R56 Underpowered Heater?
I have a manual hvac system and have noticed that it does take a long time to cool and heat. Just tonight (32 degrees outside) it took about 13-15 minutes before I really started to feel some heat and that was on the hottest setting (with no snowflake depressed). Maybe my system is faulty? Anyone else with a manual setting having this issue of slow response time?
The other thing to try (and by far the easiest and cheapest and this is the first thing to do) When you start your car, do you turn the heat all the way to hot and air to high the minute you get in the car? This can also make the heater take much longer to get hot as well. There is no good reason to blast your ankles with freezing air, so watch your temperature gauge. It will be cold, cold cold, then suddenly will start upward. When it starts getting some heat, only then turn on your heater and see if you have better results. Now, if the temp gauge like NEVER starts upward forever and ever, then that is indicative that you need a new thermostat.
Well, by that notion 84º degrees is still about 14 degrees off from your body's temperature, but setting my heat to 84º works pretty well (The air is a LOT hotter than 84º). As others have said, that's not how automatic HVAC systems work. The temperature you set it to is the temperature it tries to maintain, NOT the temperature of the air that comes out (WAY too many people don't know that).
That's why people hate Auto HVAC, because they play with the controls too much and it ends up being more work than manual. Set the temperature, and leave it alone. If the temperature you set is too hot, lower it, if it's too cold, raise it. Too often do I see people get in their car and set the temperature to "High" or "Low".
Sorry, I would NEVER want my car to be 86º+ or 60º- (Both those settings crank the AC to 100% and LEAVE it there. My AC rarely leaves 70º unless the temperature difference is extreme. Sometimes when I get in the car if it's really cold out I'll raise it to 78º until it warms up, then lower it to 70º, if it's really hot out, I'll lower it to 66º until it cools down then raise it back to 70º. There's NO reason to adjust the air temperature 25 times on a 30-40 minute drive. The only reason I change it when I get in the car is to compensate for the systems sluggish response to temperature changes.
That's why people hate Auto HVAC, because they play with the controls too much and it ends up being more work than manual. Set the temperature, and leave it alone. If the temperature you set is too hot, lower it, if it's too cold, raise it. Too often do I see people get in their car and set the temperature to "High" or "Low".
Sorry, I would NEVER want my car to be 86º+ or 60º- (Both those settings crank the AC to 100% and LEAVE it there. My AC rarely leaves 70º unless the temperature difference is extreme. Sometimes when I get in the car if it's really cold out I'll raise it to 78º until it warms up, then lower it to 70º, if it's really hot out, I'll lower it to 66º until it cools down then raise it back to 70º. There's NO reason to adjust the air temperature 25 times on a 30-40 minute drive. The only reason I change it when I get in the car is to compensate for the systems sluggish response to temperature changes.
The heated seats are nice. 
Somewhere I read that the MINI does not use a traditional coolant thermostat. My MCS will take much longer to reach 222 F* (normal running temp) than my Integra. I've actually driven about four miles in the MINI before it reached operating temp. It depends on the kind of driving, and how much load there is.
*I use a ScanGaugeII for coolant temp readout.

Somewhere I read that the MINI does not use a traditional coolant thermostat. My MCS will take much longer to reach 222 F* (normal running temp) than my Integra. I've actually driven about four miles in the MINI before it reached operating temp. It depends on the kind of driving, and how much load there is.
*I use a ScanGaugeII for coolant temp readout.
On Windows, hold down the ALT key, type 0176 on the numeric keypad, and then release the ALT key.
..and from the teach a man to fish department...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_Alt_keycodes
~Neal
I have the auto climate control and there is one thing I don't understand. Now it's cold in the North East, when I turn on the system the AC light (snow flake symbol) comes on. I don't want that, do I? I turn off the AC and it heats up just fine, but why does it turn the AC on in the first place?
typing that in is harder than just typing out degree though... or at least to me...
i find it funny that you complain about the weak heater... they should just route the hood into the car cuz that thing gets scorching!
I have the auto climate control and there is one thing I don't understand. Now it's cold in the North East, when I turn on the system the AC light (snow flake symbol) comes on. I don't want that, do I? I turn off the AC and it heats up just fine, but why does it turn the AC on in the first place?
