Replaced both O2 sensors at 96,000 miles in anticipation of 100K maintenance spec, purchased from Atlantic British/MiniCarparts. Both looked good and went in fine, but "Check Engine Light" was on before and after installation. I assumed this was factory progammed interval for other service, so ignored it until 101K miles. Now, during service for defective airbag, dealer informs me that he cannot clear the light due to "aftermarket" O2 sensors, but he will gladly replace them with the "right" ones for $650. materials & labor. Call to Atlantic Mini Car Parts reveals that the sensors are in warranty, and they will ship new ones, and dealer will install for $180, but will not assure that this will fix the problem since these are "inferior O2 aftermarket sensors."

What should I do? I must get an inspection sticker within the next 25 days, and cannot do so until this problem is resolved. Is it worth removing the sensors, clean them and the connectors with choke cleaner and contact cleaner and then reinstalling them? I feel as if the dealer is employing thinly disguised extortion tactics to force me to use his parts and labor. Can there possibly be any significant difference between aftermarket O2 sensors and the OEM?

Clammy

Now at 101,K miles

 

The o2 sensors degrade over time and a performance loss is present before any codes are set.

One good way to determine if the sensor has a slow response typical of aging, is to use an OBD scan tool with graphing capabilities.

Graph the STFT (short term fuel trim). This parameter is displayed in percentages. The sensor should be replaced if the peak to peak is consistently above 8%.

While the manufacturer generally recommends 100k for replacement, deterioration can set in as early as 50k, but let the scan data be your guide.

you may not have a driveability concern at this point; but you will notice an improvement in throttle response, idle quality and fuel efficiency.

 

OK so what was the final conclusion on the universal plugs? i want to fix this problem b/c my car is idling like poop and the fidanza flywheel, spec clutch, and solid mounts allready make it idle a little rough. i found them for $170 a piece locally.

 

Install the oem one.I used the o2 sensors from minicarparts and always had the cel on when back to oem and first crank and the light went off. Was tired of hearing my wife complain about the light.

 

thats what i thought. I have a friend that works at a dealership and can get me parts at cost. well see what he can do for me tomm. other than that classic bmw should be a little cheaper too.

 

closure on this event is as follows.

After replacing the O2 sensors for a second time, and still unable to keep the code of "2097 post-CAT O2 sensor rich bank 1" clear, I returned to the Mini dealer, and had them replace both O2 sensors with OEM sensors, at a cost of $716.98, labor and materials. This cleared the code, and I was able to obtain an inspection sticker. Lesson learned from this experience - "Not all O2 sensors are created equal!"

I love the Mini driving experience, but the maintenance sucks!

 

Your dealer sucks. That's the biggest crock of ***** I've ever heard in my life and I would never go back.

 

yeah that sucks. the install is fairly simple and i had both out today in less than half an hour. i could probably have them completely switched out in less than 45 mine. Even at $250 a piece (the most expensive i have seen) that is still way way too much for the install. Sorry...

 

Hi everyone,

I thought I'd resurrect this thread, as I have a similar problem. My check engine light seems to turn on and off every couple days (on for a day or two, off for a day or two). I've got one of the code readers, and it is telling me that the oxygen sensor is stuck lean.

I haven't noticed any change in engine performance or milage, though, so I'm not sure if the sensor is actually having a problem, or what. I figured before I ordered a new sensor and did the swap, I'd check in here and see if anyone can offer any further wisdom.

Thanks!

 

I, too, will revive this thread.

I'm only at 50K miles, but I have two codes from an OBDII scanner that show O2 Sensor failure.

I took it to a garage for an estimate ($600) and they suggested having them run a diagnostic on it even further claiming that this code can often mean other problems.

Sounds like BS, but is there truth to this?

Is there a DIY thread for this repair?

Where is the cheapest place to get OEM 02 sensors?

I've noticed that my exhaust tip has gotten black really, really quickly lately. Would this indicate that I'm running very rich?

 

black tip = running rich...

First off, be very careful about using anti seize on O2 sensors. The zirconia element is very sensitive to stuff in anti-seize and that can foul them.

Mini only parts is a scam as well, they use Bosch sensors, it's just a matter of finding which one.

FWIW, I'll be doing an O2 sensor swap how to in the next MC2 magazine... Not the one about to be mailed now, but the one after it.

Like others have said, they will degrade before they fail, usually....

Matt

 

Anyone know what the Bosch sensors run?

I found NTK (which is where MINI buys theirs from, allegedly) for $172.00/ea. on Pelican Parts. Anyone know about these?

Darn the bad timing, Matt! Can we get a special access preview?

Matt, I'm a pretty amateur mechanic. I installed my ALTA intake and can do basic things. How would I do with swapping my 02 sensors?

