Anyone here does his /her maintenance on the R56s ?
i want to know whether its as easy as the ones of the R53s (oil change, filter changes, spark plugs, etc. etc.) ?
Is it true that the R56s are more computer dependent than the R53s ?
Anyone care to chime in on this regards ?

 

Oil change was pretty easy.

Installation of intercooler was tedious, but not hard.

Suspension was pretty easy.

Rear bar was easy.

Torque arm insert was easy.

Way Motor Works bypass valve required a lot of swearing and small hands..lol

Catch can was easy, air filter was easy

Spark plugs look easy.

Installing the Quaife diff was left to a pro. I could have, but didn't want to...

The R56 is more closely monitored, but not any more dependant.

 

i understand the R56s has some issues, more so than the R53s. If so, what issues are these and can these be easily address:

some i know off:

a.) install turbo heat shield so hood scoop wouldn't melt
b.) timing chain issues
c.) anything else....

 

Yes

 

There are several folks who regularly post on this forum that do as least some of the routine maintenance. I do my own oil changes and tire rotation.

 

I did the plugs it was easy.
Owning the bavtech tool is a must (not for spark plugs).
Particuarly for the errant airbag light.
I presume more at time goes on.

 

Plastic thermostat housing

But...... I love my MINI!

 

I do oil change and recently replaced spark plugs. Really easy. You need the right socket for spark plugs though. I bought mine for like $13 on ebay. Filter changes are easy.

Issues - Thermostat replaced at 70K. I have heard water pump is an issue too. If it lasts upto 100K, I will be happy. Other wise not many issues.

 

The reason you get answers like this is that all of what you are asking has been asked and answered MANY MANY MANY times here on the forum and there are rules about searching before starting another thread for the same information.

 

many thanks!!

 

I've done my own oil changes on my Mini. It's not hard, but why-oh-why didn't they design this engine with a vertically mounted screw on filter next to the oil pan instead of that PitA cartridge that you can't avoid making a mess with when you change it?

Changing the spark plugs was quite easy. I bought a set of NGK ILZKBR7A-8G plugs from Amazon and a Schwaben 14mm 12 point magnetic spark plug socket from Sears and set about it. The black plastic gizmo on top of each plug (late models, R56 etc.) is an extractor lever which disconnects the low voltage connector so you can remove the coil assembly and get to the spark plug. The hardest part was pulling out the coil assemblies; I was afraid that I was going to break one because it took a lot of force to remove them. They had been in place for 40K miles and were very well seated, but a little twisting and some hard pulling popped them all loose. Once the coils were removed, it was a simple matter to unscrew the plugs using the socket on a 3/8" ratchet and extension. The old plugs all looked pretty good (tan deposits on the insulator) and a little bit wider gap than the new plugs (which come pre-gapped). I probably could have gotten another 40K out of them by just re-gapping them, but I didn't. The magnetic socket worked like a charm - both for removing the old plugs and installing the new ones. Be sure you start the new plugs into the cylinder head by hand so as to not cross-thread them. DO NOT use the ratchet handle for this! Also, be sure you don't accidentally bang the electrode into the cylinder head while trying to engage the threads or you may change - or even close - the spark plug gap. That would not be good. The plugs should spin in quite easily all the way down to the gasket - especially if you put a little anti-seize on the threads (optional). Then you can torque them snugly. Don't go crazy with a breaker bar here. The spec is 15 to 19 ft./lbs., which doesn't feel like very much. (You can do it by feel if you're experienced, but you ought to have a torque wrench anyway if you work on your own cars.) Push the coils back into place, hook up the wires and you're done!

I must say, this was a LOT easier than changing plugs in most of the cars I've worked on (e.g., early small block V8 Mustangs or a Sunbeam Tiger).

Good luck!

Tom S

 

I've done all my own work so far. You should have the right tools as most have said already.

All maintenance work so far:

Oil changes (and filter of course)
Air filter
Serpentine belt
Spark plugs
Head light bulbs
Tire rotation
Check timing chain tensioner to ensure it's tight

Under the heading of foo-foo:

Mirror covers
Sunroof graphic

Coming:

Pads and rotors (front and rear)
Oil catch can

 

I have a R56, and i'm thinking of doing this. Is this printed, in the owner's manual?

 

Yes if not get a Bentley manual this will save lives

 

So far just done oil/filter change, tire rotation, and cabin filter changes. All seems straight forward and easy to do.

 

I'm fine with doing all the basics myself, as I've done much more than basic service on my MG during the past 17 years, and I don't mind getting greasy. I've changed the oil in my R56 twice now, and it really hasn't needed much else. When it comes to brakes, etc., whether I do it myself or not will depend on how much expense would be involved in taking it to the dealer.

Spridget

 

The last two weekends I installed a Helix FMIC, installed Koni FSD shocks and struts, installed new front brakes and rotors, and NM Engineering Torque Arm Insert.

I did this in my driveway with the car on jack stands. I'm not a car mechanic but can make do with the right tools. But...Helix provides a video on how to install the intercooler, there are a number of how to instructions on this site and other Mini sites on installing the shocks, struts, and brakes. I actually printed out what I thought were the best instructions and followed them as I worked.

Thanks for everyone who helped me along the way and I'll try to pay it forward!

Google the task you are planning to do, and I'm sure you'll find some instructions here and elsewhere!

 

I asked about this at the dealer. They recommend NOT rotating the tires.

I didn't believe them, so I rotated them, front to back only as is recommended for radial tires. They made so much noise I couldn't switch them back fast enough! It turns out that each tire takes a "set" to its position on the car, and if you move it to a different position it not only doesn't track right it will greatly accelerate the wear.

Bottom line: save yourself a lot of hassle and just leave them where they are. Be sure to keep them properly inflated, and when they wear out replace them - preferrably with a good set of NON-runflats. I can't begin to tell you what a huge difference in ride and handling that made - not to mention saving me at least $100 each!

Tom S

 

how are u removing the oil filter? i unscrew it just a little bit to let it ventilate (dont know the right word to use) wait 10 seconds or so and the oil from the filter will drain out through the oil pan plug and then full unscrew it off. minimal mess, whats more messy is the coolant tank that sometimes leaks if twisted the wrong way

 

I can't really argue with this. My tires are quiet after the rotate, but the dealership rotated the tires on my wife's car once (directional Bridgestones or Yokohamas I think) and they went from quiet to sounding like a freight train and were never the same again.

 

why blue? it's really harsh on the eyes to be reading all this in the blue font. please use black.

 

Schatzy62, are you the NAM search monitor? It seems every time there is a question posted I always see your bashing of the poster that you have determined has not done a proper search? Also I did not know until now it was a hard fast rule that no questions can be asked until an exhaustive search was been completed.

Search is good and helpful but really let's try and lighten up a little. There seems to be plenty of nice Mini folks not offended and are glad to provide info.
Just my $ .02 worth.

 

My tires don't make any noise when rotated front to back.

 

My tires don't make any more noise when rotated (I just do front to back). And the wear ends up nice and even. Given the mileage I've gotten out of some of my sets of tires relative to what is posted by others, I'd lean toward the regular rotations (5-6k miles) are definitely not accelerating the wear on the tires.

 

I rotate my directional tires every 3000 miles front to back (change the pressures too). Directional tires can run backwards however the water will not channel out in wet conditions. I think if you rotate diagonally you will upset the bead (newer tires are not as likely to do that). Changing the direction the tire travels can make tires noisy. The blocks have high spots and wear taper that get reversed and then a flapping or humming noise can be noticed.

I do my own oil changes.