What I want to know is, can I turn off the ice warning chime that rings whenever it's below 37 or whatever? Thanks for the tip, but trust me, I already know it's cold out.
Last edited by Spectral Glider; Nov 30, 2007 at 08:40 AM.
I have the auto climate control and there is one thing I don't understand. Now it's cold in the North East, when I turn on the system the AC light (snow flake symbol) comes on. I don't want that, do I? I turn off the AC and it heats up just fine, but why does it turn the AC on in the first place?
To anyone suffering from a "weak" heater: Did you open your hood scoop up? I had mine open and once it got really cold my heat never warmed up. I plugged it back up with the intention of keeping salt/ whatnot out of my engine compartment and voila! Wicked hot heater that is almost instantaneous!
I have the auto climate control and there is one thing I don't understand. Now it's cold in the North East, when I turn on the system the AC light (snow flake symbol) comes on. I don't want that, do I? I turn off the AC and it heats up just fine, but why does it turn the AC on in the first place?
When the cooling function is on,
the air is cooled, dried, then
reheated according to the temperature
setting.
Depending on the weather, the windshield may
fog over briefly when the engine is started or the
cooling function is switched off. The recirculated-
air mode may is switched on automatically.
The cooling function is automatically switched
on along with the AUTO program. The passenger
compartment can only be cooled while the
engine is running.
As far as the heating/cooling system in the R56, the auto climate control is pretty good ... I've had no problems with it ... I will say that it takes about the same, maybe a little longer than my previous car's auto climate control (03 Acura RSX type-s), but not a significant enough different to complain about.
Last edited by Karthi; Dec 16, 2007 at 09:04 AM.
I have the manual heater. With the outside temp at about 35, I can feel warm air after driving a couple of blocks. In about a mile or so, I have to turn it back. It hasn't been in the 20's here so I can't say how it would work with that outside temp, but I expect it would be about the same.
It does seem odd, but an air con paired with a heater is the most effective method of removing interior condensation. It's just that you should be able to turn on the AC at will, not have it come on automatically.
I have the manual heat and lately it has been below 20F. I have heat within 2 miles with no warmup what so ever. These cars do not have thermostats, the water pump stays off until the water temp is up. If you are having problems with heat your water pump could be running before the water temp gets up to the proper operating temp.
Huh? 
From http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=re...WlVjMqgL-oix8w

From http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=re...WlVjMqgL-oix8w
Originally Posted by page 14
Integration of numerous functions and components such as the oil dipstick,
the vacuum pump, the high-pressure pump, thermostat housing and
intake silencer serves additionally to meet the great demands made of the
engine package.
the vacuum pump, the high-pressure pump, thermostat housing and
intake silencer serves additionally to meet the great demands made of the
engine package.
Originally Posted by page 15
To save drive power and expedite the warming-up process, coolant is not
circulated until the engine has reached its normal operating temperature.
Then, when it has reached the appropriate temperature, the engine is held
steady at that point by a thermostat masterminded by the engine’s
electronic “brain”, ensuring the most fuel-efficient coolant temperature at
each respective operating point.
circulated until the engine has reached its normal operating temperature.
Then, when it has reached the appropriate temperature, the engine is held
steady at that point by a thermostat masterminded by the engine’s
electronic “brain”, ensuring the most fuel-efficient coolant temperature at
each respective operating point.
To anyone suffering from a "weak" heater: Did you open your hood scoop up? I had mine open and once it got really cold my heat never warmed up. I plugged it back up with the intention of keeping salt/ whatnot out of my engine compartment and voila! Wicked hot heater that is almost instantaneous!
all the way. there is one screw that hold the scoop in place. remove it and pull firmly on the scoop and it pops out. once out there are 4 screws that hold the black "mesh" piece. remove them and pull out the piece. reinstall the scoop and you're good to go!
here's the thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...pen+hood+scoop
here's the thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...pen+hood+scoop
Last edited by chili_red07; Dec 16, 2007 at 06:17 PM.




