R50/53 The $$$ of applying decals
Coordinator :: Nashville–Middle Tennessee MINI Club
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 500
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I used 3M tape on the beltline. Everything else was either painted or powder coated. Keep an eye on minicc.com maybe you can have a little get away weekend the next time we do a mod party. 
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Emmitsburg, MD
Jim
?
So I went to a consultation at an auto body shop today for 2 sets of graphics that I'm interested in getting on my mini. The first graphic is a silver U stripe for my boot (to match my bonnet), I already have the graphic thanks to Mike at Aestheticreations.net...I've got a sample image in my gallery if you want to see what it looks like. The second graphics are some silver stripes for the passenger and drivers side of the Mini. The total install quote was 264.00
. The guy was talking about removing the back panel of my Mini to install the boot stripe, which of course make me slightly nervous
. Has anybody else had graphics professionaly installed and does this sound like a good price or am I getting ripped off?? And how about this removal of my boot panel, that has me a little worried...
. The guy was talking about removing the back panel of my Mini to install the boot stripe, which of course make me slightly nervous . Has anybody else had graphics professionaly installed and does this sound like a good price or am I getting ripped off?? And how about this removal of my boot panel, that has me a little worried...Any bets this same guy tells the ladies to change the air in their tires from summer air to winter air............
Too bad Aesthetic creations does not form a list of installers in the USA like Tire Rack has for their customers.............
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Pottstown, PA
That's ridiculous. I installed side stripes on my car, having never done it before, in 2-3 hours.(most of it measuring, taping, re-measuring, moving tape and measuring some more...must say I did a fine job!) A pro should be able to do it in a fraction of the time. And I have no idea why they would need to remove any panels...
Even if you can't find much better of a price (though you should be able to), I would look elsewhere for someplace that at least seems to know what they're doing.
Even if you can't find much better of a price (though you should be able to), I would look elsewhere for someplace that at least seems to know what they're doing.
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,326
Likes: 6
From: PA
The only thing I've used the wet-install method for is interior decals because they go in tricky places.
Now, for a full roof graphic with sunroof, you'd be insane to try to install that yourself. But just the sunroof graphic, I think you can do that yourself fairly easily, wet or dry. If you have doubts about your ability to do it dry, then don't.
BTW... I wonder if jbewley realized he/she was digging up a two year old thread.
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Emmitsburg, MD
Faster, less mess, and, IMO, easier. Easier because it's faster and less messy.
The only thing I've used the wet-install method for is interior decals because they go in tricky places.
Now, for a full roof graphic with sunroof, you'd be insane to try to install that yourself. But just the sunroof graphic, I think you can do that yourself fairly easily, wet or dry. If you have doubts about your ability to do it dry, then don't.
BTW... I wonder if jbewley realized he/she was digging up a two year old thread.
The only thing I've used the wet-install method for is interior decals because they go in tricky places.
Now, for a full roof graphic with sunroof, you'd be insane to try to install that yourself. But just the sunroof graphic, I think you can do that yourself fairly easily, wet or dry. If you have doubts about your ability to do it dry, then don't.
BTW... I wonder if jbewley realized he/she was digging up a two year old thread.
Jim (as in "He")
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Council Bluffs Iowa
Thanks for the comeback. I did find another thread with install instructions link that recomends only using dry as warranty is void if done wet and glue is not as effective once its wet. It sounds pretty straight forward so I will give it a shot dry.
Coordinator :: Nashville–Middle Tennessee MINI Club
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
Ha ha imagine that, I came out of the woodwork thanks to the emails I get from here when a thread wakes up.
I do a lot of graphics for my customers and the checkered board sunroof graphic has become very popular. I use wet applications and would recommend that for anyone without lots of experience because you can slide it around until you have it just right. You can use a little baby shampoo (maybe 6 drops) in a spray bottle full of water.
I use wet application even if the directions call for dry app.
I do a lot of graphics for my customers and the checkered board sunroof graphic has become very popular. I use wet applications and would recommend that for anyone without lots of experience because you can slide it around until you have it just right. You can use a little baby shampoo (maybe 6 drops) in a spray bottle full of water.
I use wet application even if the directions call for dry app.
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Council Bluffs Iowa
John, Thanks for the input. I have now changed my mind again. I'm going to give it a shot this weekend and until this minute figured I better follow directions. I am much more comfortable with a touch of water because it is a little more forgiving and you can tweak it if necessary. I'de hate to get it on crocked and then have to live with it.
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Emmitsburg, MD
Ha ha imagine that, I came out of the woodwork thanks to the emails I get from here when a thread wakes up.
