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The facelift keys work differently than your R50 key, but fortunately they can paired to the keyless module without going to the dealer. They also have a rechargeable battery and charge by induction while driving. Some people have also charged them using a electric tooth brush charger, but the key doesn’t have an indicator light to let you know if it’s charged or charging. The battery is designed to be non-replaceable, but can be done if the key is cut apart and you have some soldering skills and the correct battery. If not, NAM member Valvashon might still be an option for key repairs and battery replacements.
You can try re-pairing the keys to the keyless module using the instructions in this video:
I rechecked the keyless entry and found I was pushing the wrong buttons, also the electric unlock on the passenger side is not working.
I opened the back trunk and pushed the button all the way in and the light for an open trunk still stayed on, so either it's totally messed up or it's the front switch.
On the way home somewhere the clear part of the right tail light decided to come off.
I ordered a new tail light and an electric module for the passenger side door.
Too cold and windy to mess with the car today, time for a cup of coffee and too defrost.
I'll try to check that out this afternoon, supposed to be a little warmer today.
Here is a picture of the engine bay, not too bad but could be better.
Here is the gap between the drivers door glass and the side glass. I need to see why it is funky and not sealing all the way. I have her under a carport so no chance of water intruision.
A lot of us have replaced that plastic coolant tank with a metal one. With age the OEM tank has been known to split at the seam. And my dipstick wore out at around 100K miles so maybe replace that as well. You don't want a piece of that in the crank case.
A lot of us have replaced that plastic coolant tank with a metal one. With age the OEM tank has been known to split at the seam. And my dipstick wore out at around 100K miles so maybe replace that as well. You don't want a piece of that in the crank case.
The tank is already on the list of upgrades. I'll look into a new dripstick as well.
The serpentine belt tool we be delivered today and the new belt tomorrow. The rear weatherstrip with the chrome that goes around the bottom of the top is a little bit higher in price than I was expecting, that goes on the much later list.
Yes, those trim pieces are way too pricey.
Does your top work? Usually won't move if the door open light is on.
Remember to add supercharger oil change to your urgent maintenance list. Unlikey that it has been done given the worn belt.
Also lube all of the top moving parts in the spring to prevent binding and breakage.
Also lube all of the top moving parts in the spring to prevent binding and breakage.
+1 I keep a can of liquid wrench dry lube handy. Also, the upholstery brush on the shop vac works great for removing dust from the canvas between washings.
I didn't have a lot of time to play with the car because it was the wife's birthday. I did manage to buff the headlights and the header panel and the chrome on the rear-view mirrors. Pushing in both buttons on the rear still didn't turn off the open hatch light, I'll look into it when I have more time. The top still open and closes fine so it's not a huge emergency. As for the side window it looks like it needs to have the regulator/ glass adjusted a little. I was able to move the glass a little more towards the front of the car by hand and that almost closed the gap.
I ordered some Mini all-weather rubber mats for the front since I don't have any mats at all.
I received in a shipment of goodies this week for the new ride.
I got a serpentine belt tool and a new belt, a new set of all weather floor mats, a right side tail light and a passenger door lock assembly. It's below freezing outside so I'm in no hurry to install them.
I went to install the new belt and the idler pulley is trashed, I'm pretty sure that's what is eating the belt. So didn't get that done, I have a new pulley on order.
I did install the new to me right side tail light. Now they both have the plastic covers on them.
Tried to install the passenger side lock assembly but my plastic interior tools are at work and I could not get the armrest off the door. Didn't want to scratch it up so I'll wait.
The switch on the hood is bad, I unhooked it and the open bonnet light went out. I guess I need a new one of those too.
The airbag light is because of the positive battery terminal thingy. The little yellow squib thing just fell off of the terminal and there is a lot of corrosion on the wiring harness. I guess I need a new one of those too.
The armrest on the door just slides forward... will take a little bit of muscle to do it.... I just replaced mine because it was broken at the front. No tools needed
Sounds like you’re making quick work of the issues on the cab.
Any pics of the tail light which is missing the cover?
Mostly curious on the condition of the edges of the housing as the clear covers are supposed to be sonically welded, or permanently attached in some other way, which normally requires using a small cutoff wheel to remove so I can’t see it just falling off while driving.
I have the old housing in the shed and will take a pic tonight and post for you.
The old lenses didn't buff out as good as I had hoped for but I will end up replacing them sooner or later. New rear lenses made a huge difference in the look of my R50.
I got the chrome piece in and installed on the headlight so now I am just waiting on the idler pulley to arrive. I was pretty much a couch potato this weekend, fighting a cold so I limited my time outside. I will try and get the lock assembly installed in the passenger door this afternoon after work. Also pull the hood switch out and see if I can free it up or see if it is just worn out.
Here are the pics of the tail light Here is part of the drive belt Looks like the dampener is coming apart.
I ordered a new dampener and front main seal.
I was able to get the little metal piece bent back out on the switch a hair and the open hood light to stay off.
I also got the arm rest off of the door. Ran out of daylight so might get the door lock done tomorrow.
Thanks for the taillight pics. I thought there might be obvious signs of a previous repair or lens removal, but the edges look pretty clean. I wonder how they are held on. Every lens removal post I’ve seen usually involved a Dremel tool because they didn’t come off like the headlight lenses.
Thanks for the taillight pics. I thought there might be obvious signs of a previous repair or lens removal, but the edges look pretty clean. I wonder how they are held on. Every lens removal post I’ve seen usually involved a Dremel tool because they didn’t come off like the headlight lenses.
you would also think water would get in there and into the body behind the light due to no lens.....looks like water would go through the reverse light area where it's open next to the bulb
I got the new door lock assembly installed yesterday. I forgot what I huge PITA it is to install but happy to report that all the locks are now working correctly! It is nice to have keyless entry that works, I could not get it to work on my R50. Waiting on the new dampener and seal to be delivered.
If you were changing the dampener which are known to come apart with no warning you should have went with the ATI dampener. They are the best replacement for theses cars. You'll also want to use a cravenspeed dipstick or an equivalent. The lower control arm bushings are known to go bad and most people replace with the powerflex bushings. Also the upper motor mounts are usually shot and leaking fluid. I bought my 08 R52 JCW with 64k on it
a couple years ago and had it brought to WMW to get some things fixed like the ac compressor and power steering lines and when it was there he did the balancer and a 15% pulley plus a mild cam he designed to smooth out the power. He also did a trans oil change. Then once I got the car up to NJ I've been toying with it ever since. Working on a car that spent its whole life in New Mexico and Texas is a dream. No rust whatsoever. If you have any questions don't hesitate to PM me. Good luck with her.
Beautiful ride. Love those eyeballs!
I have learned a lot basically restoring my R50 over on the hatch thread. It's a base model but I love it so much I bought it a friend.
I did a quick fix on the dampener as I have to fix my Escalade that my mother in-law wrecked. I'll upgrade to a better one later. You can see the door from the Escalade I replaced yesterday. Don't look at my junk, I have 20 things going on at one time and stuff everywhere.
I have just about everything I need to do the 100-thousand-mile service and replace the control arm bushings with the power flex ones I ordered. I will also be doing a trans oil change at the same time along with a new oil pan gasket.
Yup, my golf bag busted the port side grill some time ago and I've been too lazy to go after it. You just may inspire action.
You will want to replace it till you see the price of them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/113627081042
My wife doesn't ask prices and I don't tell. it's better that way..