R56 Mini Driving Lights on a 2011
Mini Driving Lights on a 2011
Have a 2011 MCS Pepper White / Black Top / Black Sport stripes on order, and I am already thinking about modding it.
I dig the look of these OEM Accessories Black driving lamps http://www.minimotoringgear.com/#/pr...?CenterId=null
I checked with the dealership and they want to me charge me $895 installed
Honestly I don't even care if the lights turn on or not! I will probably just put black covers on them and keep them as is all the time.
Do fellow NAM members how else I can get the look for cheaper?
I dig the look of these OEM Accessories Black driving lamps http://www.minimotoringgear.com/#/pr...?CenterId=null
I checked with the dealership and they want to me charge me $895 installed
Honestly I don't even care if the lights turn on or not! I will probably just put black covers on them and keep them as is all the time.
Do fellow NAM members how else I can get the look for cheaper?
OutMotoring
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...ing-tint-lens/
Call Aaron, the owner. Great guy. He can probably even get whats not listed on the site
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...ing-tint-lens/
Call Aaron, the owner. Great guy. He can probably even get whats not listed on the site
The OEM lights must be tied to the main system, which means that after you install them you apparently have to have the cars computer adjusted to know they're there. Don't know why you can't just tap into the existing light power. Owners of the oem can speak to this.
But the aftermarket systems which you can also find on outmotoring are independent systems and you can do it more simply.
But the aftermarket systems which you can also find on outmotoring are independent systems and you can do it more simply.
I've installed factory and aftermarket for folks on GEN1's a half dozen times or so.
Factory installed driving lights have never been cheap ... the kit alone is twice the cost of 'other' makes.
GEN1 factory driving lights did/do not require any dealer reprogramming. They add a new switch in the bolster panel on the driver side.
GEN1 fog lights use a switch that would normally reside in the toggle bank below the a/c controls. Adding this new toggle requires changing the switch bank in a factory set up, and reprogramming to make the main computer recognise the switch. (unless you decide to disect things and DIY as several folks around NAM have done)
I have not installed a set of GEN2 lights but if OP wants the look without functionality, you can buy a set of mounting brackets from outmotoring, or via a dealer and then hang any 'inexpensive' set of lights - PIAA or HELLA or LUCAS - and skip the wiring. Light sets can be found for $100. Actually these same sets can be wired up too and will cost less than 1/2 what the factory setup costs. If you have any metal skills, fabricating a set of brackets would not be difficult.
Factory installed driving lights have never been cheap ... the kit alone is twice the cost of 'other' makes.
GEN1 factory driving lights did/do not require any dealer reprogramming. They add a new switch in the bolster panel on the driver side.
GEN1 fog lights use a switch that would normally reside in the toggle bank below the a/c controls. Adding this new toggle requires changing the switch bank in a factory set up, and reprogramming to make the main computer recognise the switch. (unless you decide to disect things and DIY as several folks around NAM have done)
I have not installed a set of GEN2 lights but if OP wants the look without functionality, you can buy a set of mounting brackets from outmotoring, or via a dealer and then hang any 'inexpensive' set of lights - PIAA or HELLA or LUCAS - and skip the wiring. Light sets can be found for $100. Actually these same sets can be wired up too and will cost less than 1/2 what the factory setup costs. If you have any metal skills, fabricating a set of brackets would not be difficult.
Last edited by Capt_bj; Oct 3, 2010 at 05:44 AM.
The OEM lights must be tied to the main system, which means that after you install them you apparently have to have the cars computer adjusted to know they're there. Don't know why you can't just tap into the existing light power. Owners of the oem can speak to this.
But the aftermarket systems which you can also find on outmotoring are independent systems and you can do it more simply.
But the aftermarket systems which you can also find on outmotoring are independent systems and you can do it more simply.
Would you mind to disclose approx how much you paid (parts + labor)? Just want to get an idea if $895 from my dealership is too excessive...
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Search for Morristown MINI on the web. They have great prices and I got my dealer to match their price. My independent installer had a much better price for the installation as well. I can't recall the exact price but it was much better than what the dealer wanted.
