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Hello everyone!
This is my second attempt to post this problem (first one was deleted by moderator or smth else happened and it's not there anymore).
So, the problem is: Both sides the same
You can see that both sides scratch the same. So the cables are positioned well, but the shelf is not.
You can see the scratch on plastic cover and peace of fabric glued to the top
I glued some fabric so the top will not wear to much while fixing.
What I found out:
1) The cables are okey. No leaks, no problem with locks etc.
2) The top is aligned well with car.
3) Removed the motor from front part and moved the shelf - didn't work. Shelf doesn't move.
4) Tried to move the motor shaft manually (with Allen key) and I was able to move the shelf 7-8 mm further. So the result was:
7-8 mm gap
Almost okay. So I think that I should adjust hall sensors under the soft top fabric, so the motor will move shelf 1 cm further. But when I applied the pressure with wrench I felt that the pressure is too high (last millimeters have too much friction or something). And motor prooved it - when it was installed I pushed the button to open the roof and on these last millimeters the plastic gear cracked :( So I ordered new nylon gear, but I'm concerned that next time will be the same. Too much pressure there.
seems we have (or I have if yours is OK now) the same/similar problem. how did you get into the sunroof motor? everything I read says 'open at marked spots' ...ok, what or where are they? my problem may be slightly different - I have to push the sunroof back some (very, very small amount) and lift the top up about 15 to 20 degrees then the top works OK while hitting the back roll bar area. going back up I lift the top to a mid point on the roll bar for the top to close.
thanks for your time. hope you have solved your situation.
chuck
Hello everyone!
This is my second attempt to post this problem (first one was deleted by moderator or smth else happened and it's not there anymore).
So, the problem is: Both sides the same
You can see that both sides scratch the same. So the cables are positioned well, but the shelf is not.
You can see the scratch on plastic cover and peace of fabric glued to the top
I glued some fabric so the top will not wear to much while fixing.
What I found out:
1) The cables are okey. No leaks, no problem with locks etc.
2) The top is aligned well with car.
3) Removed the motor from front part and moved the shelf - didn't work. Shelf doesn't move.
4) Tried to move the motor shaft manually (with Allen key) and I was able to move the shelf 7-8 mm further. So the result was:
7-8 mm gap
Almost okay. So I think that I should adjust hall sensors under the soft top fabric, so the motor will move shelf 1 cm further. But when I applied the pressure with wrench I felt that the pressure is too high (last millimeters have too much friction or something). And motor prooved it - when it was installed I pushed the button to open the roof and on these last millimeters the plastic gear cracked :( So I ordered new nylon gear, but I'm concerned that next time will be the same. Too much pressure there.
What am I doing wrong? :(
ive taken apart a few convertibles , maybe your problem is not the top at all , i would loosen the screws on the actual rollbar , push it forward and tighten it up again ...
seems we have (or I have if yours is OK now) the same/similar problem. how did you get into the sunroof motor? everything I read says 'open at marked spots' ...ok, what or where are they? my problem may be slightly different - I have to push the sunroof back some (very, very small amount) and lift the top up about 15 to 20 degrees then the top works OK while hitting the back roll bar area. going back up I lift the top to a mid point on the roll bar for the top to close.
thanks for your time. hope you have solved your situation.
chuck
Try to start a thread about your problem and post a photo or a video with the problem. Community should help!
ive taken apart a few convertibles , maybe your problem is not the top at all , i would loosen the screws on the actual rollbar , push it forward and tighten it up again ...
We tried to do that, but the roll bar sits in smth like bigger tubes. And sits pretty tight. Also there are 6 bolts that you can reach and 2 that you can't. from tis
Look at the picture - there are 6 bolts near the floor - they are okay.
But there are 2 bolts higher - they are covered by roof assembly. It seems you are forced to disassembly half of the car to get them :(
I don't think that the problem is with roll bar. It looks absolutely fine. Smth wrong with roof mechanism.
Check that left and right side of soft top are perfectly adjusted. If not, disassemble front motor, adjust soft top, assemble, check. If it doesn't help:
Disassemble fabric from sides. Adjust hall sensor number 2 and 3. Check. If it doesn't help:
Modify plastic of roll bar (that helped for me). Disassemble, cut a little, assemble, check. If it doesn't help:
Check that left and right side of soft top are perfectly adjusted. If not, disassemble front motor, adjust soft top, assemble, check. If it doesn't help:
Disassemble fabric from sides. Adjust hall sensor number 2 and 3. Check. If it doesn't help:
Modify plastic of roll bar (that helped for me). Disassemble, cut a little, assemble, check. If it doesn't help:
Try local dealer
Thanks! i will try for first to disassemble the roof motor.. maybe this can solve both problems Thanks
Check that left and right side of soft top are perfectly adjusted. If not, disassemble front motor, adjust soft top, assemble, check. If it doesn't help:
Disassemble fabric from sides. Adjust hall sensor number 2 and 3. Check. If it doesn't help:
Modify plastic of roll bar (that helped for me). Disassemble, cut a little, assemble, check. If it doesn't help:
Try local dealer
Sorry.. but how is supposed to push forward the roof? because if i try to push with my hands directly on the roof and is stuck... in both directions...
