppm
moly = 99 ppm

*not my test, read post for full testing. I'm personally not a fan of running thicker oil, but ZROD hits the sweet spot


AND before this comes up - cold temp 5w40 is actually MORE viscous than 10w30

 

I know this thread is old, but I bought a 2013 mini countryman sall4 and am considering running amsoil. However, amsoil only has 5w40 recommended for my car (through their site) and I was curious if that is safe to use. I have been getting the oil changed at tires plus, but for some reason I dont trust those guys and they claim to be using penzoil synthetic, but I really have no way of being certain since they do the allow you on the shop while they work. I also watched them drop my skid plate off, it was dangling and then just fell off.

 

Best bet is dealer, most of them do a $69.95 oil special, which is hard to beat. Stick with factory OEM.

 

I would recommend liqui moly 5w40, u will notice a difference in the engine sound immediately. The motor will also consume less oil.

 

I used liqui moly, you must have better hearing than me, no real difference so wasn't worth the added cost for me.

 

New MINI bulletin as of 01AUG16 states your 2013 CM is to use 0W-30. Formerly 5w-30.

 

Most engine wear occurs at start up, thicker heavier not better. And that viscosity is too heavy/improper flow rate for this turbo equipped engine equipped with oil feed lines for turbo bearings and micro screen on Solenoid Valves ! Stick with MFG recommended viscosity unless you really enjoy being a test pilot having huge bank account.

 

Is that even for the S model?

 

I used to have Valvoline change my oil for me..you sit in the car while they do it.. fast and convenient. For my Mini, they recommended their 5w40 oil and it was because of the extra additives. They seemed pretty knowledgeable about the BMW oils and said their 5w40 was their only oil that met the standards. I tried it for a few oil changes and noticed no difference...track days, commuting, etc.

 

You can check Bentley book, both 5w30 and 40 are recommended. Anyways, it works for me and others.

 

Mobil 1 0w40 for me, with a MINI Genuine filter every 5k. Cheap and easy, done on jackstands in my garage at home. You will also need a can of brake cleaner, and a couple of rags. I use MAYBE 1/2 quart between changes, and I have been very happy so far at almost 65k. Just my 2 cents.

 

Same here. .

 

2013 JCW using Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w30 every 5k miles. Also use Z-Max in this rotation along with washing the K&N air filter and moving rubber around.


ISAMIN

 

I've read a lot of people using the 0W40, not sure if that would work for the cold winter terse around here or if it would be better because of the turbocharged motors, or if 0W30 would be the best or just stick to the 5W30

 

Mobil 1 0W-40 used to carry the BMW LL-01 certification until last November
when they changed the formulation. None of the other suitable Mobil 1 grades
had the LL-01 formula now or in the past.

I just bought some Amsoil European formula 0W-40 for my next oil change
(product code EFO). It's not officially certified for LL-01 but is designed for
that spec as well as the other A3/B3 spec called for.

 

I just contacted one of the many amsoil dealers around here, he told me that amsoil recommends 5W-40, not sure if that's accurate with as cold as it gets around here....

 

5W40 (EFM) is probably best for the OP in Ft. Myers, FL,
but 0W40 (EFO) is probably a better choice for those of us above
the Mason-Dixon Line. The two have almost the same
100C viscosity (13.6 vs 13.3), but the 5W40 is a bit thicker
at 40C 83.3 vs 74.7), which steers me away. Also, MINI recommends
0W30, 5W30, 0W40, or 5W40 with LL-01 and A3/B3 for a ,
2013 MINI Cooper S, so either should be appropriate.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3395.pdf

 

Yes.

 

What MINI bulletin are you seeing this data on Cristo. Never seen
0W40 or 5W40 recommended, especially for B engines.....