R56 Trunk lid does not open with button on handle AND having closure problems TOO
Trunk lid does not open with button on handle AND having closure problems TOO
Well, I actually have two problems, not sure if they are related.
1st - The button on the trunk lid does not seem to release the trunk hatch any more. Also, the rubber covered button feels quite odd now. I should feel a button or something, but there does not seem to be much resistance. Perhaps something inside came unattached.
2nd - The trunk does open with the trunk button on the keyFob, but the door does not close an hatch. I have to press the trunk button a second time (with the hatch open) to be able to slam the hatch shut.
These both started at the same time, but I don't know if they are related.
1st - The button on the trunk lid does not seem to release the trunk hatch any more. Also, the rubber covered button feels quite odd now. I should feel a button or something, but there does not seem to be much resistance. Perhaps something inside came unattached.
2nd - The trunk does open with the trunk button on the keyFob, but the door does not close an hatch. I have to press the trunk button a second time (with the hatch open) to be able to slam the hatch shut.
These both started at the same time, but I don't know if they are related.
What year car?
2002-2006 (gen1 hardtop), or 2007+ (gen2)?
Guessing it is a gen1 car....
water can sometimes get in behind the handle...there is a foam gasket..it shrinks...then water gets between them, and gets into the switches...bet they corroded. New handle (it is connected with a couple Torix Screws) are available in chrome, or primer, ready for paint. Simplest way to get new switches...it sounds like they are too far gone to try cleaning them...
2002-2006 (gen1 hardtop), or 2007+ (gen2)?
Guessing it is a gen1 car....
water can sometimes get in behind the handle...there is a foam gasket..it shrinks...then water gets between them, and gets into the switches...bet they corroded. New handle (it is connected with a couple Torix Screws) are available in chrome, or primer, ready for paint. Simplest way to get new switches...it sounds like they are too far gone to try cleaning them...
gen2 -- 2008 Cooper S
Also, I wanted to take a look at the inside of the rear trunk lid handle. I undid 4 screw to get that off and disconnected an electrical connection. I am having a tough time separating the exterior overlay to see the 'guts' of the handle.
Also, I wanted to take a look at the inside of the rear trunk lid handle. I undid 4 screw to get that off and disconnected an electrical connection. I am having a tough time separating the exterior overlay to see the 'guts' of the handle.
not sure how similar it is to the gen1...my exp is with my 2005...but it does happen on the earlier cars. ask the mod to move this thread to gen2 with the alert button...more folks will read it there!
Thanks, Joanie. This post has been moved to R56. I will most like buy a new lock to address needing to press the trunk button twice to get to catch again when the door is closed. As for the boot grip assemble, it look like you can buy just the trigger instead of the whole plastic casing and trigger. I would love to be able to peel that thing open and just switch the tiggering part.
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Maybe this is not applicable, bayareamike, but you might need to adjust those rubber bumpers on either side of the trunk hatch, they might be too firm and might be keeping the trunk from closing. Trying to remember.. do you turn them until they screw inward more...? There was a thread on it somewhere. Anyway, if you feel like you have to slam it, it might be because the bumpers need adjusting too. Aside from the catch problem.
Okay, so I just decided to replace the car color matching rear handle assembly with a chrome one (about $100), but it did not work. It was only after I changed the locking mechanism (about $50) itself when the rear handle started working. Replacing the lock also fixed the lock 'sticking' problem where I needed to press the release button two times to get to a place where the door would stay latched close. On a side note, the local dealer quoted more than the price I found at http://parts.miniofsouthatlanta.com (a mini dealer), so I printed out the online pricing and the local dealer matched it. Saved a lot.
Okay, so I just decided to replace the car color matching rear handle assembly with a chrome one (about $100), but it did not work. It was only after I changed the locking mechanism (about $50) itself when the rear handle started working. Replacing the lock also fixed the lock 'sticking' problem where I needed to press the release button two times to get to a place where the door would stay latched close. On a side note, the local dealer quoted more than the price I found at http://parts.miniofsouthatlanta.com (a mini dealer), so I printed out the online pricing and the local dealer matched it. Saved a lot.
How difficult of a process was changing out both the rear handle assembly and the actual lower locking mechanism? This is the next nascence task that I want tackle. Also, when you removed the locking mechanism, did you notice why the original was not working or how it was damaged?
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