MINI of Alexandria wants to charge me 650 for from rotors and pad replacement. Am I cheap of does this seem crazy expensive??

 

Sounds crazy expensive to me. Then again, I'm at only 7K miles and not in need of brakes yet. I am thinking of upgrading with Wilwood's when that time comes for me. Pep Boys just put pads and rotors on my daughters 98 Civic for less than $250.

 

buy the parts online do the install on your own and save about $200

 

This is probably 1 month old (from a Local dealer), but even $650 from yours seems way too much.

 

Seems crazy expensive to me, but I think the parts are kind of spendy.

Perhaps you can try giving Scandinavian Import Service Center in Rockville a call and see what they'll charge. They used to only specialize in Saab and Volvo, but recently (with in a year or two, IIRC) started selling and servicing MINI, in addition to the other two brands. They were honest, stand up folks with me. For the record, I don't work for them, or have any other dealings with them. I just bought my car from them (that's actually my car on their site haha)

 

$193 for an oil and filter change? (Yes, I see it also includes cabin air filter - big deal). Yikes!

 

If you're in the DC area - why else would you be visiting Mini of Alexandria - why not join DCMetroMinis.Org; we are having a DIY this Saturday out in Manassas. Do it yourself for the cost of the parts.

 

I really should join DC Metro MINIs
>.>
<.<

 

I already gave them the go ahead. Lesson learned. Join dc metro minis and diy

 

Mini of Annapolis wanted 680.00 for the front brakes. It really is way too much. I bought pads and a sensor from Rock Auto for 60.00 (including shipping) and did it myself.

It didn't even need rotors, but I don't think a dealer will replace pads only.

 

I always replace the rotors and pads together. That said $650 is OUTRAGEOUS.

Any corner garage can do the brakes in an hour as they are no different than any other car. I think that the Hawk HPS Pads and Brembo rotors I put on Artoo were no more than $300 for the parts. Rock Auto sells pads and rotors for $200. Even the OEM parts are only $300 list and on eBay, OEM parts are $200 for pads and rotors for the front AND rear.

$300 for front brakes should be the limit anyone should pay. And better yet, it is something you can easily learn to do yourself or have a friend do it for a 6-pack of beer.

Rich

 

I've never done brakes on a Mini. My wife's mini (Buzz '08 MCSa) has 33k on it now. Last time she was at the dealer (about 5k ago) she said they looked some type of indicator and said they were probably good for another 9 - 10k.

Is there some kind of wear indicator on each wheel? What should I be looking for? I'd like to change them before they get so worn that I have to replace the sensor.

TIA,

Chris

 

I paid $450 CDN for rotors and pads on my MC. They gave me a bit of a deal.

 

You have wear sensors on the front left and right rear brake pads. As they wear they input to the computer and show up inm the service menu of the car with a countdown mileage "timer".

The sensor isn't all that expensive to replace, but I agree it's not necessary if you're the kind of person that pays attention to your car.

 

unless something has changed that sensor isn't that smart

what you have at the wheels is a wear sensor that is a simple loop of wire encased in plastic that sits at a certain place in the pad. When the pad wears down so much, this sensor begins to touch the rotor during braking and eventually it is worn down to such point that the loop of wire is broken. This causes an open sircuit and the computer says, "time for new pads". If you replace the pads b4 this sensor is consumed then you can save the cost of the sensor replacement. (many who don't care for or trust the sensor have simply spliced the ends together after it was used up, and zip tie it out of the way. You can not remove it tho as that registers as the open circuit and the warning for pad wear won't go away)

There is also a counter in the OBC and it is calculating brake wear in the same way it calculates when your oil should be changed. There is a base number which is adjusted by what the computer learns about your driving habits ... how fast you go, how hard you slow down ... this I tend to trust very little but it has yet to say my pads need be replaced which I confirm visually.

The dealer will (should) actually measure the pad thickness. They know how thick the pad is when new, and know what the minimum recommended thickness is, so it is easy to calculate how much longer you have when they know how many miles since the pads were new...

An EASY rule of thumb to use is this: with most alloy wheels you can look thru the wheel and see the brake pad. If you remove the wheel, like when rotoating, you can easily see the pad. When the pad material is thinner than the pad backing plate it is time to replace the pads. Or soon anyway.

