Here is my interesting story. I had my car in for some minor body work - a truck backed into my car and did about 2K worth of damage - looked minor but cost a lot. When I picked the car up today there was a receipt for a timing chain tensioner replacement. I never said a word to the dealer they simply did the work. In the notes section of the receipt there was the comment that they heard a rattle when starting the car. They measured the chain at 64.3mm and claimed it was fine but the tensioner wheel was "soft" and the chain was not getting enough pressure. The net result is they replaced the tensioner and now everything is fine.

Honestly the only noise I would routinely get is a rapping sound for a few seconds when the car is first started in the morning. At lunch the car doesn't make the sound.

My daughters car makes the same sound so I am going to have it looked at ASAP as it still under warranty.

 

I took my daughters 09 Clubman S in today complaining of the same engine noise I was experiencing on my JWC Clubman and the MINI dealer jumped right on it. I just got a call and the car is all set and ready for pick-up - Wow same day service and I only made the appointment yesterday. I update late if they a only replaced the tensioner or if they replaces the timing chain as well.

I will say that driving my JWC after the repair is noticeably different. There is no engine rattle in the morning and the engine seems tighter - i.e.: fewer noises. Now I'm a little glad the guy backed into my car ;-( or I never would have realized I had a serious engine problem. I guess I'd rather be lucky than good :-)

Update:

I picked up my daughters car and they replaced everything. The timing chain along with what looks like two tensioners and a sprocket along with at least a half dozen miscellaneous smaller parts. The car has 25K miles and is not driven hard. The team at MINI of Peabody has been great.

 

My car only has (well, had) the timing chain rattle under a very specific set of circumstances.

1. Start cold (as in sitting overnight) and idle for 30 seconds.
2. Shut car off. Wait ~30 minutes.
3. Turn car on.

I gave my dealer these instructions and they were able to replicate the noise. Tensioners replaced (chain was within spec) 2 days before the warranty expired.

Now that is the only set of circumstances in 4 years of ownership that caused me any issues. I only run into it in practice if I pull the car out of the garage in the morning to wash it and then drive off afterwards. I am running an oil with thinner cold viscosity (Castrol Syntec 0W-30 aka "German Castrol") and changing it every 5k miles which I'm sure can only help.

 

Had my timing chain replaced at 42000 under warranty. Mechanic told me that not only was the problem the timing chain and guides, but the BMW oil change interval is wrong for the turbos. The turbos burn up oil and if you wait too long and dont check your oil then the chain won't get lubricated. I am going to start to change it every 5000. I also attached the pcv delete and installed the new dos seafoam fogger. I also got the bg induction service done. I will fog my intake every oil change from now on. My jcw is running fantastically and I am getting 40 mpg on the highway. i think I may add a catch can but by cleaning every oil change I don't think I will need it. I am running Mobil one 10w-30 high milage and it runs awesomely.

 

40mpg?

Really. You must drive like a grandma. My car averages 28 to 30. That is a manual calculation which inherently is more accurate than the cars computer. That's with almost 13k on my car. But then again my driving style is one commensurate with the type of vehicle I have and about 60% in town driving.

My wife's car is an auto with almost 60k on the clock and she gets about 32 with 80 % highway driving. Again a manual calculation. I never have figured out how folks get 40mpg. It's beyond our cars capability at least with our style of driving.

 

On long trips I've seen high 30's with my own calculations. Grandma style for sure :D. Why run 10-30 high mileage oil?

 

BabyK, I agree w/ that question, my understanding is the call is for 5W-30 only. I am using the high-mileage Mobil1 at 87K

 

Turbos get worked hard/hot. Some guys run 15w-50 or 20w-50 in their cars. I am not that brave. I have heard that 10w-30 or 40 works great for normal driving turbos. Plus after mini tells you to change your oil once a year(which is terrible advice for a turbo)would you trust what they say. I like how the owners manual tells you that jcw's have to change their plugs every 30000, but you change your oil like a justa. I am starting to get my advice from experienced turbo drivers.

 

Took my Clubman S in for oil change (every 5k miles). The engine started the rattle again. The real culprit on the timing chain issues is low oil. Asked the service manager the correct way to read the dipstick. Told me I was down a quart. The dipstick read a bit lower than midpoint of markers on the dip stick. This starves the timing chain tensioner upon cold start up and causes the rattle with the chain. Had the timing chain assembly replaced at 16k miles.

