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R56 First Oil Change

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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 06:26 AM
  #26  
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tjtull
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From: St. Louis, MO
Originally Posted by Robin Casady
Just barely touch, but not enough to be a problem? How are they otherwise? Do you need someone to guide you driving up them? Any burning clutch oders from getting up them? Last time I used ramps with my Integra it was very scary and difficult not to burn the clutch. They were too steep for the MCS to clear, but the Integra seemed to have a lower gear than the MCS. So, I'm wondering what the experience is like?
I haven't tried to drive up them yet, just measured them. It doesn't look like the bottom rubber part will be a problem. It's very pliable and should bend right back. Once the upward motion starts, the bumper should clear the ramp anyway. My only worry is that the ramps might get pushed, but from everything I've read about these ramps, they stay in place better than metal ramps. It's not much of an incline, so I think it will be fine. I'll probably have someone spot me the first few times I do it though, just to be safe.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 06:34 AM
  #27  
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From: St. Louis, MO
Originally Posted by MontanaMini
My husband and I debated needing the oil change--he said to go with the manufacturer's suggestion, I want to do it more often. I have almost 7k on Nigel and really want to have the oil changed--but there's no way I can get my husband to do it and I'm afraid of messing something up if I try.
Does anyone ever take theirs in to get the oil changed at a speedylube/QuickChange kind of place?
I have taken cars to Jiffy Lube in the past, but I had a bad experience once with my wife's car so we started taking ours to an actual garage where we know it will be done right, and they don't charge a lot more. I intend to change the oil on my MINI myself, simply because of the specialized filter...I don't trust anyone to do it right. Plus, they'll probably charge an arm and a leg for the filter (if they even keep it in stock). I know I could take the filter in myself but once I've gone to the trouble of buying the filter, I might as well do the oil change
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 06:50 AM
  #28  
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From: Pompano
Originally Posted by minisystema
Just did mine last weekend. Piece of cake

Don't reach into the filter housing to clean every last drop of all and you'll be fine.

I would highly suggest you order an inexpensive Fumoto oil ($20) drain valve F-106 or F-106N (N has a nipple to attach a tube if your oil pan doesn't fit under a lowered car). The non-N is all I've needed. Then you can throw away that stuck on drain bolt for good. I've used them for years on my S2000 and Z4 and they work well.

Best,
T.
Do you think the fumoto would be a problem on the R56 tho? The pan plug does face straight down, but I don't think the F-106 is too big that it will be to risky to have facing the ground
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 09:16 AM
  #29  
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Robin Casady
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From: Paradise
Originally Posted by MontanaMini
My husband and I debated needing the oil change--he said to go with the manufacturer's suggestion, I want to do it more often. I have almost 7k on Nigel and really want to have the oil changed--but there's no way I can get my husband to do it and I'm afraid of messing something up if I try.
Does anyone ever take theirs in to get the oil changed at a speedylube/QuickChange kind of place?
I would stay far away from quick oil change places. There are lots of horror stories. I experienced one myself with Jiffy Lube -- resulted in a cracked head on an Acura. Never again.

Here is what I would do to get your husband to help with the oil change:

Plead with him to do it with the agreement that you will send a sample of the oil to http://www.blackstone-labs.com/standard_analysis.html

You can read more about oil analysis here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm

Once you've done that, you will have a good idea how often to change the oil. It will not be a matter on contention between you. IMO, $22.50 is worth it for peace of mind on when to do future oil changes.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 09:17 AM
  #30  
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Robin Casady
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From: Paradise
Originally Posted by tjtull
I haven't tried to drive up them yet, just measured them. It doesn't look like the bottom rubber part will be a problem. It's very pliable and should bend right back. Once the upward motion starts, the bumper should clear the ramp anyway. My only worry is that the ramps might get pushed, but from everything I've read about these ramps, they stay in place better than metal ramps. It's not much of an incline, so I think it will be fine. I'll probably have someone spot me the first few times I do it though, just to be safe.
Please give us a report when you do it.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 11:10 AM
  #31  
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tjtull
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From: St. Louis, MO
Originally Posted by Robin Casady
Please give us a report when you do it.
I just gave the ramps a test run. I didn't use a spotter but I was very cautious getting up the ramps. I'm happy to report, I made it up and back down with no problem whatsoever. It is a bit difficult to judge when you're completely on the flat surface of the ramp, that's where a spotter would come in handy. I'll use one next time.

One thing I did notice, the ramps moved backward (in the direction of the car). I was thinking the ramps might be pushed forward but I guess the tire rotation pulled the ramps closer (roughly 4"). I also checked under the bumper, no scrape marks at all. It seems the bumper completely cleared the ramps.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 12:30 PM
  #32  
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Robin Casady
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From: Paradise
Originally Posted by tjtull
I just gave the ramps a test run. I didn't use a spotter but I was very cautious getting up the ramps. I'm happy to report, I made it up and back down with no problem whatsoever. It is a bit difficult to judge when you're completely on the flat surface of the ramp, that's where a spotter would come in handy. I'll use one next time.
Guess I'll stick with jack stands because I can do those by myself.

One thing I did notice, the ramps moved backward (in the direction of the car). I was thinking the ramps might be pushed forward but I guess the tire rotation pulled the ramps closer (roughly 4").
Put the parking brake on and you could suck them under the car without the car moving.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 02:01 PM
  #33  
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tjtull
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From: St. Louis, MO
Originally Posted by Robin Casady
Guess I'll stick with jack stands because I can do those by myself.
I was thinking of possibly putting a large mirror beside the car and doing it that way. A full-length mirror would do the job, then you could see where you're at. I think, after some practice, I can get a feel for it and it shouldn't be a problem.