Here is an almost new S front pad, with some white paint to highlight the backing plate

{that groove in the middle is where the wear sensor slides in}

and here is a worn pad, that I replaced


You might also notice on this OEM pad the edge is beveled at the ends; and note that when the bevel is gone, the pad is about as thin as the backing plate - another visual clue on an OEM pad and some aftermarkets but I don't believe all have it (EBC does)

BMW has a spiffy little tool that slides into a special hole in the brake unit allowing the pad thickness to be easily measured but the principle is the same. To be MOST accurate you'd want to look at both the outer AND ineer pads because uneven wear can happen and would be an issue if it did....

 

You ALWAYS replace the rotors and pads together? Seriously? Why?

I find I get at a minimum of at least two pad changes per rotor change and that is with bad calipers. If everthing is good on the brake system, I expect at least three pad changes per rotor change. My last MINI, had 100,000+miles, three pad changes and finally changed the rotors.

 

Replaced the pads and labor for the fronts...$124.00 at an Service Place that specializes in European Cars...The owner has a MINI.

 

MINI recommends/requires rotor change with pad change. Sorry I don't have a reference but that has been 'the word' since way back.

I too believe this is a bit aggressive and have gone for myself and those who I do work for, with a two pads to one set of rotors policy.

Could I have gone 3 ... I dunno, I feel OK at 2. But the real metric would be the minimum rotor thickness which is stamped into the rotor . . . If you have changed pads twice, and you measure the thickness, and know the minimum thickness, you can determine if you are good for a third set of pads or not . . . how well did you listen in math class?

word problems

A significant issue would be if you are having the rotors re-surfaced. Old school says don't replace the rotor but resurface it ... that means put it on a lathe and skim the surface to smooth. How much metal do you loose there? I don't resurface unless I see significant scoring and then consider the machining cost vs new rotors . . . .

 

Check Tire Rack for parts. Akebono ceramic front pads $69, OEM ATE front pads $100 and Centric rotors $51 ea...yeah $650 with labor is a bit steep. Changing front pads and rotors is not a difficult job to do yourself. Savings would be more like $400+, worth spending some time with fellow MINI enthusiasts to learn how to do your own maintenance IMHO.

 

I like the idea that the pads and rotors are bedded together. I am old school but will not resurface rotors any more as they are simply too inexpensive to replace.

If I am doing the job, I do it all the way. I also exchange the fluid each spring as well if the brakes need replacing or not.

The bottom line is that "for me" brakes are not something to skimp on. But I have put just pads on for friends that I know don't drive hard. But if we are going for anything but OEM pads, then it gets rotors as well.

I also change my oil every 5000 miles. My theory is that doing that can't hurt, is not expensive and gives me a chance to really go over everything at regular intervals. Clearly it could go 10,000 without a problem but I have been doing 5000 mile changes for many years now so I am in a rut. That said, in my opinion the 15,000 intervals that the computer suggests is excessive. Perhaps it I didn't do it myself and actually enjoy it I would think otherwise.

Rich

 

I just did mine for 200. Get on eBay get drilled rotors, and ceramic dust free pads for both front and rear. .. it is easy.. OH.. you have to buy the mm allen to get the front rotors off. i got it at Advance in Falls Church.. took a few hours in heat.. but it is easy to do..

 

you should be able to get 2 pad changes on every set of rotors, as long as the rotor has a thickness of 20.4mm or more you don't have to change the rotors, this is for the front. Rears are 8.4mm.

 

How is the stopping power and brake feel with the ceramics compared to the OEM pads? The independent Mini repair shop will put ceramics on for $10 more but cautions that they really don't recommend that because they simply don't stop as well. Also, what is the projected impact on the rotor life of the ceramic pads compared to OEM pads? Assuming one was going to do ceramics, would I be correct that you need to do all 4 at the same time to avoid having an issue of different stopping power on the fronts compared to the rears or would the difference be small enough it doesn't matter?

 

Ebay brake parts, yeah if you want to die. That is some sketchy **** right there. $650 is not that bad of a deal considering where it is coming from. People freak out about brakes costing so much. Look at what that does, it is one of the if not most important parts on your car. So, why would you to skimp on it. Hell I spent $650 on upgrade pads and rotors.

 

Our 2008 base Mini with 20,650 miles just had the yellow brake light go on. I have been quoted $217 for pads only or $495 for pads plus rotors (from an independent specialty Mini shop in Merriam, Kansas). This shop is happy just to do the pads (assuming they check out thick enough, which they should given the car's mileage and way it has been driven), but won't warrant them to be quiet unless the rotors are also replaced (at $94 each plus extra labor). My question is how likely is it that OEM-style pads will squeal if the rotors are not replaced? Also, is there anything to look for in the existing rotors to give any indication that they would or would not be quiet?