I do a lot of graphics for my customers and the checkered board sunroof graphic has become very popular. I use wet applications and would recommend that for anyone without lots of experience because you can slide it around until you have it just right. You can use a little baby shampoo (maybe 6 drops) in a spray bottle full of water.
I use wet application even if the directions call for dry app.
I do a lot of graphics for my customers and the checkered board sunroof graphic has become very popular. I use wet applications and would recommend that for anyone without lots of experience because you can slide it around until you have it just right. You can use a little baby shampoo (maybe 6 drops) in a spray bottle full of water.
I use wet application even if the directions call for dry app.
What are your thoughts since you have done many of these?
Jim
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, OH
Be careful with wet applications, some roof graphics are printed on vinyl with an air-egress adhesive. You'll know it when you see it, it'll have a cross-hatch pattern on the sticky side. Well, the most common, 3M 180C, will have a cross hath pattern, there are other variations of this vinyl, some have tiny lines, others have a snakeskin-looking pattern. Anyway, if the vinyl has a pattern like that on the adhesive, technically you are not supposed to wet apply it. It can be done but it normally voids the vinyl manufacturer's warranty.
That said, vinyl like this is meant to be applied dry and if applied dry will have some of the benefits of wet application without some of the associated headaches. Most air-egress vinyl has a lower initial tack than regular vinyl, so if you get it positioned in the wrong place, snap it back up in a swift, quick motion (don't jerk it up so hard you rip the vinyl, but don't pull it too slowly either, you'll stretch it). The pattern in the adhesive are air channels. As you're applying, if you get air trapped under the vinyl, you will e able to wrk out the bubbles by carefully pushing them. You still need to use care when applying, you can't work out all bubbles so try to avoid them as you apply, but unlike regular vinyl, you can work out most small to moderate ones. This vinyl is also meant to be stretched and pulled and can take quite a bit of heat. If you have access to a heat gun or trigger-start blow torch, you can apply a bit of heat to help get the vinyl to conform to compound curves. If you over-stretch the vinyl or get wrinkles in it, remove it, let it hang freely, and hit it with some heat. It will shrink back up to it's original state. Let it cool completely befre handing.
Once the install is done, use your heat gun or torch to "post heat' for graphic on the vehicle. Not too much heat, but you want to get it pretty hot. This will reset the vinyl's memory to it's current shape, and will help set the adhesive. Doing this goes a long way towards preventing future failures or lifting, and will also polish out any scratches you get in the laminate during installation.
It takes some practice working with this vinyl and it can be intimidating not having the wet application crutch, but once you get used to it it's really easy, much easier than applying wet. All vehicle wraps are done this way, all of us professional installers use these types of vinyl with dry apps. Just takes a bit of practice. Don't let the vinyl know you're afraid of it!
That said, vinyl like this is meant to be applied dry and if applied dry will have some of the benefits of wet application without some of the associated headaches. Most air-egress vinyl has a lower initial tack than regular vinyl, so if you get it positioned in the wrong place, snap it back up in a swift, quick motion (don't jerk it up so hard you rip the vinyl, but don't pull it too slowly either, you'll stretch it). The pattern in the adhesive are air channels. As you're applying, if you get air trapped under the vinyl, you will e able to wrk out the bubbles by carefully pushing them. You still need to use care when applying, you can't work out all bubbles so try to avoid them as you apply, but unlike regular vinyl, you can work out most small to moderate ones. This vinyl is also meant to be stretched and pulled and can take quite a bit of heat. If you have access to a heat gun or trigger-start blow torch, you can apply a bit of heat to help get the vinyl to conform to compound curves. If you over-stretch the vinyl or get wrinkles in it, remove it, let it hang freely, and hit it with some heat. It will shrink back up to it's original state. Let it cool completely befre handing.
Once the install is done, use your heat gun or torch to "post heat' for graphic on the vehicle. Not too much heat, but you want to get it pretty hot. This will reset the vinyl's memory to it's current shape, and will help set the adhesive. Doing this goes a long way towards preventing future failures or lifting, and will also polish out any scratches you get in the laminate during installation.
It takes some practice working with this vinyl and it can be intimidating not having the wet application crutch, but once you get used to it it's really easy, much easier than applying wet. All vehicle wraps are done this way, all of us professional installers use these types of vinyl with dry apps. Just takes a bit of practice. Don't let the vinyl know you're afraid of it!
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Emmitsburg, MD
Be careful with wet applications, some roof graphics are printed on vinyl with an air-egress adhesive. You'll know it when you see it, it'll have a cross-hatch pattern on the sticky side. Well, the most common, 3M 180C, will have a cross hath pattern, there are other variations of this vinyl, some have tiny lines, others have a snakeskin-looking pattern. Anyway, if the vinyl has a pattern like that on the adhesive, technically you are not supposed to wet apply it. It can be done but it normally voids the vinyl manufacturer's warranty.