Last edited by Augie05; Oct 2, 2010 at 07:35 PM.
curious I went to the current 'configurator' and they list the driving lights at $550 (in round numbers) PLUS dealer installation cost . . . . it appears your dealer wants $300 for the installation and I'd say that's excessive even at $100 per hour. ALTHO the dealer kit on a GEN1 was MUCH harder to install then a PIAA or HELLA kit, even if you used the factory brackets. The wiring to get the factory switch to light up and where they tapped the high beam trigger was just silly IMHO...added nearly an hour to the job needlessly (for a first timer, and maybe 30 min thereafter)
If I was buying an 11 and wanted the driving lights I'd see if the cost having them factory ordered where they might get installed at the arrival center was less. The factory kit is still crazy expensive but if buried in 48 payments . . .
Or I'd go for a set of outmotoring brackets (or I'd make my own but I do a bit of metal fabrication and have welding gear) and a PIAA or HELLA kit. All you need to do is install a simple toggle switch in the location of your choice in the cabin.
Bring it by with what you buy. I'll install 'em while you listen to my sea stories and after you'll buy me a Mahi sandwich and a Guiness and we'll call it even... well maybe two pints . . .
If I was buying an 11 and wanted the driving lights I'd see if the cost having them factory ordered where they might get installed at the arrival center was less. The factory kit is still crazy expensive but if buried in 48 payments . . .
Or I'd go for a set of outmotoring brackets (or I'd make my own but I do a bit of metal fabrication and have welding gear) and a PIAA or HELLA kit. All you need to do is install a simple toggle switch in the location of your choice in the cabin.
Bring it by with what you buy. I'll install 'em while you listen to my sea stories and after you'll buy me a Mahi sandwich and a Guiness and we'll call it even... well maybe two pints . . .
Last edited by Capt_bj; Oct 3, 2010 at 03:27 PM.
I wish I had known about the outmotoring brackets.
I bought the kit (grill and brackets from morristown mini)
and a set of hella 500 fog beam configuration.
I had to cut the grill with a dremmel.
I don't have a close up.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...Picture008.jpg
They are wired from the battery directly, to a relay of course,
and to a switch under the dash. I get the power on signal from the bottom
of the lighter.
This way, they can come on with the car automatically, or be manually
turned on or off. They are pointed a little below the level of my
low beams.
I use them as DRLs and I can tell you it has significantly cut the
amount of close calls. They are handy in the rain but very not
handy in fog.
I think the entire setup was under $200.
Knowing what I know now I would get the outmotoring brackets
and the lights (I think those brackets come out further than the
mini ones) and just drill out the grill I have which would save a lot
of money and you still could not tell you worked on it.
I bought the kit (grill and brackets from morristown mini)
and a set of hella 500 fog beam configuration.
I had to cut the grill with a dremmel.
I don't have a close up.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...Picture008.jpg
They are wired from the battery directly, to a relay of course,
and to a switch under the dash. I get the power on signal from the bottom
of the lighter.
This way, they can come on with the car automatically, or be manually
turned on or off. They are pointed a little below the level of my
low beams.
I use them as DRLs and I can tell you it has significantly cut the
amount of close calls. They are handy in the rain but very not
handy in fog.
I think the entire setup was under $200.
Knowing what I know now I would get the outmotoring brackets
and the lights (I think those brackets come out further than the
mini ones) and just drill out the grill I have which would save a lot
of money and you still could not tell you worked on it.
Condor, I'm very close to pulling the trigger on black magics and the out motoring brackets.
What is the argument in favor of stock dealer driving lifts vs the hellas? Is there one? I know there's an oem value in letting the dealer install them for you rolled into your loan, but even then, im not sure...
What is the argument in favor of stock dealer driving lifts vs the hellas? Is there one? I know there's an oem value in letting the dealer install them for you rolled into your loan, but even then, im not sure...
My dealer cost for Mini driving lights.
The Chrome lights = $310.10
The Bracket/grill / installation kit set = $107.50
2.50 hours laber to install = $292.00
Total cost was $719.60 installed.
I guess any tax involved was included in my laber charge because no tax is on my bill.
They work when I put my hi-beams on. The switch is on the left side of my dash and does light up with the headlights. A little button light on the switch lights up when the driving lights are on.
They sure are bright and light up the road a very long distance. They sure look good to me.

The Bracket/grill / installation kit set = $107.50
2.50 hours laber to install = $292.00
Total cost was $719.60 installed.
I guess any tax involved was included in my laber charge because no tax is on my bill.
They work when I put my hi-beams on. The switch is on the left side of my dash and does light up with the headlights. A little button light on the switch lights up when the driving lights are on.
They sure are bright and light up the road a very long distance. They sure look good to me.

Sorry for the delay. As noted in my frustrated posts I've been struggling with the airbag light.