 

the only thing to really worry about is that it gets pretty tight because it's on the exhaust pipe, even with the anti-seize that is used. One can get special O2 sensor sockets that have a slot for the wire so you can get good torque on it. I just checked at Napa and they run from about $7 to well over $20.... You can't just use a box end wrench because of the large connector for the thing... (Note: this doesn't matter that much for the OLD one, as you can cut the wire and use a good box end wrench. Snugging up the new one with the open end shouldn't be too hard.

Of course, the ****-retentive (or just detail oriented) will get the correct socket so they can torque to spec....

Matt

 

I bought the universal Bosch for $35 on Amazon but it's up to $40 something now. It worked fine for my rear to splice but the front I was getting the check engine all the time so I bought the model specific instead for $114 and it's better now. I think it even runs better too but it could just be me being happy there's no check engine. Well so far that is.

 

The Bosch part # is 13878. The before and after Cat part #'s are the same.

 

Just called Classic MINI and they quoted me $215.65/ea. for the O2 sensors.

I also asked about going aftermarket. While I realize he has an interest in my not using aftermarket sensors, the parts guy strongly suggested not using any aftermarket sensors.

Would you consider the Bosch (13878) to be aftermarkets, or can I use them with no trouble?

Does anyone have a link for inexpensive OEM sensors they can share?

This stupid problem is getting expensive quickly...

 

13878

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._ya_oh_product

Universal http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._ya_oh_product

I recommend paying for the oe fit for the front as i stated a couple threads up.

 

At 67,000 the hammer fell on my O2 Senors actually sensor. SES light came on and I didn't notice any difference in the performance of the car. An OBD check gave me code #0130 which is failure of the front sensor. Fair enough... Here is the twist in this scenario. After the initial shock wore off from the price for the OEM sensor I went into research mode. Mind you, this is all taking place last week...the whole week. As the week went on I started to notice the performance fall off. A little at first to complete limp mode by Friday. Thinking back now, my mileage did fall of significantly when the SES light first showed it's glowing waves of splendor. I didn't put much thought to it because I have been running the A/C quit a bit more then I ever had so I attributed the lower mileage to that and my hammer trips to Santa Fe from Albuquerque. Figure full A/C at 100 MPH might chip into MPG. Basically I dropped to a low 26 MPG from the 29 level. Anyway on Wednesday the SES light decides to go back into hibernation and the car wants to follow. By Friday the car decides to play around with the limp mode by toying with the idea to use it and then have second thoughts. I figured that the altitude had alot to do with that. Going from 5800 feet to 8800 tends to thin the air a tad. Again, the SES light had yet to come back on. So yesterday I decided to change both O2 sensors myself. I picked up the Universal Bosch sensor, Part # 15730, from AutoZone for $57 apiece. The Bosch OEM replacement part # is 13878 which can be purchased for $199.99 each. The OEM replacement has the connector that fits the the original in the car. I cut off the connector from the original sensor and put it on the universal and BAM...OEM replacement. The car does run better...much smoother but guess what...the F****** SES decided to rear its ugly head again and light up like Mexico on Cinco De Mayo. Its just there, taunting me....I will prevail. Does the SES light have to be reset or should it have gone off automatically after I replaced the sensors. Why did it decide to go into a peaceful slumber after the initial warning and who the F*** comes up with this S***? A little help here will bring you a gaggle, even a bevy of beautiful, SES free days of motoring. Thank you.[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Jason/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]

 

yeah that's why i posted the front appears to like the a non spliced oem version.

ses light would go away on it's own after a few cycles if it doesn't see any issues.

 

I had both O2 sensors fail at 39,000. I replaced both with the Bosch universals. I am at 43,000 and havn't seen the code again for the downstream sensor but get the check engine light for the upstream all the time. If I clear the code the SES light will stay off for several hundred miles then reappear. Usually when it begins to rain. Go figure.

I haven't noticed any change in mileage or performance, just the light. I will eventually replace the front one with an OEM to see if that makes a difference.

I have only had this car for about three months, the light is frustrating, but I think I am getting use to it.

TomH

 

Thanks rcantu and TomH.

 

So how do you clear the code after you replace the O2 sensor?

Thanks,

Ric.

 

I think most code READERs have a function to clear. (mine does - so buy or borrow one .)

 

ScanGuage II

BTW: The O2 Universal Bosch Sensor listed in first part of this thread from Amazon.com...... IS NOT for Mini Coopers.....once the car info in plugged into it, the data comes up that it will not fit...

Never heard of a BOSCH O2 sensor going at 30-35K miles.....There are no wearable parts. It really sounds more like some folks are getting bad info from a mechanic and thus getting ripped....my 2 cents....

 

Just drive the car and the code will clear itself!

If not there is still a problem.