That said, vinyl like this is meant to be applied dry and if applied dry will have some of the benefits of wet application without some of the associated headaches. Most air-egress vinyl has a lower initial tack than regular vinyl, so if you get it positioned in the wrong place, snap it back up in a swift, quick motion (don't jerk it up so hard you rip the vinyl, but don't pull it too slowly either, you'll stretch it). The pattern in the adhesive are air channels. As you're applying, if you get air trapped under the vinyl, you will e able to wrk out the bubbles by carefully pushing them. You still need to use care when applying, you can't work out all bubbles so try to avoid them as you apply, but unlike regular vinyl, you can work out most small to moderate ones. This vinyl is also meant to be stretched and pulled and can take quite a bit of heat. If you have access to a heat gun or trigger-start blow torch, you can apply a bit of heat to help get the vinyl to conform to compound curves. If you over-stretch the vinyl or get wrinkles in it, remove it, let it hang freely, and hit it with some heat. It will shrink back up to it's original state. Let it cool completely befre handing.
Once the install is done, use your heat gun or torch to "post heat' for graphic on the vehicle. Not too much heat, but you want to get it pretty hot. This will reset the vinyl's memory to it's current shape, and will help set the adhesive. Doing this goes a long way towards preventing future failures or lifting, and will also polish out any scratches you get in the laminate during installation.
It takes some practice working with this vinyl and it can be intimidating not having the wet application crutch, but once you get used to it it's really easy, much easier than applying wet. All vehicle wraps are done this way, all of us professional installers use these types of vinyl with dry apps. Just takes a bit of practice. Don't let the vinyl know you're afraid of it!
That said, vinyl like this is meant to be applied dry and if applied dry will have some of the benefits of wet application without some of the associated headaches. Most air-egress vinyl has a lower initial tack than regular vinyl, so if you get it positioned in the wrong place, snap it back up in a swift, quick motion (don't jerk it up so hard you rip the vinyl, but don't pull it too slowly either, you'll stretch it). The pattern in the adhesive are air channels. As you're applying, if you get air trapped under the vinyl, you will e able to wrk out the bubbles by carefully pushing them. You still need to use care when applying, you can't work out all bubbles so try to avoid them as you apply, but unlike regular vinyl, you can work out most small to moderate ones. This vinyl is also meant to be stretched and pulled and can take quite a bit of heat. If you have access to a heat gun or trigger-start blow torch, you can apply a bit of heat to help get the vinyl to conform to compound curves. If you over-stretch the vinyl or get wrinkles in it, remove it, let it hang freely, and hit it with some heat. It will shrink back up to it's original state. Let it cool completely befre handing.
Once the install is done, use your heat gun or torch to "post heat' for graphic on the vehicle. Not too much heat, but you want to get it pretty hot. This will reset the vinyl's memory to it's current shape, and will help set the adhesive. Doing this goes a long way towards preventing future failures or lifting, and will also polish out any scratches you get in the laminate during installation.
It takes some practice working with this vinyl and it can be intimidating not having the wet application crutch, but once you get used to it it's really easy, much easier than applying wet. All vehicle wraps are done this way, all of us professional installers use these types of vinyl with dry apps. Just takes a bit of practice. Don't let the vinyl know you're afraid of it!
Thanks,
Jim
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, OH
lol, no, sorry. But I guarantee there's quite a few pros in your area who can do this for you if you don't want to. Just look for any sign or graphics shop that does alot of or specializes in vehicle graphics or wraps. Shouldn't cost too much either. I think the last mini roof graphic I installed took me about an hour to do by myself (this was before i even owned a mini). Our hourly rate for installationlabor is $85 so I'd think anywhere from $70-150 would be about what it should cost to have it installed. With two experienced installers, it's a 30 minute job. If you were near me I'd do it for free after hours though if you just bought me a pizza. (-:
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Emmitsburg, MD
lol, no, sorry. But I guarantee there's quite a few pros in your area who can do this for you if you don't want to. Just look for any sign or graphics shop that does alot of or specializes in vehicle graphics or wraps. Shouldn't cost too much either. I think the last mini roof graphic I installed took me about an hour to do by myself (this was before i even owned a mini). Our hourly rate for installationlabor is $85 so I'd think anywhere from $70-150 would be about what it should cost to have it installed. With two experienced installers, it's a 30 minute job. If you were near me I'd do it for free after hours though if you just bought me a pizza. (-:
Jim
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,326
Likes: 6
From: PA
Let me know if you're interested, I'll get you his address and phone number.