Originally Posted by Robin Casady
Put the parking brake on and you could suck them under the car without the car moving.

Ha!! Now that WOULD be a trick
 

Last edited by tjtull; Mar 29, 2008 at 02:09 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 02:49 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by KenL
You may have a point there
Yes, a good point. My wife,s Hummer had 50% remaining on the olm which is based on conventional oil. I had used synthetic and analysis said it was spent at less than 5000 miles.
I believe manufacturers want you to last through warranty. Selling more cars is where they make money.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 04:05 PM
  #35  
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From: Melbourne, FL
Fumoto vs R56

Originally Posted by checkercoop
Do you think the fumoto would be a problem on the R56 tho? The pan plug does face straight down, but I don't think the F-106 is too big that it will be to risky to have facing the ground
I'm a great fan of the Fumoto....I've put them on my cars and recommend them to ALL MINI owners...pre R56....

GEN1 MINIs .... I hold tech sessions at my house to teach people how to change their own oil (OK not rocket science but appreciate some APPRECIATE this demonstration) I can't tell you how many times I can't get the drain plug out without an impact wrench or a bolt extractor. For GEN1 this is a no brainer, replace the bung with a valve....

HOWEVER...GEN2...the drain is straight down? There is NO WAY I'd put a Fumoto on my 07...... If they set out to make a Fumoto unusable on a GEN2, MINI could not have done a better job.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 04:21 PM
  #36  
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From: Pompano
Originally Posted by Capt_bj
I'm a great fan of the Fumoto....I've put them on my cars and recommend them to ALL MINI owners...pre R56....

GEN1 MINIs .... I hold tech sessions at my house to teach people how to change their own oil (OK not rocket science but appreciate some APPRECIATE this demonstration) I can't tell you how many times I can't get the drain plug out without an impact wrench or a bolt extractor. For GEN1 this is a no brainer, replace the bung with a valve....

HOWEVER...GEN2...the drain is straight down? There is NO WAY I'd put a Fumoto on my 07...... If they set out to make a Fumoto unusable on a GEN2, MINI could not have done a better job.
But isn't it common for some cars to have the plug facing straight down? I thought this was good for all cars...I think I may take a picture so people can see and maybe it can be seen that some of the front bumper dips down to cover where it would be from straight on debris

How tall is the fumoto?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 04:47 PM
  #37  
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Capt_bj
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My opinion...

my 2 cents....

I'd NEVER hang anything below the pan....

I've seen too many scrapes on the underside that I couldn't explain

And remember a friend with his 12 cyl jag sitting in the middle of the parking lot after he wiped the drain plug off on a speed bump.....
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 07:04 PM
  #38  
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Originally Posted by checkercoop
But isn't it common for some cars to have the plug facing straight down? I thought this was good for all cars...I think I may take a picture so people can see and maybe it can be seen that some of the front bumper dips down to cover where it would be from straight on debris

How tall is the fumoto?
No, its not a common design (maybe a German thing?). Most designs account for that someone may actually want to use the drain plug. At an angle you just get your socket wrench in from the side and there is barely any mess. With the MINI oil seeps from all sides once its loosened and you have hot oil pouring all over your hands while you try to get it the rest of the way out. With the torx socket, having it flat, and burying the oil filter it seems intentionally annoying. All the cars ive changed other than the mini use a standard bolt at an angle right on the bottom of the pan.
Still, its a ton better than paying someone way too much to do it.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 12:22 AM
  #39  
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Robin Casady
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From: Paradise
Originally Posted by ChiliXer
No, its not a common design (maybe a German thing?).
Or maybe there just wasn't any other good place to put it.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 05:17 PM
  #40  
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German design?

Who is it again that MINI got the GEN2 engine from.......

even the GEN1 wasn't German.....well, maybe closer that GEN2....

payback is hell....

All the Fum' valves I've applied over the years have been about 1 inch in length.....and some use an adapter to make them longer to clear oil pan bends.

Would I hang a 1 inch pipe straight down off the oil pan? NO

I HOPE the GEN2 plug comes out easier. But since I follow the manufact's recommendations I'm not close to a DIY oil change yet on the 07
 

Last edited by Capt_bj; Mar 30, 2008 at 05:21 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 05:37 PM
  #41  
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Robin Casady
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From: Paradise
Originally Posted by Capt_bj
Who is it again that MINI got the GEN2 engine from.......
BMW and Peugeot collaboration. Peugeot is that company that is known for making great high performance ralley engines...

even the GEN1 wasn't German.....well, maybe closer that GEN2....
Hardly. Wasn't it a Chrysler engine made in Brasil?

payback is hell....
Payback for what?

All the Fum' valves I've applied over the years have been about 1 inch in length.....and some use an adapter to make them longer to clear oil pan bends.

Would I hang a 1 inch pipe straight down off the oil pan? NO

I HOPE the GEN2 plug comes out easier.
It isn't hard to get out. It just makes a mess of your hand with hot oil spilling on it. Best to use gloves.

But since I follow the manufact's recommendations I'm not close to a DIY oil change yet on the 07
Not even close to be being close. You've probably got at least three more years.
 
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