The advantage of having the dealer do it is you can roll it into the
loan and you don't have to struggle.
Although that's been one of my easiest "mods".
I'm certainly no genious but I'm calling the lights on the front
easy. Particuarly since the cobwebs are knocked down now.
It's almost all external to the engine bay.
(relay, high power wires, etc etc). Contrary to the directions
with the hellas I did not run the power from the headlights.
I ran my own wires from the battery. I think it was easier.
Plus if something happens it is not really connected to the mini,
except that one spot, the lighter.
I have made other mods for all my gadgets.
What I do now when I get a car or in case of the CRX I have been
running a power and ground into the cabin, from the battery, and
making my own little fuse box under the dash. I put a fuse at
the battery too. Although it takes up some room. I think now
I might start just running a bigger wire to maybe a 12 pin molex
connector. To save space and trouble. I've not thought it all
through yet.
I can tell you it is handy to be able to run the things when you want
and turn them off when you want. You wont get that with the OEM.
However, they are not auto dim/meaning auto off when you dim.
But again, for my application, I'm not using driving lights and it does
make a big difference on how it illuminates.
BTW, these things, pointed lower than the low beams light up
way into the woods on a country road. I actually was able to
see a deer and stop before it jumped out.
Lemme know I'd give you any advice possible.
The advantage of having the dealer do it is you can roll it into the
loan and you don't have to struggle.
Although that's been one of my easiest "mods".
I'm certainly no genious but I'm calling the lights on the front
easy. Particuarly since the cobwebs are knocked down now.
It's almost all external to the engine bay.
(relay, high power wires, etc etc). Contrary to the directions
with the hellas I did not run the power from the headlights.
I ran my own wires from the battery. I think it was easier.
Plus if something happens it is not really connected to the mini,
except that one spot, the lighter.
I have made other mods for all my gadgets.
What I do now when I get a car or in case of the CRX I have been
running a power and ground into the cabin, from the battery, and
making my own little fuse box under the dash. I put a fuse at
the battery too. Although it takes up some room. I think now
I might start just running a bigger wire to maybe a 12 pin molex
connector. To save space and trouble. I've not thought it all
through yet.
I can tell you it is handy to be able to run the things when you want
and turn them off when you want. You wont get that with the OEM.
However, they are not auto dim/meaning auto off when you dim.
But again, for my application, I'm not using driving lights and it does
make a big difference on how it illuminates.
BTW, these things, pointed lower than the low beams light up
way into the woods on a country road. I actually was able to
see a deer and stop before it jumped out.
Lemme know I'd give you any advice possible.
Hello,
I'm thinking about having the driving lamps installed on my 2011 Cooper S. What are these lamps used for exactly? Just extra light? Are they brighter than your headlights? How much of a difference do they make? Would I use my high beams less on very dark roads.
Thanks.
I'm thinking about having the driving lamps installed on my 2011 Cooper S. What are these lamps used for exactly? Just extra light? Are they brighter than your headlights? How much of a difference do they make? Would I use my high beams less on very dark roads.
Thanks.
We have tons of deer here in Northern Mississippi. The xenons are great for lighting the road but that is exactly what they do. They are very focused and you don't see the deer hanging out along the road until they are infront of you. The driving lights cast a much bigger cone and light up all the eyes along the road. I have them on my Clubbie and am having them put on my one that is now sitting at port.
The Chrome lights = $310.10
The Bracket/grill / installation kit set = $107.50
2.50 hours laber to install = $292.00
Total cost was $719.60 installed.
I guess any tax involved was included in my laber charge because no tax is on my bill.
They work when I put my hi-beams on. The switch is on the left side of my dash and does light up with the headlights. A little button light on the switch lights up when the driving lights are on.
They sure are bright and light up the road a very long distance. They sure look good to me.
The Bracket/grill / installation kit set = $107.50
2.50 hours laber to install = $292.00
Total cost was $719.60 installed.
I guess any tax involved was included in my laber charge because no tax is on my bill.
They work when I put my hi-beams on. The switch is on the left side of my dash and does light up with the headlights. A little button light on the switch lights up when the driving lights are on.
They sure are bright and light up the road a very long distance. They sure look good to me.
I installed them myself on my 08 S. The complete OEM Kit was just under $500. The wiring into the foot well module was a little tricky on the first set I did, second set I did for a friend in half the time. It'll take you a Saturday morning first time. They work great, look great and create a good fill light around the Xenons.
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