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Emmitsburg, MD
Hey, Jim... if you don't mind the long drive, there's a great shop up in Whitemarsh, MD. That's just outside of Baltimore on the NE side of the city. Rob, the owner, did a great job on my roof (full roof graphic with sunroof... tough job) and charged half of what every other quote was.
Let me know if you're interested, I'll get you his address and phone number.
Let me know if you're interested, I'll get you his address and phone number.
I know that some come in seperate sections that go directly on the roof but mine is from Mike at AC and is one piece that covers the entire roof, wrapping over and down to the rain gutters. When I saw it I got cold feet about trying it myself.
My knowledge is limited, I will admit, and it could be that the first type is the delear option and all the rest are like the one from AC.
I just want to be sure that it is done correctly and your recomendation of Rob is a real plus.
Was the one he did for you the one piece type?
Jim
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,326
Likes: 6
From: PA
That's the place.
He's done work for a lot of the MINI owners from DC Metro MINIs.
And yes, mine was from Mike at AC and it was a one-piece roof graphic. And if you try to install that yourself, you are either a lunatic or really brave. Or both.
Mine has been installed for about a year and a half now and it still looks the same as it did the day it was installed.
The only flaw on mine is a tiny little "wrinkle" near the antenna. Evidently, that's a tough part of the job. But nobody but me has ever even noticed it and I only notice it when I'm washing/detailing.
He's done work for a lot of the MINI owners from DC Metro MINIs.
And yes, mine was from Mike at AC and it was a one-piece roof graphic. And if you try to install that yourself, you are either a lunatic or really brave. Or both.
Mine has been installed for about a year and a half now and it still looks the same as it did the day it was installed.
The only flaw on mine is a tiny little "wrinkle" near the antenna. Evidently, that's a tough part of the job. But nobody but me has ever even noticed it and I only notice it when I'm washing/detailing.
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Emmitsburg, MD
That's the place.
He's done work for a lot of the MINI owners from DC Metro MINIs.
And yes, mine was from Mike at AC and it was a one-piece roof graphic. And if you try to install that yourself, you are either a lunatic or really brave. Or both.
Mine has been installed for about a year and a half now and it still looks the same as it did the day it was installed.
The only flaw on mine is a tiny little "wrinkle" near the antenna. Evidently, that's a tough part of the job. But nobody but me has ever even noticed it and I only notice it when I'm washing/detailing.
He's done work for a lot of the MINI owners from DC Metro MINIs.
And yes, mine was from Mike at AC and it was a one-piece roof graphic. And if you try to install that yourself, you are either a lunatic or really brave. Or both.
Mine has been installed for about a year and a half now and it still looks the same as it did the day it was installed.
The only flaw on mine is a tiny little "wrinkle" near the antenna. Evidently, that's a tough part of the job. But nobody but me has ever even noticed it and I only notice it when I'm washing/detailing.
Thanks for the feed back
Jim
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,326
Likes: 6
From: PA
You're welcome.
And yeah, I don't think I could miss your MINI even from a mile away. So if you see a CR/Checkered Cooper, a PW/Black Cooper, or a JB MCS Convertible, you can give me a big wave and a honk back.
BTW, I'm not sure if Speed Design is still in White Marsh. I googled them and they also show up with an address in Middle River, MD, which is a few miles from White Marsh.
Oh well... you can get their address when you call.
Can't wait to see your pics !
And yeah, I don't think I could miss your MINI even from a mile away. So if you see a CR/Checkered Cooper, a PW/Black Cooper, or a JB MCS Convertible, you can give me a big wave and a honk back.
BTW, I'm not sure if Speed Design is still in White Marsh. I googled them and they also show up with an address in Middle River, MD, which is a few miles from White Marsh.
Oh well... you can get their address when you call.
Can't wait to see your pics !
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Emmitsburg, MD
That's the place.
He's done work for a lot of the MINI owners from DC Metro MINIs.
And yes, mine was from Mike at AC and it was a one-piece roof graphic. And if you try to install that yourself, you are either a lunatic or really brave. Or both.
Mine has been installed for about a year and a half now and it still looks the same as it did the day it was installed.
The only flaw on mine is a tiny little "wrinkle" near the antenna. Evidently, that's a tough part of the job. But nobody but me has ever even noticed it and I only notice it when I'm washing/detailing.
He's done work for a lot of the MINI owners from DC Metro MINIs.
And yes, mine was from Mike at AC and it was a one-piece roof graphic. And if you try to install that yourself, you are either a lunatic or really brave. Or both.
Mine has been installed for about a year and a half now and it still looks the same as it did the day it was installed.
The only flaw on mine is a tiny little "wrinkle" near the antenna. Evidently, that's a tough part of the job. But nobody but me has ever even noticed it and I only notice it when I'm washing/detailing.
Did Rob remove the antena on your 2006?
Jim