can you post another pic? please?!

 

CNT Racing is now making a down pipe with a high flow cat according to the web site. Has anyone purchased it? or have any insight?

 

Price is good, I am curious on the cat quality.

 

I'm wondering why they don't specify the type of steel used. I don't buy parts for my $30,000+ high performance car based on cost alone.

 

$30K high performance car?

I hope you arent referring to your car MINI as so.

Lots of mods and no tune.. whats the hold up?

 

Three things...
1) It was just above $30k
2) An MCS is a high performance car
3) N18 engine/warranty

Mods? I have a VIP Custom Parts downpipe back exhaust and will be ordering an Akrapovic Downpipe in a couple days. After tax time, BC coilovers and H-sport 19in sway bar. Like I said, except for the BC's (which aren't the most expensive but aren't the cheapest) I buy quality, not cheap.

My question stands. What type of steel does CNT use on these cut-rate exhausts?

 

Some of the other parts on the site claim to be made of T304 Stainless. It maybe foolish to assume all of the parts are made of the same material, but the cat back seems to be made of stainless.

 

I have a cnt downpipe on my subaru and its decent quality cat

 

A MINI is far from a high performance car.. if you think it is you obviously havent driven very actual performance cars.

 

Just shut up

 

Regardless of whether the mini is a high performance car or not, I'm trying to figure out what could be bad about the CNT down pipe..... Maybe this isn't the correct place for this question, but what would make one down pipe better than another? If they are made from the same material and have a similar cat (or no cat) I can't see one being much better.... any thoughts?

 

I was wondering the same thing as I came across one. I had one on my 07 Subaru Legacy GT and it worked perfectly and people raved about them on the Subie forums. I had the catless version but still heard good things about the catted version as well. I maybe give it a try just because of my past dealings with them on my Legacy and see how it turns out.

 

Can anyone post a photo of the exhaust showing the full rear of the car? Im wondering if 4" tips are going to look really funny on the car.

Thanks!

 

Theres a few pics of it install in a different thread on here.

Found it!

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ck-ehaust.html

 

Here is a link of some pics I posted:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...post12225.html

 

Just Installed:

http://s299.photobucket.com/user/rox..._0519.mp4.html

 

Mine just came in yesterday. I am looking forward to installing it. Have to wait until I get my recall work done first.

 

I put mine on Friday and tweaked it in on Sat. So far, I'm very happy with it. Eventually, I think I would like to weld it. I ditched the clamps it came with for the $3 auto parts store u-bolts.

When you install it, push the center pipe all the way back. That will give you clearance over the cross brace.

 

Reviving this from the dead since it helped me with my decision to buy the exhaust - hopefully this will help somebody down the line.

I got the exhaust from MAPerformance for ~$332 shipped with their coupon code. Imo, it's EXTREMELY decent for the price, though my personal mindset is that it's just a buncha SS tubes so I can't imagine that an exhaust 2-3x the cost would yield the same difference in quality. However, I do live in a non-snow area so take that with a grain of salt.

Issues:

• I couldn't seem to get it to fit without making contact with the chassis brace plate no matter how much I shifted around the pipes. I ended up removing the plate altogether. Not ideal, but works.
• My exhaust tips were making contact with the bumper, though I seem to be the only one. I noticed scuffing on the blue tips, so I ordered some longer exhaust hangars off Amazon for more clearance for about $15. Now there's about ~2cm between the tips and the bumper.
• The cheapo U-clamps from Oreilly worked out terribly for me. I would highly advise against using them.
  • The slip on joints really require a clamp with some width. It's kind of hard to explain but the U clamps would put pressure on a single point and bend the outer pipe resulting in a small exhaust leak
  • The real problem is how the U-Joints have the threaded tips of the "U" jut out. There's only so many ways you can really rotate the clamp and still tighten everything down, so inevitably, you'll probably have some part of the clamp below the exhaust tubing. I'm in an underground parking garage, and as you're exiting, there's an area that's like a crest of a small hill. So imagine the car on top of a small dome with the rounded area rising up toward the middle of the car. One of the threaded tips caught the concrete in just the right way where it literally pulled the exhaust completely off the car. Literally, as in I didn't need any tools or jack access to physically pick up the exhaust, and carry it back to my personal garage space during my walk of shame. The exhaust metal hangars were bent back and had to be replaced (broke when trying to hammer them back in place), the rubber mounts were ripped, but luckily, due to the nature of the slip on joint, there was no real damage to anything else.
  • Use the clamps that it came with, they work with minimal extra effort. I read about how other people have had them fall off so I went to Oreilly, bought some extra nuts, and used those to lock in the single nut that it came with by tightening them against each other. No issues since then.

 

You can stack washers or a spacer between the muffler bracket and the body to gain a little more clearance.