 

Wow 16k that is fast. Try the pcv delete. I just started driving with but I heard that Peugeot suggests using it to stop from losing oil. Time will tell but I am monitoring my oil like a hawk.

 

Anyone do the PCV delete and see a lower loss in oil consumption? I'm looking at doing this. My chains were done in the high 40k range and I'm at 55k now and thankfully no rattle. But I do run low on oil at every change. I usually do 3-5k. What's everyone's view on oils? Do you use castrol or a different brand? I'm a Mobil 1 guy but wanted to see if anyone has run any tests on there oil. Possibly different weights.

 

BabyK, Ive been a solid Mobil1 believer since the 90s and have run it in all my performance engine cars, including the 21 yr old Pontiac that I have now that makes almost 300HP. Yes, I realize not an enormous number now but for a V6 in 1992 that wasnt bad. So, I have been using 5w-30 Mobil1 exclusively in my S since its first oil change when I bought it, at 39K. I now have 87K and have no major problems, I do notice some consumption, am filling between changes, and also am 95% sure that the tensioner O-ring on the rear right of the engine is misting, sometimes I get a bit of smoke, which I will be addressing very soon. I switched up to using the high mileage formula when I passed 76K.

 

I have run the 5W30 MINI-branded oil (special Castrol formula), Royal Purple 5W30, Pennzoil 5W40, and I just put in Mobil1 0W40. I'm only running the Mobil1 right now because I'm chasing an oil leak and the Mobil1 is readily available at local auto stores. Once I figure out and fix the leak, when I do my next oil change my plan is to go back to the Pennzoil.

 

Now does anyone really know what's so special about the MINI branded oil? Does anyone run Amsoil?

Thanks for the responses sir!

 

Does the recall apply to 2012 models?

 

I was changing every 5k on my Mazdaspeed3. I was amazed when I got my MCS and it said I had 14000 until an oil change.

 

Anybody know about the 2012's?

Thank You

 

Timing belt replaced at 54K, cost to me $2954. A few bad starts and I took it in. Cash, out of pocket. Get it done while you can. 2008 Clubman S

Happy New year everybody.

larry

 

With all this doomsday talk you all have me worried. My wife has a 2011 with 9000 miles. I have changed the oil 3 times so far [just can't do MINI recommedations on that]. What percent of Mini S cars get this timing chain problem. Built many small block chevys and never have had a problem with a chain. Also is MINI a chain or belt?

 

It tells you on MINIs website what type of oil to use. 0w-40 Mobil One is my favorite(European formula). Other than that is stick with Valvoline 5w-30. Those two are top four or five MINIs website recommends. Also for the N18 I've had a recall on my 11' about my timing chain being replaced. And other than that I've had my coolant sensor and thermostat replaced.

 

Does using a oil other than the MINI specific 5W-30 made by Castrol risk the warranty in any way? I have been making it a point to alway change my oil at the dealer just in case I have a engine problem at some point in the future. I do have the oil done every 5K miles and I have noticed the cost at the dealer isn't too much higher than the local Jiffy Lube type shop - kind of $70 vs. $90. The dealer also gives the car a bath - a nice touch.

 

Hmmmm...I'm a new Clubman owner ('10 non-turbo). I noticed a pretty loud rattle at startup while the car was idling. I just assumed it was something normal - is this issue just the turbos??

 

Castrol is on MINIs website too and I believe another brand but look it up, I'm sure it's on the website still. I believe European formula is the way to go but yes Royal Purple isn't on but I know plenty of people who run it. I highly suggest to do oil changes from 5-7.5k miles. I do mine at 5k and I know my car will last longer at least.

 

Last time I checked, the MINI OL listed the following oils:

* - Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
* - Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
* - Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
* - Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30

You should note the Castrol has been rebranded - I think it is now Castrol Edge with Synerlec or Syntec Technology or something. Still European formula and 0W-30.

Pennzoil has not only changed their branding to Pennzoil Ultra Euro, they have changed the recommended oil for MINI to a 5W-40 blend.

The Mobil 1 and Valvoline oils are still the same.

 

Mobil one is the best IMO, have even heard other friends of mine use it on their MINIs, Audi's, Volkswagen's, and Hyundai's. Thanks for posting it, I was too lazy.