Last edited by Michael87ita; Jun 19, 2020 at 07:15 AM.
I see scattered questions and links to other threads on roof issues. I'd really like to see a one-stop-shop for roof issues IN the Cabrio forum. I understand it's maintenance but cabbie stuff is hard to find in there.
So, if I've learned anything is that a lot folks have great ideas - few folks are willing to do squat to bring them to reality. I would be happy to do my best to consolidate roof issues into a sticky that we all can contribute to and develop. Please share your thoughts.
I bought an '05 Cabbie this past summer when I was laid off due to Covid. My wife encouraged me to flip some cars to make some cash. I did so. Found an '05 Cabbie, Florida car transferred to PA. Perfect paint and interior, 90k, garage kept in Florida, not driven in PA (family thing). Tires were rotted and top was finicky and rubs on the roll bar. At the $2800 asking price I figured I could flip it with a little work. My wife went with me to pick it up and she decided to drive it home. 10 minutes into the drive home I got a test while at a red light - "Get a job, we are NOT selling this car!" We spent the summer driving that car almost every evening, exploring and just "motoring".
OK, back on subject - I need to get the roof working. I have been researching and I only seem to get bits and pieces with each thread I read or video I watch (the Blare Witch Project video on major roof repair is good but my stomach got queezy...). I convinced my wife to let me pull "Mini" into our unfinished basement through the French doors (just fit). That would give me little excuse to just go downstairs and fiddle with it to get the roof working this winter. I plan to document it but I am new to all this in effort to contribute to a roof repair library in a sticky.
Flame or support - either is fine. Just looking to contribute and learn.
Excellent job listening to the boss keeping that drophead.
Some things to do while working on the top. Replace the coolant expansion tank with a metal one. Install strut tower plates after checking and replacing the bushings if needed. Then look in to KONI special active struts and an upgrade on the rear sway bar, 19 or 22 MM, huge difference in challenging the twisties.
I'll share my four reasons for running up the canvas:
1. It's raining.
2. It's. snowing.
3. My co-pilot is whining about being too hot or cold and I can't hear the supercharger.
4. Some guys are throwing empty beer cans in the back seat and didn't invite me.
BTW We need pictures. Without pictures, it didn't happen.
Glad to help. There's a ton of information herein. It is getting harder, though, to find Gen 1 help, you really have to hunt for it but it's in here.
...and always remember, topless motoring IS motoring at its best.
Glad to help. There's a ton of information herein. It is getting harder, though, to find Gen 1 help, you really have to hunt for it but it's in here.
...and always remember, topless motoring IS motoring at its best.
That's why I'd like to make a place to gather convertible top specific information and DIY's. I'll try once I get info together when I get into adjusting my roof.
Has anyone adjusted the location of the main top bearings? I read in the Bentley that this can be done but it appears to be done to obtain proper gaps at the windows. I wanted to try it to get the roof leading edge away from the roll bar.
No help here with that issue. I ain't a mechanic, got my training in electronics and I've forgotten most of that. There seems to be dang few of the old Gen 1 group still around but they've left a wealth of information. Have you gotten acquainted with the Advanced Search engine? It can pull up a wealth of old posts.
No help here with that issue. I ain't a mechanic, got my training in electronics and I've forgotten most of that. There seems to be dang few of the old Gen 1 group still around but they've left a wealth of information. Have you gotten acquainted with the Advanced Search engine? It can pull up a wealth of old posts.
I have used the advanced search and have spent hours reading threads. I have not been able to find anything on adjusting the Hall sensors. Most repairs got kicked over to the main "Stock Problems" area where they are buried deep. I'll take another swing. Thanks,
Hang tight guys. I left the roof down all summer and promised the wife that I would fix the roof this winter. I’ve been digging in and videoing my findings. I think I’m on to something. My original problem was the roof rubbing the roll bar. Subsequent attempts in fiddling with the cables only rendered the roof to only go as far as the sunroof mode.
I’ll report more soon. I’d like input from the group.
Does anyone have a NEW roof cable/latch assembly? I'd like to get a measurement of the length. My current thinking is that my cables have stretched and I'd like to see what a new one is for comparison.
Also, I cannot find a place to buy just the cables without the latches - anyone aware of a source?
Does anyone have a NEW roof cable/latch assembly? I'd like to get a measurement of the length. My current thinking is that my cables have stretched and I'd like to see what a new one is for comparison. Also, I cannot find a place to buy just the cables without the latches - anyone aware of a source
Mark at ECS measured some new cables for me - thank you! Mine measured exactly the same so - no cable stretch...
While reinstalling the cable and sunroof mechanism I broke the mechanism in half. It takes firm force to get it pushed in and I inadvertently put a twisting force on the piece and she snapped in half. I'll report back when I get a replacement and get back to tuning the roof in.